Building Materials and Construction Technology
Danne N: The problem is that the company I hired has purchased everything, and I expect the joist hangers and posts to be the same dimensions. Over time, I've noticed several mistakes, for example, that I can scrape off the concrete with my nails. It also seems like they have placed wooden pieces under the joist hangers for support. I don't plan to pay or give them another chance! I've concluded that it's
mckn: Dear friends, I am going to cast an entrance staircase "pyramid style," meaning it should be possible to go up and down on three sides. A large tread at the top and then two more treads and two risers. I have read everything I can and watched all YouTube videos, but I have a few questions as I haven't seen anyone cast exactly this type of staircase: 1. I need a slope perpendicular from the house
falkn: Use a slightly longer facade plug like SXR from Fischer. It will hold nicely regardless of whether it's in the brick or the joint. https://www.bauhaus.se/fasadplugg-sxr-10x140-t-fzv?gclid=CjwKCAjw-IWkBhBTEiwA2exyO22FtooiXyNCTbKtNItvt-6OyJ3sBBtNc089v6vuY9WRQGtbqPYfgRoCP8kQAvD_BwE
Dan_Johansson: If you already have a battery system, it is easiest to choose the same...
ZedLeppelin: Anyone need a pair of acute angle ejectors and a bunch of hooks from Plannja's Zinc-Magnesium series? Available in Ölme outside Kristinehamn. Can I get five hundred? https://www.blocket.se/annons/varmland/plannja_zink_magnesium_delar/109131087
masen7502: [citat] Ok. Thanks for the great tips.
danne9: [citat] Don't people usually build gates with a frame? Here there are only a top and bottom rail, none on the sides. I think it would have been easier, and better, if there were corners to attach the diagonal brace to. As long as the rails don't crack when I screw into the miter, maybe it'll be enough together with the boards. From the lower hinge to the upper rail's corner I've got covered (I've
Bellemannen: [citat] Bought at Bromma stål
Walle85: [citat] I have been advised to use Rockwool Flexibatts.
Hilwan: Hi I need some good advice from you knowledgeable people here. We haven't been able to stay in the cottage due to the problems, haven't dared to use either the sewage or water, out of fear of leakage. I've checked around with local builders, but they don't seem interested in taking on these more complicated projects. Haven't yet found anyone willing to help us with this. I have a house where
sturnus: Joists from the wall to the outside are enough 170x45
mojjen: [citat] Recessing is not possible, I have a sliding door that goes in the last upper 80-90 cm of the stairs.
Avemo: [citat] No, that is a hasty conclusion. LVI does not have different boxes for 400V and 230V. It says on terminal 2: "L2 (N)". It is impossible to know by looking at the box. Either you have to look at the nameplate on the old element or measure between black and blue.
raveper: Ordinary stone can be drilled excellently with a hammer drill. A slightly better machine than a percussion drill which likely mostly just shakes and makes noise. What the concrete that holds the stones together is made of is hard to know, as well as where the air from the holes comes from.
Thomas_Blekinge: Sure you should dare to hire another company. In many contexts, a steel rail is much more attractive than a bulky wooden rail. I hired a company twice to manufacture a galvanized rail and a steel construction for a staircase. Partially complicated things that I designed myself but turned out great. [bild]
nimhed: [citat] Found 8m here. https://www.jemfix.se/yttakpapp-toptite-6-graa-8-x-1-m-tecca/4210/9061238/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwj_ajBhCqARIsAA37s0xV4Ct2NCtFwkchb2hl3WJhWDT615VIbTEpYJMrqHZP1F9DHOCgWF4aAmuYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Feeling a bit uninformed when it comes to quality. Can you guide me?
Ragren: The wall is thus filled. Maybe 15 cm with this mass. Very easy to drill through.
Kalle Rosén: Hello! We laid a layer of asphalt millings on the hill up to the summer cottage about two years ago. We outsourced the work, and they removed the old road and built the new road with millings and an underlayer with base course. They compacted the road, and it was left undisturbed for about 4 weeks without any traffic. My questions are, what can I do to get the road to settle? As it is now, it's
Carl Johansson: [citat] the crack looks old and you can probably easily fill it with mortar. Fun project you have in front of you! [citat] It will probably be fine there, g
Jocce81: [citat] That's kind of what I'm thinking too. /Jocce
Hep: Maybe a couple of pieces of this under the box if it doesn't slide enough after waxing.
banjoatte: [citat] The person who built it chose the wrong screw. Not me. However, I replaced them with better screws.
m@nge: [citat] Yes, that can surely be repaired as you say. But I'd like to refresh the entire stairway since I'm at it. Might look a bit spotty otherwise?