Building Materials and Construction Technology
Karriärmamman: Prerequisites. Residential plot with a large driveway where deer come every evening. They walk along the driveway onto the plot and eat everything and pull everything out of the soil and pots. I am tired of it. Planning a fence along certain parts of the plot, "sits in the hedge" and isn't visible. It's difficult to have a gate on the driveway as it's not possible to have an opening for bicycles
halj: [citat] What holds best is aerated concrete screws. Plugs work very well for concrete but not for aerated concrete. Especially not for something that will be pulled on. The hole will enlarge and the rod will come loose. There is no other good option unless you start messing with anchor compound. Just screw in without pre-drilling, gently at the end so you don't tighten too hard and damage the
Demmpa: See https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/val-av-traeskruv.489690/
Isakare: [citat] I have this one from Biltema, bought it 15 years ago, used a lot in my job. Stripped screw heads: Practice, practice, practice with the right tools and you'll never strip any screws.
tacho: Okay, good suggestions from both of you. I won't spend more time looking for that specific product. Thanks for the help!
neo11: You have thick plaster. Just hammer in a long dowel, choose the length according to the conditions. https://www.bygghemma.se/hus-och-bygg/tak/takavvattning/tillbehor-takavvattning/stift-wijo-for-rorsvep-stenvagg/p-653818-653856?gclid=CjwKCAjw1MajBhAcEiwAagW9MZeZoypY0pU5uIjXMEetpxQ-YqyS91ylu14W-5O3xOIDk6gO944QtBoCVHMQAvD_BwE And pipe clamp
jonaserik: NOW it is happening again. In that insulation, there is no ASBETS so relax. That kind of insulation was used in the past and is a fiber insulation or, as it's said, a horsehair product-
perhed: Hello! I don't know if this is the right place in the forum to post, but I'll try here. Today we discovered some spots on a wall in the upstairs of the house. See the pictures. We immediately thought that the roof is leaking. [bild] [bild] [bild] Once in the attic, the roof looks fine. No broken tiles or anything. The insulation looks dry. The chimney, which is some distance away, is also dry.
Henningelvis: I think it looks like you have a ridge roof, meaning a number of longitudinal beams on which boards have been laid. What I'm wondering about is the support. As mentioned, the beams usually rest on a central load-bearing wall, but where you have the balcony room there is no such wall. I guess that room was added later. You can also see in your pictures that the roof structure seems to be made of
alexander___: I am installing horizontal panels with single tongue and groove. Do I really need to saw a drip edge on the bottom board on these? I think the current design provides the same function? [bild]
Chippe: Old thread but I had approximately 10-month-old 45x170 pressure-treated wooden beams that had been in the garage and became slightly warped, about 1-2 cm in the middle towards the ends. With a spirit level, I fixed two flat surfaces and placed the beams on them. I placed weights and other items in the middle of the beams, and after a couple of days, they were straight. I don't know how dry they
Rattan: [citat] no, that's correct. The bridge is where it is, the stone pier has been in place for a long time. I'm just going to reinforce the structure, all well above the waterline.
xLnT: What an odd pattern they've laid the hoses in. Normally you'd lay them with the same c/c across the entire floor, can't you measure it out then? How close do you estimate you need to drill? As a reference, I recently used the following screw for the inner wall: [bild]
Husplaner: [citat] I am satisfied but the company cheated and did not take down all the lighting on the facade. //Lajla
Troberg: I have a shed where I keep my motorcycles, and I am going to move that shed now, which means I also need to build a better ramp to the door. The old ramp was made of wood, and it can become very slippery, which both makes it easy to spin the rear wheel when driving in and easy to slip when putting your foot down. With over 300 kg (I would guess 330 kg as mine is equipped/loaded when it has a full
MarcusLindeberg: Hi, I need advice regarding a roof structure for our intended pergola. Today, there is a framework of 95x95 timber. Three posts with three beams attached to the house + two beams between the posts. The beams stretch about 4.35m from the post to the house wall. Between the posts, it's about 4 meters. My plan is to complement these sections with an additional 95x95 beam so that the "C/C"
Hedlund1967: We have a lot of blasted rock and fill material that we need to get rid of. We have considered using the blasted rock to build a retaining wall and fill the ground behind the wall to create a terrace where we can have a patio (see the red marking on the image). We want the terrace to extend along the entire short side of the house because it provides the most evening sun. This means that we will
plåtrickard: If you really want to mouse-proof, perforated sheet metal is the option.
Cassandra: [citat] Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a try and see if I'm satisfied.
Tompafix: [citat] Of course, you should fill the wall with insulation. Stone wool has good properties for just sound damping. You could also put up an acoustic panel behind the TV, which is trendy right now and looks nice. If you want to go extra far to soundproof, there are ways to make a so-called sound-rated wall. But it costs more.
Grevbo: Hello I'm planning to install vertical board paneling on the summer house, currently there is horizontal fjällpanel on the house. I am not going to add extra insulation. Initially, I thought of tearing off the fjällpanel but now I have started planning to place the board paneling directly on top of the fjällpanel, is that right or wrong?
Rickard.: [citat] No, the coating is only on the surface, but the zinc works (roughly) as a sacrificial anode for the bare steel and protects it.
LandxPelle: [citat] Might end with plastering on the outside with the bricks or masonry mortar. Check with a builder if you're unsure which mortar you should use. I would also install smaller ventilation pipes with a grille so that air can flow in and out. Air circulation in a crawlspace is good. Then you might leave one hatch in place and tidy it up so you can go down into the foundation and inspect
Hammare&Spik: [citat] The bolts are intended for use in roof mounting. I probably need strong French wood screws as the awning is 5.5m long and weighs 70kg.
jonmo: [citat] +1, I also think that's a bigger issue. Does your intended design have any bracing?
kalj: We have an apartment built in 1966 with lightweight concrete in the inner walls. Now I would like to set up my hangboard (https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/collections/fingerboards/products/beastmaker-1000-series) above one of the door frames. How is the piece above the door actually attached, and how much weight can it take, do you think? 100 kilos is perhaps what I will load it with, can it hold for
Kris1: Those of you who are good at plastering, do I need to remove all the old tile adhesive or can I plaster over it? Will it require netting?
nino: I'm thinking about an arched bridge... I could probably get freshly sawn timber in most dimensions. Could one make a jig where you bend down the timber while it dries? Probably doesn't need to have a big rise, about 3-4dm over 5m. A support in the middle and loops in the garage floor at the ends, where you tighten it a little now and then in the winter. Maybe you would have to put one on each