Building Materials and Construction Technology
Phalle: Hej Har dränerat för ca 1 år sen. Nu är det dags att ta tag i insidan där puts/färg har släppt. Men det finns en uppsjö av puts och spackel. Vad ska man använda på insidan av yttervägg? Jag är lite osäker på vad det är för färg på väggen nu, men den känns lite gummiaktig. Jag gissar från 70talet. Om det är plastfärg är det slipa bort allt och lägga på silikat som gäller
Andreas E. Olsson: [citat] That sounds thick. But maybe it's necessary.
RassellCrow: Leaving that 5 cm air gap has worked well for me before, and I just tied the new brick skin into the sides with metal wall ties so the whole thing stayed put without stressing the aerated concrete. I also kept the reclaimed bricks damp so they didn’t suck the mortar dry too fast. I once had Emerson Chimney & fireplace New Jersey https://emersonproservices.com/new-jersey/chimney-fireplace/ check
Typografs: I had the same struggle picking something sturdy that wouldn’t eat up the whole room, and a kids bunk bed https://www.coolkidsbed.com/product-category/bunk-bed ended up being the easiest way to free up floor space. I liked that some options had built-in desks and storage, so I didn’t need extra furniture. The price range was manageable too, so I could focus more on features than stretching my
pmd: [citat] A construction notification is almost the same as a building permit nowadays.
tyomka: Yes, it can be an option, though more time-consuming and probably more costly.
Tai Pan: Ah, okay, unfortunately that's too much work for our circumstances, otherwise we would gladly have done it :/
robpo: [citat] Interesting. So they measured the number of cars and not the noise? Do they have any real value on the number of cars? We have something similar... How did you justify such a measurement and where do you turn to? Unfortunately, our road is not municipal, so you might have to turn to Trafikverket. We've also had a completely new area built which uses the road by us and moreover, not
Säterkvist: It turned out that the wall was not load-bearing. I hired two carpenters, with engineering training, both of whom could confirm that it was okay to demolish.
Alexander Tannerdal: Hi! We are planning a basement renovation to eliminate as many risky constructions as possible. It involves two rooms, both having 2 out of 4 walls as exterior walls. Currently, it is framed with wooden studs, insulated, and has wood paneling. Behind the paneling, there are both radiator pipes and electrical installations. Our intention is to keep a framed wall to maintain the installation space.
Ammonithogge: [citat] There will be two reaction forces, so ideally, there should be two pillars in a row screwed together with construction screws, considering the risk of buckling. One should also consider how the load is transferred at the bottom of the pillars; otherwise, deformations may occur in the upper floor structure. Additionally, a support length of 45 mm is not sufficient. Therefore, two pillars
Zwännzån: Bumping up this old thread as I am facing something similar myself. I currently have floor chipboard where a 20mm solid floor will be laid. In front of the tile stove, a ca 60x40 large tile will be placed as a hearth pad, which is 9mm thick. Is it still ardex s48 that's recommended? Was wondering if it would be possible to glue with tec7 or something similar otherwise? Then there's the matter of
sturnus: När jag sitter vid ett bord är jag intresserad av vad som finns på bordet och vilka som sitter vid bordet, inte vem som går på toaletten först. The above render shows the maximum position of the right chair at the table.
tompalito: [citat] [citat] This is what the wall looks like, standing plank on 50 mm studs. Is this what is called a plank wall? [/QUOTE]
paradisetpaberget: [citat] Jumping in and asking... tips on where I can find a saw to get this? Searching but hard to find... circular sawed
RoTe: [citat] Just lay carpet on the stairs and it will look nice. I like the classic: https://mattjatten.com/produkter/trapp-klippan-beige/ But this is more modern: https://www.jula.se/catalog/hem-och-hushall/heminredning/mattor/trappstegsmattor/trappstegsmatta-022958/
Oldboy: That moisture/frost damage may be due to ground water (rain and snow) running towards the foundation and/or that the ground level is far too high (close to the brick).
nybyggarn3: When this appeared in the feed, I became interested as well. Especially about life in a villa carriage in southern Spain.
RoTe: Repair mortar? Sounds like it from the name, I think.
Testarn: I renovated two rooms in a townhouse earlier, and there the studs had warped and aligned poorly, but there it was significantly different. I stripped up masonite and glued one or two strips on the studs that needed it. On some studs, it was only partially covered with masonite. Glued with construction adhesive. Then I used a belt sander to bring down the level where needed. It turned out well
bryggarebob: Hi, I am going to install door casings and new baseboards in the mountain cabin. The plan is allmoge style and I'm googling around for cost-effective options as there will be a few meters to put up. I find that Biltema of all places sells door casings for about 90 SEK/220 cm: https://www.biltema.se/bygg/beslag/golvlister/foder-allmoge-69-x-15-mm-2000049980 And is 69 mm "standard" in terms of
BirgitS: Elfas was an example so that you could see a type of board that works, I didn't mean for you to buy those specifically. It's certainly fine to drill into concrete, many houses have concrete walls.
Inteno-: [citat] No I'm not on it now, it will be in a few months. But thank you, I will see how it ends.
Håbbe01: Restorers typically use historic plaster which is solely lime-based (+sand+water) instead of today's plaster that contains cement.
Jan_G: Google Lofttrappa or Spartrappa. And select images when you get the results. Then just indulge in various solutions ;-)
Discoman: [citat] Do you need a beam for load-bearing function? Otherwise, I would have milled a little deeper so that the cabling goes inside the wall.
Dr Benz: How do I route the pipes under the bench? The incoming will be at the floor angle to the right to be able to enter the crawl space. But what should I use in each section to minimize connections? Prisol and hide them as high up as possible? Are there any flexible pipes that can avoid a lot of joints? Or maybe even use Pex instead? Hilfe bitte.