Building Materials and Construction Technology
maah: Sounds like a reasonable approach. But in the gap between the buildings, the black part in the picture, is it open straight down to the free air? In that case, you need to insulate and make it windproof from the outside.
maah: The trusses are not designed to support a floor, so you shouldn't build anything to store things up there. Get rid of the stuff you intended to store instead, so you don't have to waste energy on it :) You can build a simple walkway in the middle compartment. Screw 45x95 studs and lay rough boarding on them to have a simple walkway.
maah: The normal is vertical nail battens and a mouse band at the bottom. I don't want to categorically claim that it's built incorrectly, but it doesn't look right.
Byggnadsvårdarn: [citat] [citat] Since creosote is carcinogenic and often black (and found in some tar), it is wise to take a sample.
lnilsson: [citat] If it's just sealing strips, I might wait until the temperatures are above freezing, it's not urgent, but you can save quite a bit by addressing drafts and it's quick to replace sealing strips. However, if it's something with the door, like it's hanging incorrectly or something like that, you might want to wait until it's a bit warmer, as it can take some time to fix such issues.
fribygg: I would probably take the opportunity to add or have more insulation added.
Viktor.J: [citat] haha there are actually several houses with concrete joists :) and the combination with underfloor heating is most common with wood. But yes, then it's all good.
sturnus: Eftersom detta är ett vattenbaserat värmesystem, behöver det finnas ett ganska tjockt lager ovanför röret. Personally, I'd use 3-4 cm thick Fine Concrete with 2 mm reinforcement. Then, I'd apply 1 cm of Flytspackel to even out the level and tiles.
Robbban77: Feels like there are quite a few of us now interested in the same thing and images, I want to raise my ceiling from 205cm to at least 230 - 240cm in height :) However, due to a gym build.
tergo: should go, lay with staggered joints https://www.paroc.com/sv-se/products/paroc-was-35tt
Psan: I went ahead with the regular universal plug from Biltema, it's solid as a rock now.
O: [citat] You may have misunderstood me. It's not a matter of two alternatives but of two individually (very) effective methods that can be combined to achieve even better results.
LeoVix: [citat] When we moved in, it sloped a lot in the red area on the upper floor. It was a bit like walking downhill into the bathroom. The carpenter leveled it as best as he could with tretex boards that we laid floor foam and click flooring on. It wasn't as stable as we had hoped, a bit "spongy" and unstable, but better than before.
Jonawullt: Hello everyone! Thanks for the tips! It took a while before I got the chance to try, but I made an attempt this weekend. I started with a drill without hammer action until I reached the brick. Then I drilled with hammer action and slightly deeper than the plug. It went smoothly! We'll see if I just got lucky or if it holds up.
andreascarlsson: There is also something called "Klackfoder". For example: https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/byggmaterial-traprodukter/traprodukter/listverk/foder/21x43-klackfoder-vit-2-2m-12mm-fals-furu-raw-10-861102104322
Zenon: Interesting reading, I'm considering adding insulation to my existing 70's 2-glass windows, either with an internal plastic sheet between the current panes since my windows can be separated, noting that there are convenient solutions for this. Or buying cassettes to mount indoors and externally. Those of you who have had them for at least one winter, if you haven't done any measurements, could
Cider: So fun! How lucky you are! Image-google for yxskaft, hammarskaft, and more and for skaftkil Look at the tools being sold - feel them - weigh them in your hand Visit museums that have older tools Start by copying a good handle that you (or a friend) have at home.
largab: I agree with AI. You don't want humid indoor air to reach the cold wall.
Kardan79: [citat] Is this about putting up interior walls? You haven't even hinted at that. 😅 I would go with c/c 450mm and 900mm boards. I'm too old to drag around 1200mm boards. C/c 1200mm sounds very shaky. At least go with c/c 900mm. Keep in mind that there won't be tailored insulation (not the right size).
bennibenasi: [citat] Yes, I understand that drainage will need to be done in the future. However, I'm considering how urgent it is when only one room is affected. If we sand and paint, maybe it will last for two more years? This is solely a financial question right now. Is it not possible to drain only the walls outside this room? I read somewhere that you don't need to drain around the whole house at once,
Se Rach: [citat] How has this project gone? What was the result?
Lunkan123: Thank you for the response, I have ordered a väggutredning.
hydrolift: [citat] We have ordered a few times from bygghemma and its "clones". And it has worked out quite okay, even with an item (stupränna) that had become dented during delivery.
Beckett: Hej Jag har fått rekommendationen att riva ett helt badrum med kakel och klinker för att komma åt att torka ena hörnet i rummet då väggarna är fuktskadade (nedre del) och lite golv under tätskick (mätt från rummet underifrån). Väggarna består av siporex och golvet är betong (vet inte om det är samma). Men se bild, måste jag verkligen riva hela badrummet för detta (det röda är
tobbe6505: Make one last attempt. Is there no one in here who can give me some help? Would really be appreciated 😊
klaskarlsson: [citat] That definitely looks like it's part of the floor joists (roof trusses)