Hello,
Planning to help build a ramp to the entrance (for a dog, not a wheelchair) and considering materials.
It will be about 7m long without a railing.
Haven't measured yet but from the picture, I guess about 120cm in width and 60cm in height.
Does this work:
- 3 pieces of 45×145 mm for the load-bearing beam
- 45×95 mm for crossbars/spacers at 400cc
- decking 28×120 mm
- 5x80 screws
- 4.2x55 screws for decking
- post 70x70
- 6x100 screws for post
Or do you recommend something else?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3wxt...ey=z6sinsb6xnzc29by23xcgu9z1&st=jt5b2mwo&dl=0
Will put anti-slip tape on, or do you have other tips?
/Asking for someone else
Thanks in advance
Planning to help build a ramp to the entrance (for a dog, not a wheelchair) and considering materials.
It will be about 7m long without a railing.
Haven't measured yet but from the picture, I guess about 120cm in width and 60cm in height.
Does this work:
- 3 pieces of 45×145 mm for the load-bearing beam
- 45×95 mm for crossbars/spacers at 400cc
- decking 28×120 mm
- 5x80 screws
- 4.2x55 screws for decking
- post 70x70
- 6x100 screws for post
Or do you recommend something else?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3wxt...ey=z6sinsb6xnzc29by23xcgu9z1&st=jt5b2mwo&dl=0
Will put anti-slip tape on, or do you have other tips?
/Asking for someone else
Thanks in advance
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The timber seems adequately sized, probably able to support one or two adults, but the screws might be a bit weak; they should ideally be more than 50% of their length into the next piece (but it will probably hold for a few years if it's not meant to be permanent, and with a sufficient number and strategic placement of these).
Additionally, it seems quite low to have "posts," wouldn't it be simpler to just lay concrete blocks on the ground and build on top of these (though it's a bit unclear from the picture where these 7 meters are supposed to be placed, it doesn't look particularly challenging in the terrain there for a dog of that size to require such sturdy timber).
Moreover, it's unclear what problem the dog has that the ramp solves; will a dog understand to stay on it if they can choose any other path? If the dog is, for example, so frail that it needs a ramp, how long will it benefit from it? Is the structure intended to last for two years, or twenty?
Additionally, it seems quite low to have "posts," wouldn't it be simpler to just lay concrete blocks on the ground and build on top of these (though it's a bit unclear from the picture where these 7 meters are supposed to be placed, it doesn't look particularly challenging in the terrain there for a dog of that size to require such sturdy timber).
Moreover, it's unclear what problem the dog has that the ramp solves; will a dog understand to stay on it if they can choose any other path? If the dog is, for example, so frail that it needs a ramp, how long will it benefit from it? Is the structure intended to last for two years, or twenty?
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· Blekinge
· 12 216 posts
A 45x95 is sufficient as a support beam.
The dog has difficulty with stairs.Spikbjörn said:
The timber seems solidly dimensioned, probably can support an adult or two, but the screws might be a bit flimsy, they should preferably be more than 50% length into the next piece (but it will probably hold for a few years if it's not meant to be permanent, and with a sufficient number and strategic placement of the selection of these).
Then it seems quite low to have "posts," isn't it easier to just place leca blocks on the ground and build on top of them (but it's a bit unclear from the picture where those 7 meters should be placed, it doesn't look particularly difficult in the terrain there for a dog of that size that such sturdy timber is needed).
Also unclear what problem the dog has that the ramp solves, will a dog understand to stay on it if it can choose any path? If, for example, the dog is so weak that it needs a ramp, how long will it benefit from it, will the construction stand for two years or twenty?
Let's say the owners will also use the ramp with the dog, or the kids will come with a stroller, etc., I still want it to last a long time.
I don't want to hear from them that I helped with something that only lasted a year 😁
If it becomes shorter than 7m, that's good, but I just thought it wouldn't be so steep.
It's 3 steps up, I don't know the exact height right now but let's say 60cm.
If the ramp is to slope down 60 cm over a 7-meter length, it won't be much per meter. It's easier to build with full-length studs, which are usually around 5 meters at most in regular hardware stores/normal prices, so you avoid jointing.
It requires a lot of anti-slip if you want to cover it, and tape works poorly under snow and ice. You can try without and add later if needed (more durable would be to staple a metal mesh, but even that is difficult to shovel in winter. The easiest might be thin wooden slats across if something is needed (so you can aim your step at the slat, the dog hardly needs anti-slip?).
It requires a lot of anti-slip if you want to cover it, and tape works poorly under snow and ice. You can try without and add later if needed (more durable would be to staple a metal mesh, but even that is difficult to shovel in winter. The easiest might be thin wooden slats across if something is needed (so you can aim your step at the slat, the dog hardly needs anti-slip?).
Maybe better that way, to just go with 5m or less and avoid joints.Spikbjörn said:
If the ramp is supposed to slope down 60 cm over a 7-meter length, it won't be much per meter. It's easier to build with full-length beams, which are usually around 5 meters at most at a regular hardware store/normal price, so you avoid joints.
You'll need a lot of anti-slip material if you're going to cover it, and tape doesn't work well under snow and ice. You could try without and add it later if needed (more durable would be to staple a metal mesh, but even that's hard to shovel in winter. The simplest might be thin wooden crossbars if needed (so you can aim your step at the bar, the dog hardly needs anti-slip protection?).
And use thin wooden crossbars.
What should the support beams be supported by, posts, leca-blocks, or something else?
Thanks for all the help
It probably depends on the construction, lecablock can be 2, 1+regel, 1, just regel that is pushed where they fit in height. There are probably many different variants and combinations. But posts can also work if you have a plan for it (however, if there is wood against the slabs, there might be moisture at the bottom to protect against, leca can be good in that way).
3 pieces of 45x95 support beams and crossbeams in between.Spikbjörn said:
It depends on the construction, lecablock can be 2, 1+regel, 1, just regel that fits in height. There are probably many different variants and combinations, but poles can also work if you have a plan for it (although if it stands wood against the plates, there may be moisture at the bottom to protect against, leca can be good in that way.
And then NTR A 70x70 pole as support.
https://www.byggmax.se/stolpe-impregnerad-70x70-p08770070
Regardless of whether it's a pole or leca block, you probably have to cut so they end up at the same angle as the support beam, or am I wrong? I thought it would be easier to cut wood than leca then, and then push in and screw them in, but maybe I'm wrong. Therefore, need tips from you🙂
Thanks in advance
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Regardless of what you're supporting with, you can cut wedges at the angle it becomes and support under the beam so it is against a horizontal surface. It's easier to have a slightly longer wedge and fit it in than to precisely match a sloping beam to a beveled "post/block". You can also put a piece of roofing felt or something similar that protects against moisture from above/below.E evoline said:
Thanks.Spikbjörn said:
No matter what you support it with, you can cut wedges at the angle you need and support under the beam so it stands against a horizontal surface. It's easier to have a slightly longer wedge and push it in rather than fitting a leaning beam against a slanted "post/block" precisely. You can also place a piece of roofing felt or something else to protect against moisture from above/below.
I'll check how they want it after measuring all the lengths, etc.
If you go with posts, should you have a stone slab underneath?
I'll probably come back with more questions later😁
It looks as though it is already "paved" (if the ramp is to follow the house wall?).
But if there is often water standing there (it shouldn't be so close to the house wall for the house's sake), you can raise it with stone slabs/lecablock so that the wood doesn't get wet against the ground as often.
If the intention is to hide the "construction" for aesthetic reasons, you can cover the side (similar to the existing stair landing) with decking on the side as well (so you don't get all the leaves and pinecones there, but it makes it harder to clean if anything gets in).
But, of course, it's a compromise between how you value functionality versus appearance and how much time and cost you want to invest in the project (a simple solution based on existing conditions or a desire for a specific execution).
But if there is often water standing there (it shouldn't be so close to the house wall for the house's sake), you can raise it with stone slabs/lecablock so that the wood doesn't get wet against the ground as often.
If the intention is to hide the "construction" for aesthetic reasons, you can cover the side (similar to the existing stair landing) with decking on the side as well (so you don't get all the leaves and pinecones there, but it makes it harder to clean if anything gets in).
But, of course, it's a compromise between how you value functionality versus appearance and how much time and cost you want to invest in the project (a simple solution based on existing conditions or a desire for a specific execution).
Thanks for the input 🙂Spikbjörn said:
It looks like it is already "paved" (if the ramp is to follow the house wall?).
But if there is often standing water there (shouldn't be that way by the house wall for the sake of the house), you could raise it with stone slabs/leca blocks, so that the wood doesn't get wet against the ground as often.
If you want to hide the "construction" for aesthetic reasons, you can clad the side (similar to the existing stair platform) with decking on the side as well (this prevents leaves and cones from getting in, but it’s harder to clean if something does get in).
However, this is of course a compromise between how you value function versus appearance, and how much time and cost you want to invest in the project (simple solution according to existing conditions or specific execution desired).