Building Materials and Construction Technology
björnuf: [citat] Is 3mm overhang enough for the drip, or what did you mean?
teuvo tainio: [citat] Good morning, my deck/sunroom about 25m2 I built in 1992 with summer glass. In 2010 I renovated it for fall/winter with an insulated floor, glass, and 40 mm channel plastic roof, the joists were reinforced with more piers due to the extra weight, it is not attached to the house and it has never moved in a measurable/notable way, but a prerequisite is that the groundwork is done properly,
iskva: I'm sitting with almost the identical problem on my garage roof. How did you eventually solve it?
cpalm: I will return to this after trying to find more detailed construction solutions. It's probably between EPS and loose Leca as it feels right now. Specifically, I'm wondering if it's possible to reinforce and float directly on loose Leca and, if so, how to go about it?
classelagare1: It's hard to see the span of the beam, what's above it, etc., but it seems like the hole is close to the wall that the beam rests on. In that case, I wouldn't be particularly worried unless there's some extreme weight above. Look at a lightweight beam, and you'll see that it's only the outermost parts that make a significant difference in what it can withstand. That the hole looks rough is
jonasfin: Thank you for your input! Will skip SKB and go for the regular 👍
Oldboy: The former owner of our farm has laid a concrete slab inside some of the outbuildings. Made in the early '80s, i.e., about 40 years ago. A rough concrete mix with macadam as ballast. On top of that, he has spilled out fiberglass-reinforced self-leveling compound. It is a tough material. It is completely smooth on the top side. However, he didn't take the trouble to try to level it, so you can see
Hedton1: AI " It's a classic problem; paint mercilessly reveals all the unevenness. The reason the plaster comes off when you paint over it is that paint creates tension as it dries, and if the plaster layer underneath is too thin (like a "film") or if the surface is saturated with paint, the plaster doesn't adhere. Here's the smoothest way forward to get the smooth walls you desire: 1. Stop using plaster
datja: Their house. Their problem. Say you don't want to have anything to do with them anymore. And besides: how can the new owners be so foolish as to appeal the final notice on their own house? Why did you apply for planning permission for extensions that you haven't done? But don't worry. There are insurmountable obstacles for the new owners to win a battle over compensation for hidden defects.
borjerik: My dog did the same thing. I got a tip about Plastic Padding. It worked well.
Avemo: It's not too picky about what material you use for shelves. If you want them white and smooth, melamine-coated chipboard is practical. OSB seems less practical. It has an uneven surface. You can also get shelves made of edge-glued pine. Or uncoated chipboards. But you won't get as smooth a surface then.
Stefan1972: It will probably work, but you should probably use putsbruk to start with.
Tove_80: [citat] Thank you so much for the response! We will make a different kind of railing to comply with that. We just don't want it to be as "coarse" as it is now.
4integration: Created an update in new thread https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/entretrappa-i-stal-och-granit-planering.571402/
BirgitS: When it comes to regular drywall, it's important to consider how it will fit around windows, doors, etc. That the wall comes out 13 mm instead of 6 can make a big difference.
Bronken: Maybe it's just my OCD or something but I think they could write a x b => 43 x 15, since a = 43 not 15. [bild] Not worse than that! Take back everything I've said
maah: Remove what you call "räcke" (handledare is probably the more correct term). Then cover with plywood and plasterboard so you can paint everything white afterwards.
Utsliten och utdömd: You do not want to drain too deeply beneath the foundation because you have clay soil. Likely post-glacial clay. Clay loses all its bearing capacity if you drain away the moisture from it. And then the risk of settling becomes extremely high, almost guaranteed.
13th Marine: [citat] We now want to be able to use the rooms behind and need to get rid of the support.
gmogmo: [citat] If you start with a ready-made set of smooth wardrobe sliding doors, it should be easy to modify. Note that the acoustic panel should not be thicker than what it replaces.
Vilot: Had similar problems, but it was my dog's claws that scratched the stair treads. My initial solution was a lot of filler and paint but it was not long-term. Finally, I chose stair tread mats!
Aberg21: Vi håller på att totalrenovera huset, inklusive källaren, och jag har kört fast lite kring förarbetet på väggarna. Problemet är att väggarna sandar. Oavsett hur mycket jag slipar känns det som att de aldrig blir helt rena. När man drar handen längs ytan kommer det fortfarande ner sand, även efter ordentlig slipning och borstning. Det verkar dock bara vara ytligt (ca 1–2 mm). Min
g.kraft: If the house is right, it can be fixed. With a wind like that, you can reinforce the rafters if needed. I had confidently assumed it would work, then whether it costs 100kr or 30tkr to solve it may not be such a big issue in this context.
Sundsbron: [citat] An old thread, but I'll try anyway ;) I also have problems with mice eating up the pipe insulation. I have an old summer cottage with pipes in the crawl space. Breaking up the floors to lay the pipes there is cumbersome. @Husköpare 8 Have you found a good solution to your problem?
Kloppe: Where did you buy the rug? 😃 and what glue do you recommend?
Anto Katinic: [citat] Hello, I built a house in Limhamn 15 years ago with Porotherm blocks and I have no problems with cracks anywhere. We used mesh and thick plaster and cast all load-bearing beams with reinforcement bars. You have probably made a mistake in execution or used the wrong materials. Best regards, Anto
Phalle: Hej Har dränerat för ca 1 år sen. Nu är det dags att ta tag i insidan där puts/färg har släppt. Men det finns en uppsjö av puts och spackel. Vad ska man använda på insidan av yttervägg? Jag är lite osäker på vad det är för färg på väggen nu, men den känns lite gummiaktig. Jag gissar från 70talet. Om det är plastfärg är det slipa bort allt och lägga på silikat som gäller