Building Materials and Construction Technology
JR_83: [citat] Thanks for the response! Great idea, I’ll contact the truss factory and check with them. Best regards Jonas
sjoerik: Hi, Old thread, but I faced the same problem now when the roof was going to be nailed. My dad had a simple trick to set the nails hidden which I thought I'd share: turn the plank so you have the groove towards you instead of the tongue and nail at the top of the groove: [bild] Then the tongue of the next plank will hide the nail. I did it this way in the other room (had already set in the first
Sir Duke: [citat] How much would the cabinet protrude into the room next to the stove? Or does the cabinet fit entirely inside the niche?
Albin Emet: Hi! We have bought a BESTÅ TV bench from Ikea and plan to place it against a gypsum wall with single gypsum board. Unfortunately, a sliding door cuts into the middle of the wall. So, if you screw anything in, the door will be obstructed. The cabinets are supposed to be screwed together at the sides, but could that be enough? The TV bench is essentially a square with small cabinets all around,
Stefan N: 5mm and hard sounds like asbestos cement or some cousin to it.
Ellinor Hellquist80: Hello How long do you need to stay away from home after waxing with Osmo and applying that over the wax? According to the floor installer, it smells strong? Can you wax a 10-year-old oak floor? He mentioned there could be a reaction? What does he mean by that? Someone didn't understand what he meant?
bryggarebob: Hello, I'm planning to cut an IKEA Sinarp drawer front to make a shelf, and I want to avoid chipping the veneer. I will be cutting it in both length and width, and both sides will be flush between a cabinet and a wall in the kitchen. How would you do it? I know you can tape it and use a sacrificial board. Any other tips? Which saw would you use? Here are the tools I have at home to choose from:
guslar: I think it is, will check. Get back to you tonight!
Rickard.: Lightweight concrete is very difficult to assign kg to as it varies enormously, and the only way to really know is to test. I think lightweight concrete screws are the best for heavy mounting, but they also become somewhat sensitive to jerks and impacts. With lightweight concrete screws, 100% of the threaded part should always be in the lightweight concrete.
joakim62537: Hi Erik. Old thread but I found the same/similar tiles in my house. How did it look with asbestos?
AndersS: Depending on appearance requirements, but I would go with chainsaw. If it's indoors, it will be the electric chainsaw.
klaskarlsson: Good idea. Recycling and up-cycling are always good as long as the parquet has some thickness, so it should work excellently. You probably need to paint the outside for it to withstand the weather and wind, of course...
hejhejdajje: We have made some progress in the renovation and the wall is gone! The next stage is to build everything back up so we have relatively even and nice walls that can be painted. Aware that it's an old house and I'm not after perfection - but now to my question! Part of the load-bearing wall consists of a plastered chimney breast that we plan to use next year when we build in a stove on the floor
Nobbe_1: There will be a bedside table on one side of the bed that you screw into the wall, but it is not very heavy, just a few smaller shelves on a "pillar". [citat]
rqx: Hi, I have (I think) oil-hardened masonite under the concrete tiles on the roof. I said to remove a ventilation hood, how do you fix that? Haven't been up on the roof and lifted, but at a minimum, it's a 120mm hole for the vent pipe depending on the design of the hood.
Vofflan74: We are in the process of replacing the kitchen floor with herringbone parquet on top of underfloor heating that also needs to be replaced with new. Now the builder says we need 45 mm from the subfloor underneath. That's 30 mm higher than today. We think it will be too high. Does anyone have any tips for a solution? Thin material? Or rethink?
fribygg: I think you should try it yourself with vermeculite boards, they can be bought at hardware stores for a few hundred kronor and are easily worked with a handsaw and a Morakniv to fit the fireplace.
hapazard: [citat] Very few situations where the fastener will fail before the material surrounding it, yes. Maybe underground or underwater. Screws might be a good idea to use a higher rust protection class outdoors since it can be difficult to remove them (if that's a concern). As fribygg writes, everything was nailed untreated in the past and many 100-year-old facades are still standing.
MathiasS: https://www.gvk.se/branschregler/tatskikt/plastmatta-som-tat-och-ytskikt/
citgot: Thanks. I'll have to think about it some more. But I'm not finding that many options either.
HEA260: [citat] I just calculated with my MathCad file for the current project (should almost be considered cheating haha). And you are right!! I had gotten the impression that it played a major role for some reason. Thank you for this discussion! I am learning a lot.
RanSan23: Is there any reason why you shouldn't have any insulation? Is there a particular heating system?
InsidersUnited: If it is original, we can probably guess sawdust or some other fluffy material that was available in the surrounding area at the time of construction.
prototypen: Detailed drawing... Just screw it together from form plywood. If you need a detailed drawing for the form, do you have the knowledge to mix concrete for the right strength and reinforce correctly? Why not buy it ready-made? Protte
Rolle85: Yes, they are an option. I don't understand how they managed before with the old windows and placed mortar all the way against it. Considering placing something against the frame and plastering towards it, then filling the final gap with soft sealant.