Building Materials and Construction Technology
JoGi: ...another tip is apparently to grind off the head of the nail with the angle grinder and then pry up the board. Well, I haven't reached that stage yet... Right now it's groundwork (drainage), pipe replacement (water and sewage), and general demolition... excavator, shovel, crowbar, rock drill, dynamite, big-freaking-Hilti, reciprocating saw you name it... all the crap has to go! / JoGi
andas: Looking at the technical description, you can see that the thermal conductivity is 0.004, which is 10 times better than normal insulation materials such as mineral wool. This is likely some kind of special material that was once developed for special purposes, perhaps space/submarine/or similar confined spaces. I think it's hard to just make up a thermal conductivity, as it's easy to verify at a
andas: Hello! You must have long finished with the vapor barrier ;-) but for others who might be wondering, I just want to say that it IS important that the vapor barrier is tight. Especially in sensitive areas for condensation, such as thermal bridges and other places where the risk of condensation problems is higher (cold construction, a lot of steam in the air, sensitive materials, etc.). The reason
KarlXII: Ahem...this was urgent in January...you can drop it now ;D
Fredrik_Jansson: Hello This doesn't concern a new house but rather an old one that my partner and I are interested in. It will be expanded, and it is currently bricked. In my eyes, there's nothing uglier than people adding on to a brick house with wood paneling, so I/we are considering plastering the house and painting it in a nice color. There might also be a problem finding the same color/type of brick today as
Fredrik_G: Hello We are in the process of remodeling and would need some Heby roof tiles. I saw that you had some. Would you consider selling a few to me? I have single-row ones and can arrange transport without any problems. Thanks for any help Best regards Fredrik Grönlund 0708-465260
Eld: It's not an entirely unreasonable price compared to the quotes I've received for renovating my house. Just a bit on the high side.
Snowblade: Maybe then go there myself. If possible. Maybe it's possible to buy from the factory?
Lotta och Roger: Hello! Got a quote on brick, but can't remember... it's somewhere among all the papers :-/ Anyway, we're going to have brick, because I want to avoid painting during an entire vacation... a bit exaggerated maybe ::) It would have been easier for my husband who is a carpenter with a wooden facade, but it's different how you want it.
KarlXII: Yep, adjustable beam hangers can be purchased, among others, at Coop, which currently has them on special offer. I bought some for the patio, they are a joy to work with since you can adjust more than 15 cm in height afterwards.
HansA: Tips on website: http://www.malander.fi/ EPS -valuharkut Kuvia There are quite a few pictures there, it probably also contains a lot of useful information, but my knowledge of Finnish is minimal. ps. www.dorocell.se also works
PA: Plastic is definitely not as hard. I haven't really stood statically for long periods (like you do in front of a stove or while doing the dishes) on a wooden floor. You can look at it in different ways. If you drop something, tiles are definitely harder than wood (impulse), but when you're standing, it involves a different kind of hardness. A static hardness. I'll have to test it sometime. From
Bob_the_builder: 900-width is usually called Ergo (product name from Gyproc) or something similar. They are simply more ERGOnomic to work with. The downside is that you have to space the studs closer (approx. 450).
David: Thanks for the answers. We bought thin firebricks to place in a layer closest to the fire anyway. Cost a lot! >:( Above the chimney, we will run frost-free. Otherwise, we will go straight with the old brick. The chimney master liked that we would reuse the brick for the chimney. ;) Best regards, David
BAS: The porous surface can be saturated with special wax for stone. I have used it on the stone we have above the kitchen counter and splashes from the frying pan are easy to wipe off with a dishcloth. I don't remember what the wax is called, but I bought it at K-rauta.
rich710: My brother-in-law has a masonry company and usually plasters houses; he charges around 1000:- per square meter including materials, if I remember correctly.
MathiasS: BKR prescribes bending stiffness at least equivalent to 22mm chipboard on cc30, and the chipboard should be glued and screwed. I suggest that a layer of floor gypsum be placed on top of the chipboard (which is properly screwed into the beams) and that the floor gypsum be fully glued to the chipboard. You can skip the screws if you fully glue it, it will hold like a rock anyway.
Janne_L: I recently bought a one-story house with a finished basement from 1969. It turns out they have had problems with elevated moisture levels in the basement, but this has been addressed externally with a Platon mat, etc., by the previous owner. However, nothing has been done internally. In the recreation room, there was wall-to-wall carpeting with masonite over asfaboard underneath. In addition, the
torparen: I hope the screws were stainless ??? If they are "only" galvanized, they will start to rust shortly.
joco2: Hello! I am going to build a wall in an existing room where we have chipboard flooring and then laminate flooring. Do I need to rout away the laminate flooring and attach the studs to the chipboard, or can I attach the stud directly to the laminate floor? It won't be a floating floor anymore then :-) The room is 11 square meters in size. /Jonathan
rich710: We received a quote for studs and drywall for two bedrooms + bathroom from Älvsbyhus, this would cost around 20 thousand, which I'm not quite sure how it's profitable, the advantage was that they lifted all the material with a crane before the roof was in place, which is good since it wouldn't be fun to haul a lot of drywall up through the new stairs.
Bob_the_builder: [citat] I have bought 5-6 booklets in this series. To be honest, it's probably fair to say that they are not on an insanely high level.
Jonte: [citat] Hello Fru Lind, Hmmm...interesting opinions. Thanks! I know too little to envision it, but I guess I'll have to go and look at some combinations so maybe I'll get wiser. /J
AndersG: Two... I had wished it was one, but now almost the entire panel is there... 28mm
Edvin: [citat] I recognize those dimensions 8) But I thought the top rail in 145x45 would be enough, maybe that needs to be revised. I didn't plan to dig 3-4 m deep holes for the plinths of the patio ??? That's the depth where we have rock, and above it's mostly clay. However, I think I'll drive 3-4 solid reinforcing bars down to the rock and cast these into each plinth, "homemade" piling.