Vertical paneling on standing timber

[Anders_cc]

Started replacing the facade on the house, built in 1903. Today, there is a board and batten panel that is very weathered on the south side.
The panel is nailed directly onto the standing timber. I have removed the panel and taken off the wind barrier paper.
Now I wonder if it would work to staple new wind barrier paper to the timber and then horizontally screw a thinner batten (for the sake of air space and to even out the timber's irregularities).
Is 22x70 sufficient? Is there anything thinner? Most of the nails will end up in the timber except for those that insist on landing in the gaps.

I want to minimize the "sinking" of the windows and an unsightly overlap over the foundation wall.


Best regards, Anders

 

[fribygg]

That should be enough, I myself would probably have settled for replacing the worst boards and repainting, thinking that you might have difficulty getting the equivalent quality wood today?

 

[Anders_cc]

Thank you for the response.
One problem was that most of the boards had warped, considered at one point just replacing the top boards and screwing new ones in. Afraid that several of the bottom boards would then break along the middle. Dry-cracked almost all the way through.

 

[fribygg]

Thanks for the reply.
One problem was that most of the boards had warped, was considering just replacing the cover battens and screwing on new ones. Afraid that several of the bottom boards would then break along the middle. Dried and cracked almost all the way through.

Do not screw, panel and battens are better nailed

 

[Anders_cc]

Do not screw, panel and battens are better to nail

Used 2.8x75mm nails for the baseboards
What nails should I use for the upper battens? 3.4x100mm? I'm a bit tempted to screw the upper battens because the tensile strength is better than the nails'

Regards Anders

Do not screw, panel and battens are better to nail

Started replacing the facade on the house, built in 1903. Currently, there is an upper-batten panel on the south side that is very weathered.
The panel is nailed directly on the standing timber. I have torn down the panel and removed the wind barrier.
Now I'm wondering if it's okay to staple new wind barrier to the timber and then horizontally screw a thinner nail batten (for the air gap and to even out the timber's irregularities)
Is 22x70 sufficient? Is there a thinner option? Most of the nails will still be in the timber, except for those that insist on landing in the gaps.

Want to minimize the "recess" of the windows as well as an unattractive overlap over the foundation wall.

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Regards Anders

 

[fribygg]

Used 2.8x75mm nails for the baseboards
Which nails should I use for the cover strips? 3.4x100mm? A bit tempted to use screws for the cover strips because the tensile strength is better than the nails.

Regards, Anders

If you nail, future maintenance will be quicker/easier, just tap in the nail if needed and easy to remove the strips with a crowbar if necessary. If you screw, you or a future owner will have to find the bit slots that are probably then covered with paint and dirt or break the strips.

 

[Anders_cc]

If you nail, future maintenance will be faster/easier, just tap in the nail if needed and easy to loosen the batten with a crowbar if necessary. If you screw, you or a future owner will need to find the bit tracks, which are probably then covered with paint and dirt, or break the batten.

Thanks for the input.
But which nail? 3.4x100 galvanized wire nail?

 

[fribygg]

Thanks for the input.
But which nail. 3.4x100 galvanized wire nail?

That will be excellent, if you have 4" plain nail in stock, that will do as well

 

[Anders_cc]

That will be excellent, if you have 4" blankspik in stock, that will do too

Thank you very much