Building Materials and Construction Technology
BirgitS: [citat] https://www.bolius.dk/er-der-asbest-i-gipsonitplader-23698
CarlJohansson1: Hi forum! I am renovating the kitchen and the adjacent room which we plan to use as a dining room. I have leveled the floors and demolished a built-in cabinet that was in the corner of that room. The problem now is that the wall in the picture consists of a chimney and plaster that is original since the house was built in 1916. The plaster is really loose and comes off as soon as you touch it!
Tobyk_75: Hello, I made an outdoor staircase. The cast concrete is becoming lighter (light gray) than the cement I used (dark gray) to fill the holes. Is there a simple way to color these darker small spots afterwards, with something like a pen (similar to the one used for tile grout), so that they match the color of the concrete?
hejhejdajje: [citat] Thank you BirgitS! I think I'll have an engineer come here and educate me a bit after all.
DahlEricsson1000: [citat] I had the same problem and bought smyglist which I painted with outdoor paint.
peter.linkan: [citat] Thanks for your description!
AndersS: Place a piece of tape and first test how it fits before doing various other things ;)
OTGI: Is there any reason why regular plaster b, plastered on plaster mesh is not an option? I think it was quite uncommon to use plaster mesh in 1937, so if you chip away all the old plaster, attach the mesh, and otherwise plaster according to all the rules of the art, it should last for a few decades, as long as drainage/roof drainage is not a major problem that needs to be looked at.
fribygg: [citat] [citat] If you're going to have gravel around the bottom part of the form pipe, you can fill before casting and skip the block, it doesn't need to be overworked.
EBF22: [citat] [citat] Hello! How did you solve it? Can you share the exact layers from the inside to the outside?
ByggareNic: I think you're mistaken. I repaired concrete that had been frost damaged myself this summer, but I used housefix. It became rock hard. Housefix is expensive, though. But it works like putty that becomes rock hard. Much harder than concrete. For small cracks, it's just a matter of removing all loose material and applying putty. But I had a large corner that became enormous as I started chiseling
Processengine: How can you find information about how many sheets the packages of insulation in different thicknesses contain, such as Paroc's stone wool panels (95x565x1170)? You can calculate it via the number of m2, 95 mm contains 8 sheets. But it would be handy if you could read it directly. Is there any supplier that bothers to list this?
elAnders66: Hello, I have a living room that was added on an end wall in the 60s, and now I would like to open up the door opening to about 4.5 meters for an open floor plan. How do I dimension the load with glulam or steel beam? The house was built in the 30s with double standing 2"5 tongue and groove. 1 and 1/2 story house, tile roof [bild]
Gson76: We are building a laundry room (3.6 x 3.5 m) and a utility room (1.8 x 3.6 m) in a barn. The framing is cc30 and there is a form plywood as a subfloor. We are encapsulating the compartments in plastic and filling them with Finja EPS concrete up to the top of the joists. After pouring the EPS, we will lay reinforcements (5 mm), attach underfloor heating pipes 12 or 16 mm and then self-level with
pjk11: What is the price range for it? How is it to set things up on the wall with that? Is it porous?
-MH-: I'm joining in! Does it feel a bit advanced with the angle when it is about 15cm from the end of the sparse panel to the first rafter you can attach it to? Skip or screw it in?
Eryl: [citat] There are painted surfaces around the window that need to be removed, so as you say, maybe good to use that kind of stone glue foam, do you mean?
ulfbostrom: [citat] Probably older long pappspik that is now coming loose.
tergo: [citat] If you can't find a ready-made sheet metal at the construction markets that fits, you can take measurements of how the sheet metal should look and visit a tinsmith's workshop to have one made. Otherwise, you can call a tinsmith to fix it for you. [citat] The casings should end a little above, you can possibly fill the gap with tec 7.
halj: Found here earlier but seems to be out of stock now. https://www.wsochcompany.se/for-betong/tillsatsmedel-till-betong/flytmedel-till-betong/
mcax: [citat] I only used windproof paper behind the panel against the plaster, hoping that it will be enough. Have had my father-in-law as a bit of a sounding board since I've read most of what I know. :) There is no insulation, I'm not done inside. Since we had a child between building seasons. We haven't decided how we're going to do it yet insulation-wise. If we should even have any :)
Wennbergp: Sounds good and feels simpler to be able to lay all the flooring in one go. Will need to kortla where the walls are to be erected. Walls for the bathroom will probably be erected standing on the joists as it won't have the same flooring there. Best regards, Peter
Hybris6: Thank you for the response, yes, I can use a rule instead of a brick, but what I'm really wondering about is how to think about the overhanging part that is not supported by the cast piece. Whether it is significantly affected by the weight of the bath or if it just needs to withstand the "tipping" force...
StorBagaren: https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/95x95-plank-hyvlat-c14-l-4-2m-820809509542 I see that several do not recommend a 95x95 post in load-bearing construction, despite C14 grading. Is glulam the way to go, alternatively 2 glued-together 45x95?
Drsnuggels: Hello, I will try to brick up a hole in the outer wall after a fireplace. The blocks in the wall today are 15 cm wide and 25 cm high. I don't know the length. From the 1960s. Does anyone know which blocks are in the wall today or another brand with similar dimensions? Today, it seems that lightweight concrete blocks are 20 cm in height, but maybe that's not a problem if it's easy to saw the
amoreex: [citat] but still have to keep color at home.. I almost forgot to paint end grain:crysmile:
selzzx: [citat] Hi again, it went so-so, I tried again not to cut the cable but that's how it ended up. So the cabinet is gone but the cable and the outlet went :(
Isakare: [citat] Probably built differently at that time, I had it in my house from -66.