Building Materials and Construction Technology
neo11: Rex fix or other fix works well for gluing. Use a notched trowel if you have one, 10mm.
blackarrow: I have applied gypsum to the concrete wall with adhesive/mortar because I didn't feel like plastering. Sticks to most things, though it may not be suitable for gluing on wallpaper.
MasHen84: Hey! I'm in the process of converting an old stable into a woodworking shop 🤗 As the picture shows, it’s made of horizontal logs with vertical planks on the outside and finally clad with metal. I've read a bit about not insulating timber "inward" because the heat stays in the installation wall and the timber itself gets cold, adapting to the outside temperature?!? Does this involve any risk
BirgitS: [citat] Slag is a byproduct of metal handling, see here: https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slagg Whether it is slagsten or blåbetong in your walls is hard to know. It might be easiest to ask the board or neighbors. It is unsuitable to inhale any kind of construction dust.
kladde: [citat] Yes, that was suggested by the company that calculated it. But then they wanted large angle brackets with reinforcement. This would make parts stick out too much, and the skirting board wouldn't be able to cover it. Didn't feel like arguing about it, so now it'll have to be with rebar.
HammerGuuurl: I would tear down what we believe is Tretex (the dark brown), and then screw up new drywall. You will also have the pleasure of seeing if there are hidden faults behind the wall.
kiao: The room is about 7 square meters and both the floor and walls cost about 106,000 before ROT.
Ursidae: One has to be a bit pragmatic in an old house. It's wise to reduce moisture migration through the packing, but I guess you didn't have a barrier on the inside before and it probably worked fine? A small complication is that you have (diffusion-open) tape on the outside, which probably still has a certain vapor-retarding effect. There are a couple of options: Try taping between the casing and the
sepi29: Hi, did you find any solution for this sound?
BirgitS: If the ridge runs right-left in the drawing, it is normal for one or two walls that also run in that direction to be load-bearing. Then the staircase can also be attached to it.
Snarkologen: Hello, After watching a documentary about all the crap going on YouTube, I felt like offering young people something more worthwhile to watch, so I've uploaded a 20-minute film about how I built a stone chest for a pier. Maybe it'll entertain someone. [MEDIA=youtube]-8iYFrgF6ZY[/MEDIA]
Vonsmelly: Use plasterboard, tretex is crap. But if you're going to go ahead with it, you'll either need to use a "dry strip" or oil-based primer, joint compound with a composite strip and wallpaper over it and hope it doesn't crack.
Fillefire: [citat] It ended up being chemical anchors! Seems to work well. I was a bit worried about how it would adhere to such porous material, so I didn't apply too much pressure when attaching it.
Nissen11: [citat] Thank you!!! For installation instructions!! Nisse
EmmlanA: Having a similar dilemma, did you use a roller for the spackling? How did it turn out?
Psan: I think the plan is to buy one as below (or similar) which I will divide into smaller pieces and build up with mortar b (?). https://www.finja.se/produkter/block/murblock-bas?id=11072060 Then finish with "laga vägg" for a "nice" surface. A lot of new things lately...
Jansson69: Partially, they become a dust trap inside, and they are not as shape-stable as solid parts. The sound will probably be amplified too, but I'm not a sound expert...
BirgitS: [citat] Does it matter that (or if) it is a moisture barrier?
ottotorsten: [citat] No, that wasn't done. It is a room we haven't filled yet, so the possibility still exists there.
frökenfräken: [citat] It wasn't easy to take a picture. The first picture is taken straight from the front. The second picture is taken from below. Both pictures are taken in the basement. [bild] [bild]
Testarn: Our outer walls are also made of aerated concrete/lightweight concrete and originally there was 2 cm styrofoam between vertical wooden slats and masonite nailed to the slats. When we renovated, I glued thicker styrofoam to the concrete, attached OSB with screws into the concrete, and then screwed drywall into the OSB, and it has made a difference in warmth and comfort inside.
Jansson69: You can knock down anything loose in the crack and vacuum it, then repair it with, for example, Lagavägg from Finja. Once you have repaired it smoothly and puttyed and treated the wall in preparation for painting or wallpapering, you apply adhesive sealant in the corner before the final surface.
BirgitS: If they are truss rafters, no wall should be load-bearing on the upper floor. That said, it doesn't mean you can tear down all the walls. However, the house might have settled somewhat, so the wall could be bearing a little; when it's removed, the roof might sag a bit.
lärjungen: [citat] Facing the same dilemma. How did you do it?
Johan Gunverth: In the search for cheap and slightly thinner panel wood for a shelving project, may I recommend Spirec in Borås. They purchase leftover lots of wood and other materials from larger constructions and sawmills. It can also be material with partial blemishes like mold and water damage. Nevertheless, ridiculously cheap. They also have an excellent range of rough-sawn materials. I found planed
Jansson69: They are too thin and weak, feel one and you'll see that each wedge is mostly air and thin plastic walls. Like these which are designed to withstand pressure.. [bild] “Knudsens K-Kloss 6T is a series of blocks that are ideal for propping up heavy objects. K-Kloss 6T is made from HDPE or high-density polyethylene, which can withstand very high pressure. The K-Klosses can be assembled to form a
barkisar: [citat] Thanks for the reply! Yes, it might be best to replace them, I was hoping to avoid that, but it might not last very long otherwise. I suspect they have already had to replace the upper part of the chimney once, hence the different bricks. /Barkisar