Building Materials and Construction Technology
smurfen69: It should be added that if I connect the wall vapor barrier in the ceiling angle and put a new one on the boards up on the slanted roof, it will only be the old under-roof that ends up between 2 vapor barriers. And that one of these vapor barriers isn't very tight, I'm also thinking that the barrier is meant to breathe a little, so maybe it's not a problem?
Vassalena: [citat] Thank you! Did so and the difference at the end became significantly smaller. It's also not visible that the panel "drifts" a little!
Doobiidoo: Thank you Claes! I'll have to buy slaked lime and clay mortar in the coming days 😊
Jansson69: [citat] I think the original poster has a duplicate thread and it is already resolved. https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/spackel-puts-eller-husfix-pa-vagg.567084/post-6489711
SimonGustafsson: Thank you! Now I'm with you. I thought maybe you could leave the trim and take out the window [citat] Thank you! Now I'm with you. I thought maybe you could leave the trim and tear out the window from the inside but they probably sit in the window frame.
Jansson69: [citat] Sell those bags to someone who has the right need for them because it will just become a mess with a pouring on top of foam with EPS of 0-20mm.
Smoothie: [citat] Rulers along with the Pythagorean theorem is an established system that becomes very precise if you get the holes in the right places, or buy rulers with pre-made holes. However, I haven't seen anyone use a set square. Does anyone know if the holes in a pegboard have sufficient precision across the entire board?
K0nstruktören: I would say that the entire wall section is load-bearing based on the information you provided. The floor structure in the living room spans in the length direction of the house, making the beam and stud wall load-bearing. Edit: If you have construction drawings available, I can give you a definitive answer.
Manganbangan: It looks like a layer of plaster that has come loose here and there.
Dial_595: Did 2 steps today - hardly factory-perfect, but it serves the purpose when new steps are going to be placed on top anyway. One step, including after-sanding with 60-grit paper on a multi-tool, takes about 30 minutes, but it makes a terrible mess - went big by wrapping everything in plastic today, and it really paid off. The plan is to then go over each step with a cement-based filler (Casco
Jansson69: Yes, a painted-in moulding better conceals movements...
Manstralen: [citat] Hi! Old post, but I am now in the process of disassembling my water heater. Did it get as sooty/black as mentioned by tourists in the thread? What was causing the soot, if that's the case??
Foliehatten3: [citat] Yes, Chat Gpt might give completely off-the-wall answers. No, don't worry about it. The only problem is that mice can run out of the holes around the pipes. And they are worse to worry about.
Bjober: Keep in mind that a bracket on the right side exerts a force away from the wall. With a weak wall, it might be better to skip the bracket and only have forces directed downward-upward.
kan inte allt: Everyone does it as they want, just a little wondering if it's really necessary if you have a really good foundation with capillary-breaking material, drainage, insulation, and especially if you have a radonmata.
Pjosk75: Hello How far away from the residence is the jordkällare? A weather station with wireless transmitters works up to 10-20 meters. For example, this one for 500 kr: https://www.clasohlson.com/se/Tradlos-vaderstation-med-3-givare/p/Pr368991000 The downside with that one is that max/min resets every midnight. If you plan to have cameras or smart plugs, you can buy everything from TP-link, for
newbee: Hello, I applied microcement on a waterproof mat from 1980. Only on the floor, as it is in a laundry room. In some places, cracks appeared in the microcement, and there were also hollow spots in it. It’s easy to remove with a putty knife. In other places, it adheres a bit better but worse than I expected. I followed the instructions carefully, washed the mat with both denatured alcohol and then
P-plats: [citat] Thanks for the tip on the glue, I will check it out. I have some ground work to do so I have to wait a bit anyway since the ground has started to freeze.
P-plats: Anyone with experience on the strength of stainless wood screws compared to those made of treated steel? There is a significant price difference, so you don't want to spend money unnecessarily. [citat] Depends on the purpose and in this case, the construction. I have a nail gun that will be used where this is the best solution, but that wasn't what the question was about.
evoline: Does anyone know if this is good to use? Decking tool Heco Decking Tool+ https://www.jula.se/catalog/bygg-och-farg/infastning/utomhusskruvar/trallskruv/trallverktyg-014539/ [MEDIA=youtube]rDmwyJ-SAzc[/MEDIA] Decking screw 4.2x60 https://www.jula.se/catalog/bygg-och-farg/infastning/utomhusskruvar/trallskruv/trallskruv-014540/ Thanks in advance
useless: EI60 is quite easy to achieve. Three layers of gypsum board on one side of metal studs meet the requirements. But the wall also seems to be the boundary for a fire compartment? Then there are a number of other requirements that must also be fulfilled.
varpan1: [citat] That can hardly cause these problems. Taped staples..? You don't have a single perforation in your house or? Not a single picture nail that penetrates the construction plastic?
Oldboy: Just speculating a little: Probably, the house wasn't designed for the attic to be living space. The rafters look to be 5x5"? That is, not particularly thick. They are probably intended for a light roof - straw or shingles. The beams are likely in the same dimension, 5x5" or maybe 5x6", with a span of 4 m. It might very well be that there are no corresponding beams between the trusses, but it's
Aslan Bro: Amazing brick work! Fantastic. I just finished my own. [MEDIA=youtube]njh0UzKhGqc[/MEDIA]
Ziip: [citat] Ask the tinsmith to cover it with metal, smoothly, and choose lacquered aluminum in the same color as the door and cover the kick plate at the bottom of the door in stainless steel.
Neae: Hej Byggahus! Projekt övervåning står precis klart efter ca 2 års arbete. Det betyder självklart att frun ber mig riva trappen för att se om den går att restaurera. Jag bröt loss den skiva som limmats fast på trappsteget för att undersöka vad det är för trapp vi har. Min fråga är huruvida det är mest lämpligt, möjligt och smart att försöka använda den äldre trappan eller om
zowat: Hej! Jag har en fråga kring en verandakonstruktion som fanns när jag köpte stugan och vill gärna höra hur ni som är mer konstruktionskunniga ser på lösningen. Stugan har ett snedtak där vinkeln gjort att verandans takbjälkar inte kunnat fästas direkt i husets takstolar på ett rakt sätt. Lösningen som är gjord är att man satt en passbit mellan husets takstol/takfot och verandans