Building Materials and Construction Technology
datja: Or with gypsum plaster
Peter321: Reviving this thread as I'm considering doing the same thing in our basement, which is going to be a home theater. There's no downside if it's soundproofed reasonably well up to the upper floor, but thermal insulation isn't really needed since the basement will be heated, and it's probably beneficial if the heat continues up through the floor. Does the insulation affect how solid the floor above
ABBD: [citat] Sounds like a good plan! Thanks for the help!
Tochvi: Renoverar för närvarande ett hus byggt 1949. Konstruktionen är reveterad puts fasad på stående plank. Tanken är att isolera huset innåt då huset har en total yta på 400kvm och fasaden är putsad. (Betala några kvm för att slippa putsa om hela fasaden). Min initiala plan var att gå på med träfiberisolering direkt på det befintliga ytskiktet som består av tapetserad tretex men har
JoakiNMilsson: [citat] Thanks for the answer, then I'll probably build my own frames in plywood! 😊
fribygg: [citat] Buy planed oak 21*195 and saw it down to the desired measurement.
bfred: [citat] Thanks, it will be fun to see how I solve it! Each room has its own pipe, though only one per room. The basement maintains normal indoor temperature year-round and is used as living space. However, I don't have a need for underfloor heating in that corridor, so it will probably be turned off. The comment about "at most" 10-12 degrees was just in case it would be needed for some reason. As
Intet: If the asbestos is bound in an adhesive, it is not a problem at all.
Knuten26: [citat] Support the entire vault with steel props and bracing on the sides and parallel to the load-bearing wall. Then you can replace the whole wall.
goosen: [citat] How did you do it? Did a similar renovation and put plastic on the ceiling before putting up new slats. I have been up in the attic and cut holes in the old diffusion paper. Previous paper was damaged in many places. I was told that there shouldn't be a problem with moisture on the warm side anyway. Previously had problems with black mold in the attic due to leakage of humid air from
Vardon: I have cut 6.5 m and 9 m on an old solosåg so what are you cutting with and how long do you need?
Nils45: Late reply, but I found a picture of my modernization. [bild]
mexitegel: Wouldn't be worried about buying that house. As mentioned, if it's okay now after 50 years, it will last another 50 years with normal maintenance.
pjgb: The profile itself is called omega anyway, but upside down. I think the profile looks extruded, it is rounded on the inner corners towards the rule but all other corners seem to be completely right-angled, difficult to bend and get such sharp corners.
Janala55: [citat] Hehe, I understand. Also thinking that if nothing more has happened in over 40 years, it might feel a bit overkill.
13th Marine: Saw a clip as recently as yesterday where they used foam sealant to fill with.
Andreas Lindahl: [citat] Good suggestion to screw from underneath and then lift up each "wall". Thanks!
estrandler: Hej! Står här med en riven vägg rakt under en balk. För att få taket jämnt behöver jag bygga upp det. Min plan är gipsputs följt av spackel och sen målning. Gjort det på andra ställen med framgång. Har dock två funderingar. 1. Kommer det att fästa mot stålbalken? Om inte, räcker det med primer eller hur beter jag mig för att få det att fästa. Är glad amatör och bygghandeln
wisan: [citat] Thanks for all the great tips. I'll have to give it some thought : -)
Skellyhoe_daqueri: [citat] Thank you so much for the help 🙏
Måns Axelsson: Hi! Like many others, I've unintentionally bought a prefab house... 1.5 stories with a basement and a detached garage. Has anyone here made similar changes? The previous owner replaced all the windows and doors in the whole house about 20 years ago, and it seems to be well done. We are considering: • closing an existing window • installing a new horizontal window • converting a full window
Bullabengt: [citat] Thanks for the input, I'll keep this in mind 👍
Arkus: [citat] The thing about wiring on the outside seems interesting to me! It's the only way if you want the CLT surface visible indoors and no surface wiring, as I see it. But in my view, this means the electrician must work outdoors while the frame is exposed to the weather. Wasn't this a problem? I understand you can have weather coverage around the entire construction, but it's quite costly.
pacman42: It looks like moisture that got trapped there during cold storage. I've seen it in summer cottages, among other places. I wouldn't have worried about that at all.
Skärkarl: I'm also considering an electric fence, but there are some challenges with it. As mentioned, it's a wooded plot and often branches and larger limbs fall when it's windy. There's a risk that the fence could be completely non-functional until I'm there next time to remove what short-circuits it. But I'm not ruling out the electric fence either, it's much faster to build and I already have upcoming
Trelleborgbyggaren: Hello I am planning to convert an old cowshed into a gym and hobby/film room, so I need it to have a normal room temperature. It has cast iron single-pane windows that I want to keep. I will insulate with steel studs and 15 cm of insulation on the inside of the room to retain the heat. The walls are 70 cm thick but very cold. Built of brick and cobblestone. It is an external wall that will be