Hello everyone!

I am planning to replace an existing window with a patio door in the kitchen. The kitchen is supposed to be renovated in a few weeks, and unfortunately, I need to make the switch at the same time. It's the only time I will have the entire interior wall free enough to reframe, install panels, and so on. It's a narrow kitchen, so the window currently extends a bit over the countertop. The door will be narrower than the window currently in place.

I was thinking of temporarily covering the hole in the wall from the outside and working from the inside, finishing the exterior paneling last. Do you think this would work, or am I completely off track? Do you have any tips on what I can put on the outside to keep the worst winter cold out?
 
J
S SimonGustafsson said:
Hello everyone!

I'm planning to replace an existing window with a patio door in the kitchen. The kitchen is set to be replaced in a few weeks, and unfortunately, I need to do the replacement in conjunction with that. It's the only time I'll have the entire interior wall free enough to reframe, set boards, and so forth. It's a narrow kitchen, so the window currently extends a bit over the countertop. The door will be narrower than the window that's there today.

I was thinking of temporarily covering the hole in the wall from the outside and working from the inside, dealing with the outer paneling last. Do you think this could work, or am I completely off track? Do you have any tips on what I can put on the outside to keep the worst winter cold out?
How exposed is the window opening outside? Is it on a gable end or under an eave?
 
It is the front of a townhouse so there isn't much that protects the opening.
 
  • Red house exterior with window showing a decorative star hanging inside. Indoor lighting illuminates a plant and a candle on a table.
J
Okay, but can you keep the flashing above the window to protect the opening properly..
I would have installed a 21mm construction plywood to get approved burglary protection and then insulated the hole from the inside until the door is installed, do not make the plywood wider than the sheet metal in the facade so that water/moisture cannot seep in..
 
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J Jansson69 said:
Ok but can you keep the flashing above the window to protect the opening well..
I would have put a 21mm construction plywood to get approved burglary protection and then insulated the hole from the inside until the door is installed, do not make the plywood wider than the metal sheet that is in the facade so that water/moisture cannot run in..
Thank you so much for the help. So remove the window but keep the flashing and trim on the outside to attach the plywood? Then frame, insulate, and put up panels from the inside?
 
J
S SimonGustafsson said:
Thank you very much for the help. So, remove the windows but keep the overhang
Yes, up to that point it's good..
S SimonGustafsson said:
and the trim on the outside for attaching the plywood?
You need to remove the trim as you will be demolishing under the window to finish framing for the door and then plywood on the outside, preferably with Torx screws or similar to make it harder for a break-in..
Then you can temporarily insulate from the inside..
 
Thank you! Now I'm with you. I thought maybe you could leave the trim and take out the window
J Jansson69 said:
Yes, so far so good..

You need to remove the trim when you're tearing out under the window, so you frame for the door and then put plywood on the outside, preferably with Torx screws or similar to make it more difficult for break-ins.. Then you can temporarily insulate from the inside..
Thank you! Now I'm with you. I thought maybe you could leave the trim and tear out the window from the inside but they probably sit in the window frame.
 
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