Building Materials and Construction Technology
sturnus: How do you plan to solve this when the plywood is 90 cm wide and the plaster is 120 cm wide? Besides, the boards are often laid crosswise. Manufacturers are looking out for their pockets by trying to sell their "one-size-fits-all" systems. As I mentioned, the plywood is a structural element in this case, so plaster can be attached to it. If you have any justification for the risks of this
cpalm: [citat] I had the same thought, but... It's frightening how many exclusive and high-end materials are thrown away at the dump and replaced with the cheapest possible stuff.
Xirit: [citat] I think it's nicer with narrower sidelights.
klaskarlsson: [citat] That sounds like a good idea. Old log houses aren't always airtight. It doesn't cost much to add wind barrier fabric before you install battens and nail the siding either.
HammerGuuurl: Sure, it would be possible to make the balcony bigger, but I wouldn't trust that it would hold without adding some extra support, like pillars in the new balcony corners.
Anders.Pettersson: Hello! I've probably always dreamed of being a time capsule to the thread creator and appearing on Google :D The car is still around and has been modified in various stages, mostly on the inside! Basically, it became: Siliconed/sealed/repaired all strange drill holes and damages, then built frames on the inside, insulated with 5 cm XPS, then 4 mm pine plywood. The kitchen got some Ikea doors but
Lerhuset: [citat] Chimney with its own flue down to the 4 large rooms. That means you can have a fire in all rooms, but today we only use the old masonry stove in the living room (with doors like a tiled stove) and the large cast iron stove in the kitchen. 2 rooms are left cold during winter. It has become extremely expensive to heat the whole house with electricity, and it requires a lot of work with
flying_c: Doesn't B-bruk spontaneously sound very harsh when the substrate is so loose? It's so loose that I probably have to take it easy with the chopping, if I keep knocking until it stops crumbling, there might not be much left of the wall.
Stefan1972: [citat] sure, that's one aspect but there are plenty of people who have really old houses and proudly say so while they have renovated it to Myresjö standard circa 2020.....
Liljeros: I would set the stud 5mm from the existing wall and only anchor to the floor and ceiling. Then no acoustic stud is needed as they are primarily meant to break the connection between the sides in a standard wall with drywall on 2 sides.
BirgitS: It sounds like damage that the insurance might partially cover. Have you been in contact with the insurance company? They usually want to send someone out for inspection before you start tearing things down too much.
Oldboy: As an alternative to 220 mm, 45x95 / 45x120 / 45x145 should work excellently. Blocks should be placed underneath at appropriate intervals. Bridging can be in the same dimensions (95/120/145). It shouldn't be a question of any significant loads weighing down on just the 25 cm outside the last floor joist, right? With blocks underneath, it's easier to get the right height if the basement wall is
Oldboy: If it is well-insulated, it should be covered with plastic (vapor barrier or retarder of some sort). It is only needed against cold exterior surfaces, i.e., exterior walls and roof, (and should be on the warm side). Otherwise, no vapor barrier/retarder is needed. However, it is always critical to ensure that it is airtight everywhere so no drafts can occur anywhere. It is always challenging to
Charliegrön: [citat] Hi, I just read a report. What did you build on the floor under your holiday home? I have the same problem.
Adam12345678: Hi, Has anyone here installed acoustic panels around windows and how did you handle the reveals and trim or if you didn't use any trim please send a picture 😃
neo11: What, are you using a diesel heater several days in advance? I don't know if you've poured. But plastic is placed so that the moisture doesn't escape. Not needed in your case. I know many balconies that have been poured when it's 2-3 degrees below zero without problems, the concrete generates heat. I would say it's enough with zero or a few degrees above during pouring and the first day. After
Krish8926: [citat] Wow, thanks! It was so simple. I didn't use the gap to fit the claws before, just the screws! So silly of me. Now I have to try to cancel the appointment with the electrician. I got a quote of 700kr to fix that little thing.
Kardan79: [citat] I'm too tired to respond to that without payment.
Henrik 75: [citat] Feel free to use a sleeve too, then it should hold.
Hep: Dewalten is still the first choice for many DIY enthusiasts, so it's risk-free to choose. If you have the budget and desire, you can later upgrade with a spiral cutter that provides a clear improvement over regular steel. Not free exactly, but you do have a birthday too, right?
Elspet: https://www.blocket.se/18000268 Saw this ad on Blocket a while ago, maybe worth checking out?
egge80: There are many ways that will look perfectly fine, but I would have done it this way. I've done it a few times and it looks good! As a final touch, putty and paint the trim.
Stefan N: Really wouldn’t have put silicone or anything else, just clean up the worst before you do the final touch-up.
Byggfunderingar2: [citat] Thanks. Do you mean aesthetically the nicest or that I place it in the way I think it will cup? That is, look at tendencies in which direction it pulls?