The chipboards help reduce the risk of the studs buckling. As long as there is no snow, the risk is not that great, but one should still be observant.
 
J justusandersson said:
The chipboards help to reduce the risk of the studs buckling. As long as there is no snow, the risk is not that great, but one should still be observant.
Ok, the plan is for the work to be completed shortly, but I will still leave the boards in place for now.
 
Wasn't there an upper floor? then the snow load can't have much significance.

There is no risk of buckling with or without snow. it is sprinkled with studs.
 
Villa vista Villa vista said:
Wasn't there an upper floor? Then the snow load can't have much significance.


There is no risk of buckling with or without snow. It is sprinkled with joists
upper floor exists.
 
The particleboard doesn't matter as long as there's no rave party upstairs.

Don't forget to stamp both sides before the studs go away.
 
Villa vista Villa vista said:
The chipboard does not matter as long as there's no rave party on the upper floor.

Don't forget to brace both sides before the studs are removed
Hmm, on the kitchen side, the ceiling was lowered to install spotlights in 2008, so I don't think I have "solid ground" to brace. But I expect the carpenters to handle it.
 
The kitchen side feels most important regarding the stamp as the short side of the floor cassette in the kitchen rests solely on that wall.
 
Villa vista Villa vista said:
the kitchen side feels most important regarding the prop since the short side of the floor cassette in the kitchen rests solely on that wall
Do you think so? Attaching plans of the entrance floor
 
  • Floor plan sketch showing dimensions and load calculations for entrance level with pen placed on paper.
  • Blueprint of a ground floor plan showing living room, two bedrooms, kitchen, and other rooms with annotated measurements on beige paper.
So it is the wall the pen is pointing at
 
completely wrong of me, as I now perceive it, the panels above the kitchen are not resting on the wall but it's only the living room panels that are resting on that wall.

But I would probably prop up both sides anyway, you never know how it was actually built.
 
The kitchen cassette should rest on 2 outer walls, the wall towards the bathroom and hall. But I will keep your words in mind.
 
it is correct
 
A alacs said:
hm on the kitchen side, the ceiling was lowered to install spotlights in 2008, so I don't think I have "solid ground" to brace against there. But I expect the carpenters to solve it.
The kitchen ceiling should be battened down. If you know the direction of the battens, you can distribute the bracing forces across them using a solid batten. For bracing purposes, I have used 170x45 and 220x45, which I was going to use later anyway to stabilize the floor structure. Considering the floor construction, I would recommend similar force distribution on the living room side as well.
 
J justusandersson said:
Yes, exactly! Try with 90x315 and 90x90.
Hi, now it's time to open up, but not 305 cm, instead 180 cm. Is the dimension 90*315 for the beam still applicable, or can we reduce the dimension?

Regards
Ylva
 
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