Building Materials and Construction Technology
krikur: Addition: Tracked cellplast is what has been talked about, not tracked spån.
Manja-20: [citat] I want it to be as rigid as possible, so I thought it would require some support beams on 460 with about 300 in between or similar along the short side.
SvanteC: Depending on how thick the wall is, it's probably easiest to just frame up with 45s or 70s. Then add insulation and drywall, possibly OSB.
sunnis: [citat] [citat] You should always have paper tape in all joints, there are lots of good videos on YouTube on how to do it and tips and tricks. But since you've got a main joint you just need to be extra careful there. That's fine, as I said, don't redo all the small mistakes. You’ll never finish that way. Spend the time plastering instead and move forward with the renovation. Small room, small
Joselifine: Still waiting for them to come and lay the epoxy. It shouldn't rain, but can it be applied even if it's cold outside? The construction company claimed that no waterproofing layer was needed between the fine finish and the lower balcony floor on top of the metal, does anyone know if this is true? Maybe it'll still be okay now that I'm getting a waterproof layer of epoxy on top (although, of
Rickard.: [citat] It’s usually grön-fri they apply, but I really have no idea what it is and if it should be avoided indoors.
z_bumbi: Remove the side of the wardrobe and place a post at the back and one where the door attaches. Saw shelves that fill out the entire space, i.e., the existing wardrobe and the nook next to it. Then put a board in front of the opening on the nook and over the wardrobes (if you sacrifice that part and don't put doors all the way up). Since the shelves probably can't be moved, you can attach the board
BirgitS: [citat] Lip is a manufacturer.
BirgitS: The transition strips that I have and have had have been attached with some kind of thick double-sided tape.
patfred: [citat] Thanks, I will take a look. Yes, I think it is pressed into a groove.
z_bumbi: Put down a mat so you won't have to paint, and it will be less slippery (of course, this depends on the type of mat).
hejhejdajje: Hi! It's me again with my wall. It turned out not to be load-bearing, so we've knocked it down. However, what's left are the boards (I don't know what they're called) that make up the "frame" on the ceiling and floor. We have a layer of sawdust in the attic that we're afraid might collapse if we remove the ceiling part. I'm attaching some pictures here for explanation. What I'm wondering now is
Dowser4711: If you have a recessed sliding door behind the wall, it becomes difficult to use Molly plugs or similar that expand on the inside, yes. (It *can* work if you have the option to remove the door and measure exactly how much clearance you have, but the risk of scratches on the door is significant.) Attaching bookshelves to drywall without having any expansion behind feels risky. Can you attach a
skanfals: [citat] No, it's not visible from the ground. Function is number 1. But if it's possible to find something that blends in, I would of course prefer that.
keko: Here's how I did it. First, I set the sill. With the help of studs, I measured where the wall plate would land directly above the sill. Tapped in the notched studs. Toenailed studs into the sill. Tapped in the support beams. Made sure everything was plumb. Screwed together. Used a jack and a stud to apply some pressure to the rafters to be able to force in the support beams.
pjodden: [citat] The glulam beam is the ridge beam and the steel beam supports the two ridge beams. So no attic or upper floor. Currently, it's only the outer roof that loads the beams apart from their own weight. Previously, there were also 7 large skylights (12x16) that have now been removed, and the roof was insulated before. After the reinforcement, it is planned to insulate and install a ceiling,
alacs: [citat] Hi, now it's time to open up, but not 305 cm, instead 180 cm. Is the dimension 90*315 for the beam still applicable, or can we reduce the dimension? Regards Ylva
Bomski: [citat] That's also a solution, yes. Tricky this
ÉlPon: It seems there was a mistake in my calculation so that I can have a 45mm regel anyway... The U-blocks that make up the last row are only 19cm as opposed to the Exakt-blocks which are 197mm. I had calculated based on a 20cm height. With 45x220 it becomes too short to have anything to screw into, so I will still go for 2 x 45x145mm in width as sill where the innermost one is screwed into the
TowaTei: [citat] Yes, and how nice that it has got curious and interested owners!
BirgitS: See here: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/hur-riva-eternitkanaler-i-kaellaren.469244/#post-4928673
Tekniker: Spackle sand spackle sand… etc :p [bild]
Lity: [citat] I've been thinking about writing something based on industry standards, so that if someone reads in the future with a similar problem, they have something concrete to refer to. But I'm thinking I'll wait until everything is sorted out and then write everything together.
morr: Do as others have suggested and install a trim/fodder or whatever it's called on the "inside" of the hole. Let it protrude a few mm (like 5mm?) outside the wall. When it protrudes, you avoid seeing any crooked cut wallpaper and it's still possible to open the hatches. You might be able to put some type of sealant between the trim and wall/wallpaper if needed.
BirgitS: [citat] https://www.bolius.dk/er-der-asbest-i-gipsonitplader-23698
CarlJohansson1: Hi forum! I am renovating the kitchen and the adjacent room which we plan to use as a dining room. I have leveled the floors and demolished a built-in cabinet that was in the corner of that room. The problem now is that the wall in the picture consists of a chimney and plaster that is original since the house was built in 1916. The plaster is really loose and comes off as soon as you touch it!