Building Materials and Construction Technology
Kris1: Those of you who are good at plastering, do I need to remove all the old tile adhesive or can I plaster over it? Will it require netting?
nino: I'm thinking about an arched bridge... I could probably get freshly sawn timber in most dimensions. Could one make a jig where you bend down the timber while it dries? Probably doesn't need to have a big rise, about 3-4dm over 5m. A support in the middle and loops in the garage floor at the ends, where you tighten it a little now and then in the winter. Maybe you would have to put one on each
AG A: [citat] Hardly necessary. Water once or twice during the day/evening you're casting. Then let plastic sit over it.
jonaserik: The steel is hard and a normal hole saw can't handle it. Look for a hole saw for metal, it should have small teeth. But be careful when it's just about to go through, as it will definitely snag. Otherwise, use a tiger saw with a proper metal blade to cut the iron. It will kick a bit and right near the iron, the hole will become wider. But if you're planning to have a drum through, it won't matter.
Vermilion: [citat] Like paint from a spray can?? That would be super easy :D
hobbs: [citat] Ok! Do you mean construction screws, or regular 6mm? There is a risk of snow from the roof above.
Byggareberg: Anyone more critical of the construction? Anyone want to provide numbers that say yay or nay? :giggle:
Anders243: Does anyone know where to buy a few (about 10-16) Zanda Arktis roof tiles? A relative is getting their roof painted soon and would need some spare tiles painted at the same time. I can't find them at the usual building merchants (Beijer, XL, etc.) but on the other hand, I haven't contacted "my" salesperson yet.
larsbj: Now a picture would have been good.. But the safest way is to pull it down. Saw off so that it is not connected with what you want to keep. Remove the panel and any braces. Attach a rope or similar and pull with the excavator in the house's longitudinal direction so you get everything down on the ground, then there will be some cleaning work...
ptk: Is reinforcement usually used for floor leveling compound? I didn't know that. But of course, it probably doesn't hurt anyway.
Oldboy: It doesn't look like blåbetong. Blåbetong is specifically blue(-gray). This looks like regular gray concrete. It's not clear whether the lättbetong is on the inside or outside of the wall (concrete hole blocks), but you'll notice when you chip/drill/saw into it.
kaffetorsk: A stove in that fireplace can be a good long-term investment. Also good to have as an extra heat source during power outages.
Carl Johansson: Hello, I've removed really poor plaster with equally poor joints in an old bathroom in the basement and want to replaster. The joints are very porous and the stone also absorbs water. What should I prime with and then use for plaster? [bild]
datja: I only have "inherited" knowledge, based on what my parents and neighbors did in their townhouses in the 90s. But they didn't install any moisture barriers, and the townhouses are still doing well.
Evakarin54: [citat] It ended up being styrofoam for us.
jonaserik: No problem with the strength if you mill down your 70 to 60, 5 mm on each side. They should stand with support at the top, to not fall sideways. The strength lies in the pressure from above and it is significant.
Distordera: [citat] It's brown thicker papp. Air barrier I believe it was called in the past. That is, not the tar-smelling wind barrier that is often found behind exterior paneling.
fast3xx: Hello I am building a two-story house with a wooden balcony along the entire long side (about 19 m). When we opt out of the wooden railings from the house supplier, we get back 25 thousand kronor and also have to install the glass railing ourselves. My partner and I know very little when it comes to carpentry, but the question is whether it can be solved for a reasonable cost on our own? Perhaps
Unikt namn: I never mount Molly without pliers. https://www.biltema.se/verktyg/handverktyg/tanger/specialtanger/metallexpandertang-2000047092 By only screw-expanding it, I find it too often easy to either tighten too little so that it doesn't secure properly, or too much so that threads on the screw or nut break. Other mistakes I've made include using a Molly plug for double drywall on single drywall. That
Mikaelzii: [citat] indoor paneling?
egge80: Fill the holes with anchor compound and insert the plug, attach what you want the next day I see now that you've already received the tip
Stenok: [citat] 80x80 would be great, but glulam is probably not recommended. It should still be pressure-treated, right?
Packebror: [citat] I was actually lucky to encounter a designer at work who calculated that a HEA 160mm should do the job! Sometimes you just get lucky, thanks for the response anyway!
sultanen1: I had tried something similar to Kurtivan. Try screwing in the smallest screws possible into the trim that still have the strength to pull out the panel/join trim/panel. You will probably need to countersink them a bit to avoid damaging the trim. If the panel is quite loose, it might work. The trim/panel will likely have a slight bowing, but overall it will look much nicer than having a gap of
Mildredemil: Drove a full day I'll remember. I'm not a perfectionist but the result was quite ok. Don't forget knee pads!
JennieC: Hello! We have a room with two stalled projects that I wonder if anyone has experience with. In the basement level, there is a bedroom at one end and a living room with a fireplace. Tile flooring with underfloor heating runs from the hallway through an arch into both the living room and bedroom. We are planning to partition the living room to create another bedroom at the same end as the