I am learning about load-bearing capacity in houses before an upcoming house purchase. In one of the houses we like, we would like to divide the large bedroom and put a door in the corridor. But it struck me that it might be expensive if the wall is load-bearing.

The house appears to have truss roofs. What do you think, is the blue-marked wall a load-bearing wall? The red marking shows how we would like to do with the wall and door.
 
  • Attic space with wooden trusses and insulation. The truss design suggests the roof structure.
  • Basement floor plan layout with potential bathroom, boiler room, pantry, hobby/laundry area, and recreation room. Spaces for washing machine and dryer are marked.
  • Floor plan showing a house with proposed changes; a red line indicates a new wall and door in a bedroom. A blue line shows a potentially load-bearing wall.
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AlfJ
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My guess is that you are absolutely right, the trusses are only supported by the longitudinal outer walls.

Let's see what the more knowledgeable have to say.
 
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ritzzz
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It is very likely that the partition wall is not load-bearing. Our house from '72 with a similar cold attic is the same. But you probably won't be completely sure without a closer examination.
 
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Kortealboga
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G g.kraft said:
It is very likely that the middle wall is not load-bearing. Our house from 72 with a similar cold attic is like that. But you probably won't be completely sure without a closer examination.
How can we tell which walls are load-bearing if we go up to the attic?
 
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Luvan
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Truss roofs, I would argue, are usually self-supporting. However, they can sag a bit if they lack support in the middle. We have similar trusses, with 7.8m between the inner walls and an opening of 3.8m, where the roof sags 1-2cm in the middle, but it's not something you normally notice. However, I've seen on the forum that there have been house manufacturers who have used truss roofs that were not dimensioned to be self-supporting. If you can measure the timber, you can check if they are adequately dimensioned based on the span and snow zone: https://www.traguiden.se/konstrukti...-av-takkonstruktion/4.2.2takstolsdimensioner/
 
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Appendix and 2 others
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Even though the wall is not load-bearing, you should expect that the ceiling may bend down a bit if the wall is removed.
 
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DiscoDuck and 4 others
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H hempularen said:
Even if the wall is not load-bearing, you have to consider that the ceiling might sag a little if the wall is removed.
I wasn't planning to remove the entire wall, just to install a door. And then put up a new wall so that the large bedroom becomes two rooms. I tried to draw it out in red 😁

So, it's not a large area where the wall will be opened either. I also have a feeling that there was a door there before.. We are going there tomorrow and then we'll be knocking thoroughly on the walls.
 
R ritzzz said:
I wasn't planning on removing the entire wall, just installing a door. And then putting up a new wall so that the large bedroom becomes two rooms. I tried to draw it out in red 😁

So it's not a large area where the wall will be opened either. I also have a feeling that there was a door there before.. We're going there tomorrow and will do some thorough knocking on the walls.
Just installing a door shouldn't be of much significance.
And you can always construct support for the door.
 
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Appendix and 1 other
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M MrDizzy said:
Installing just a door shouldn't matter much.
And you can always build support for the door.
Yeah, it doesn't feel that complicated after all.
 
If the house is right, it can be fixed. With a wind like that, you can reinforce the rafters if needed. I had confidently assumed it would work, then whether it costs 100kr or 30tkr to solve it may not be such a big issue in this context.
 
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ritzzz
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