Building Materials and Construction Technology
Vedhuggarrn: I use Danalim's cooltack for most things when I need glue joints. I think it holds well and lasts long, even in exposed places with a lot of saltwater and sun.
Fixaren 76: Hello I'm considering building something similar in a lake. Did you build it according to the sketch and has it withstood the ice?
Carl Johansson: [citat] Important that it is airtight as well, apply some latex sealant if you haven't already done so.
Carl Johansson: Do you know why it's cracking? If the plaster is attached, especially the corner pieces, it should be enough to chip up the crack a little, wet it gently and fill it with some regular mortar, it might seem.
Åsa Lund: Cut the threads and push them into the hole they go into. If the wall is wallpapered (and repainted), you can tape a piece of new wallpaper on top. Tape carefully so it doesn't move sideways. Then cut a square through BOTH layers of wallpaper. Carefully peel off the taped piece first. Then also remove the painted-over old wallpaper, scrape thoroughly. Now you have a section of wall without
Andreas Söder: Hey there, had some builders with rollers on the property opposite and got a few more small cracks in the cement joints. Had quite a few before so only a marginal difference, but planning to get cracking and fix some this summer. Do you have suggestions for fixing such small cracks? I could of course mill away the existing cement joint and lay new, but it feels like a big job since they're a bit
WarraWarra: Update with results and how I finally did it. Time will tell if it was the right choice. Framed the wall by screwing the ledger into the ceiling. Construction glue and screws for the wall studs. Lumppapp was placed under the sill as recommended and was screwed in two places with slightly larger pre-drilled holes through the parquet, which can hopefully be repaired if the wall is to be removed at
Stefan_E: The gables do not take much vertical load but are useful for structural stabilization, i.e., for wind load if there are no interior walls parallel to the gables. For example, garages with a door on the gable can experience stabilization problems without interior cross walls.
zarkov: [citat] Not at all, it just takes a bit longer.
Namnet: [citat] I've seen that solution, but it's not entirely correct. You don’t want to cut away insulation that you've initially placed there. It also creates a thermal bridge. I will have sliding door sections along the entire side, so then you have to remove the insulation all the way.
NickeNickee: OnceWall has now resumed the production of Lavellasponten so it is available for purchase at hardware stores or directly from OnceWall.
Staffan-N: If the construction turns out ugly, you carve a compass rose and put it on the ceiling :)
fribygg: [citat] Henrik has not been active for 15 years so you probably shouldn't expect any answers now....
Gräsand: Facing the renovation of the hallway in the house from the 1910s. Wooden floor structure and water-based underfloor heating, which is already in place from the previous owner. Considering the construction under the tiles. It's desirable for the finished floor to add as little height as possible, as the connecting rooms do not have underfloor heating and are therefore already slightly lower than
Micke1994: [citat] Yeah, it felt a bit like that on some, no, maybe 20 out of 120 are too far in.
offlarjon: Thank you for all the great answers, now I have a clear understanding of how the wall mount should be securely attached :)
SvanteC: [citat] You should ask an engineer who can calculate loads, etc. It's not something you can guess.
wildeside: Smooth it out with plaster.
partyoverallt: There was very little interest. Isn't this how you do it? ;) Luckily, I trust my ideas :D [bild]
Ossian K Olsson: [citat] If you really want to secure it, you could place two battens (like furring strips 70x28 or 70x45) along the entire width of the wall, to which you then screw the mount. There is a risk that the board will give way now that the screws are centered. [bild] Example image
Danin: [citat] You'll probably be more than satisfied, I recall it took 1 day to wash and one day to paint. It was quite smooth. They were good at maintaining safety, as they wore fall protection the entire time. There were about 6 weeks between washing and painting. The neighbor did the same last year, and they completed everything in 2 days for washing and painting. No algae treatment or fall
jonaserik: Probably better with 6 cm and then the iron is placed about 2 - 2.5 cm from the bottom, it's the deflection that should be prevented. As for the plastered house, I agree with the appearance.
Karriärmamman: Prerequisites. Residential plot with a large driveway where deer come every evening. They walk along the driveway onto the plot and eat everything and pull everything out of the soil and pots. I am tired of it. Planning a fence along certain parts of the plot, "sits in the hedge" and isn't visible. It's difficult to have a gate on the driveway as it's not possible to have an opening for bicycles
halj: [citat] What holds best is aerated concrete screws. Plugs work very well for concrete but not for aerated concrete. Especially not for something that will be pulled on. The hole will enlarge and the rod will come loose. There is no other good option unless you start messing with anchor compound. Just screw in without pre-drilling, gently at the end so you don't tighten too hard and damage the