I need a sill under the intermediate floor that rests on a leca wall. It needs to be 3cm thick on an 11 m wall and 4 cm thick on another 2 m wall so that everything is level and at the same floor level as the existing house.
Can I just take any board in nearby dimensions? Normally, you might use the same type as the floor joists (45x220), but I'm wondering if it really needs to be that? Or are regular boards too soft?
It seems there is 34x195 planed spruce G4-2. Would it work if you manage to get it? Or is it better to find a band saw and cut off 1cm from a 45x220? (I don't know where it can be found)
This and then a regular sill at 45x220 by the short wall would make it reasonably level with the existing floor as I might have estimated a bit low on the existing floor.
I haven't quite figured out yet how the floor joists are then attached. I've got the idea that the sill might be anchored to the concrete blocks (or rather the concrete in the top U-block) and that this then acts as an attachment point for the floor joists with something like angle brackets. If that's the case, it might not work well with OSB and similar materials?
It seems hard to find 34x195 when searching for this dimension, so I'll probably have to find someone who can cut 1cm off a 45x220 beam instead.
Bulobrickor, which I haven't heard of, seem to be something with leveling shims. But my wall is otherwise +/-2mm level, so if I just get the right thickness on the sill and maybe some paper, it should be fine.
Raised wooden floor joists between foundation walls are usually anchored into cast U-blocks with threaded rods and anchor compound. Don't forget the sill insulation in between. Alternatively, it can be hooked into the wall.
It seems difficult to find 34x195 when searching for this dimension, so I will probably have to find someone who can cut 1cm off from a 45x220 beam instead.
Raw plan 34x195mm, 65.1kr/m from psh.se
If it feels expensive, you can check nearby dim 32x200mm, 36.8kr/m from horndalsvirkesotlet.se
Rough planed 34x195mm, 65.1kr/m from psh.se
If it feels expensive, you can check out the nearby dimension 32x200mm, 36.8kr/m from horndalsvirkesotlet.se
The price per meter is no problem but probably not realistic to transport south of Stockholm. Got a quote of 890kr to plane off 1cm on 12 meters 45x220. Then 12 meters of lumber about 1000kr.
Raised wooden joists between foundation walls are usually anchored into cast u-blocks with threaded rods and anchor compound. Don't forget the sole plate insulation in between. Alternatively, they can be hooked into the wall.
You mean that the threaded rod is fixed into the sole plate which I was after? (that it's the sole plate that holds onto the foundation) If it is supposed to sit so securely with a threaded rod, you can't use just any material, I think. But do you really have to bother with threaded rods and anchor compound? Aren't nail plugs/facade plugs sufficient? (or expansion bolts). Facade plugs are apparently often used to attach the wall's sole plate when you have regular lecablock without concrete.
See picture of how it turns out with a 220mm wide stud, it barely reaches the concrete (the gray square). The black is insulation. Maybe one should use two shorter studs/boards instead where you attach the inner one to the concrete and the outer one is there mainly to fill out and doesn't need to be fastened with anything special. Then you attach the flooring with angle plates to the sole plate, if it isn't too thin as in my case.
In reality, the u-block is cut 45 degrees in the corner, and there is also a sole plate in the other direction.
The price per meter is not a concern but probably not realistic to transport south of Stockholm. ¨'
Got a price of 890 SEK to plane off 1cm on 12 meters 45x220. Then 12 meter beam about 1000 SEK.
A real hardware store will get what you need if you don't take care of it yourself.
If the price is not an issue, you can do as you plan...
Well, the price matters for my entire construction I meant that 65kr per meter is not the end of the world since 45x220 plus cutting/planing is more expensive.
I have an XL-bygg nearby, so maybe I can bring something home even if they probably charge extra.
But isn't it better to do it like this according to the picture instead? For example, 2 pieces of 32x150 which makes a total width of 300, so you can reach further into the concrete channel. The inner sill is attached with, for example, an expansion bolt, and the outer acts as a filler and is attached with something simple.
Or any rule around 150mm that the circular saw might reach if you cut from both sides.
Yes, but as you can see from my drawing, there is nothing to attach to if it is, for example, 15 cm. The two plates in the last image are precisely 15 cm. Then there is only cell foam to screw into since the insulation should be on the outside. There is a narrow edge at the outermost part but the concrete channel is the strongest attachment.
It is a U-block where the outer black square is a U-block insulation and the inner gray is concrete + 2 reinforcing bars.
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.