Building Materials and Construction Technology
Byggfunderingar2: [citat] Thanks. Do you mean aesthetically the nicest or that I place it in the way I think it will cup? That is, look at tendencies in which direction it pulls?
Brote123: Hi! Bringing this thread up again. Anyone with more experiences? Thinking it could be a solution for the summer cabin smell where you don't want to pay to replace impregnated beams.
TorOdd: [citat] It already is. But since the wind blows freely under the entire foundation, it gets cold even though it doesn't draft in.
Raskus: [citat] I installed the same type of panel in a sauna, but nailed it with brads instead.
jan.isaksson: There are courses available to learn how to apply microcement, though I'm not sure if these are worthwhile. Obviously, one can't apply it as evenly as in a showroom where professionals have been at work. I often find that YouTube is misleading and everything looks so easy set to pleasant music, etc. Don't be too hard on yourself. Next time it will be easier and more even!
Suvi5700: [citat] You'll have to fix the electricity before you seal it up. And maybe insulate around the pipe.
Alek Kinkyparrow: I’d pull up the plastic mat or at least lift a corner to see if moisture or old grime got trapped under it, because that can stink for years. I’ve also aired out stubborn smells by scrubbing the surfaces with vinegar water and then burning https://nothingbutscents.com/collections/sage for a bit; I’ve found the mix of cleaning and smoke helps clear out that lingering funk.
Intet: I can imagine that. In that case, plaster should probably work fine.
sturnus: A complete wall (wind and vapor barrier sheathing, panels/what kind? plywood/OSB/gypsum? insulation?) or just the structure. And building a freestanding wall, or replacing an existing one or filling in a structure? c-c and stud dimensions? height? windows/doors? and more...
Dr Benz: For those interested, I installed regular fire-resistant bricks that were plastered in and turned out great. There are pictures in other of my threads.
Krish8926: It was aerated concrete. Used aerated concrete screws without plugs and now I'm done :)
TrumJalle: For me, it ended with removing all the old timber beams, digging out to create some distance between the ground and new joists. Installed new joists and trossbotten and filled it with wood fiber insulation. Some of the new joists I could attach to the sill, and some had to be floating and instead held together with noggins and supported against concrete slabs on the ground. Right or wrong, but it
Mackman: På plan 1. Våningen över källaren så skall vi lägga klinker och golvvärme i köket. Bjälklaget är 120mm betong. Reglarna vilar på betongen. Mellan reglarna är det utfyllt med slaggsten Är lite villrådig hur jag skall göra den nya golvkonstruktionen. ligger 600cc och det känns väl långt att lägga spårad golvspån. Lutar åt att ta bort alla reglar och gjuta med eps betong och
pontus-: Small update: I had a company here for consultation, and there will be a floating joist structure (on adjustable feet), creating an air gap over the entire slab. Then, two smaller openings will be made to the crawlspace in the adjacent room to circulate the air around. I will use Hunton windproof boards between the joists as the "subfloor." In case anyone else happens to encounter the same
Hybro: Old thread. I extended the drill by a meter with a round bar I had lying around.
Skoog77: Hello. Is there anyone who has Ikea Askersund dark brown cover panel or filler piece? All sizes are of interest, even if they are cut into. Ikea stopped selling these a few years ago and has none left in stock. Need them for some minor changes in the kitchen.
Oldboy: You need to create an air gap between the plastic sheet ("underroof") and the insulation. The plastic sheet must be able to hang down in the middle between the rafters so that any intruding water can drain away without staying at the battens of the tiles.
NyKarin: [citat] They looked good! I have a tarp in the carport, eyelets before that have torn off. Found tent clips that are bigger. Will take a trip to Biltema and replace the ones I have!
jawen: [citat] It's the metal mixture in your screws that hasn't "tolerated" the humidity change that occurs in a barn over the year, since your lightweight concrete/Siporex/blåbetong blocks release lime, silica, etc. that react with "poor" metal mixtures. In the past, when clip nails were used in lightweight concrete blocks, the nails were always of high quality. Back then, the nail was dipped in a
Sviddeb: Hello. Unfortunately, there are no standing steel studs. I have searched with a stud finder and also with a magnet. The only "standing" thing is the thin batten to which the drywall is attached.
Kapsyl: Looks like regular standard T-sections as Allt Går says. Measure them, show your pictures and ask a local metal workshop for a quote and you'll probably get it done for a reasonable amount.
Gustav Leonk: [citat] Thanks for the help!
matthiask: [citat] Thanks for the answer! Found an alternative solution. It is cast between the floors. It's a bit difficult to explain, but basically, I drilled diagonally down from a wall on the middle floor and came out in the ceiling of this room on the lower floor. This wall on the middle floor is shared with the room I wanted the network outlet in, but I drilled "from the other side" to get the right
Semiproffset: One idea could be to fill up half with lecakulor that you pack. On top of that, you then lay a fiber cloth so that the EPS cement doesn't fill in between the lecakulor. Then smooth the entire surface with flow screed.