Building Materials and Construction Technology
plåtrickard: [citat] I think it's the principle you need to look at, and then scale up with stronger materials.
MaZtoR: Byggmax is expensive. https://www.rinkabyror.se/artikel/markavloppsror-160-pvc-3m-m-muff/ https://www.rinkabyror.se/artikel/markavloppsror-pp-sn8-110-x-3m/ 6 meters at Rinkaby costs less than 3m at Byggmax.
Stefan1972: if one is unaccustomed to plastering and that dictates the choice of material, I would then prefer to use hydraulic lime mortar. It's similar to plastering as well, but it's much easier to improve and alter. It becomes soft and not as hard and permanent as cement plaster. If it goes completely wrong, you can, for example, just take a wire brush and shape it once it has set.
Christoffer L: Check if they have any suitable pipes here e.g. https://inredningsror.se/
Installation: [citat] screws in the plaster are enough. There are probably studs at 45 cc. If it's close to the ceiling, there is a skp there. At least 25mm high.
fribygg: It is possible to do it yourself, by hand, but it requires time and persistence (my great-grandfather tried, he cast a slab, built the basement and rolled the old house into place)
Stefan1972: Doesn't exactly look like a catalog house. If there are no drawings, the appearance of the trusses probably tells a lot. If they are flimsy, I think only the heart wall in each room plays any significant role.
Smoothie: It turned out quite well in the end, after a lot of fixing and filling. On the other side (the kitchen), renovation gypsum will be used instead.
ToRy: After a tip from a brewing neighbor, I went with standard pressure-treated NTR-A. The parts that will be continuously submerged in water were encased in plastic pipes. It remains to be seen how long it will last....
Ironside: If the sill had been treated, as many were around the 70s, I assume you would have noticed a strong smell immediately? From what I understand, this can emit toxic gases. However, I can't find anything indicating that rotten and now dried-out wood poses any health hazard?
richardtenggren: You can compare the flexural rigidity, which is the product of the modulus of elasticity and the moment of inertia. To calculate the moment of inertia you need, you can set it up like this: I_steel = (E_wood * I_wood) / E_steel
fribygg: Lecasten is simple and cheap. Regular red brick in whole brick is better but harder and more expensive to obtain and lay.
WhoInDaHouse: [citat] thanks for the reply! Yes, it might be that. It does smell just like old gasoline :) Well, I guess I'll have to air it out until it's gone..
Matti_75: [citat] But now you are really rambling. Since there is no standing top plate or beam in the wall, it is the vertical studs that carry the load. The studs and other elements only prevent the studs from moving sideways and thus buckling.
Isakare: It's calm, especially in a garage. Your joints won't be on the same board.
heimlaga: I have experienced that. It started to smoke behind the panel. It quickly became necessary to rip it off and use 20 liters of water.
BirgitS: [citat] Then you need to have a large distance because everything gets hot when you heat it with the stove.
Hampusca: A bit late in the thread here but if it's soundproofing effect you want, insulate in the interior wall! Building new myself and I put 70mm insulation plus OSB board + single drywall. Becomes solid and good.
Installation: [citat] [citat] Or you can cut the whole thing off straight from the corner to the outer wall. Splicing parquet like that with general seams will look like duck droppings. Depending on what kind of parquet you have, of course. But give it a try, it's hard to make it look nice. It can't be that many square meters to lay in that whole niche anyway.
mojjen: I need tips on how to conceal the transition between the floors in the stairwell. I've renovated an upper floor. And since the lower walls in the stairs have warped a bit, I haven't quite managed the fit between the upper and lower. The outer edges are aligned, but in the center, there's a significant "joint." Even worse, on one side it's at the top, and on the other, it's at the bottom, i.e.,
johan_bygger: This is quite an old thread, so it would be interesting to hear what you decided on. I myself am facing a similar situation with a non-insulated slab on grade. Due to budget reasons, I will probably opt for a similar solution as you did. I have thought a lot about this and concluded that the answer is not super simple. As you mentioned, moisture can come from the ground, but when you add some
Installation: [citat] Depends on which perspective you have when reading safe water. Tap water should always be installed without hidden joints. Some believe that VS can be installed with hidden joints. I would argue that hidden joints should be avoided. 2004 I have no idea exactly what the regulations said.
z_bumbi: Is it appropriate to have fiberglass exposed to moisture? If you don't have more air permeability, then why wood fiber concrete? It weighs quite little per unit volume.
Leif i Skåne: I built our entire sunroom with hidden screws, type ET-T from Essve. Glulam beams 115x420 where glulam beams 57x270 were screwed with ET-T screws. https://www.mynewsdesk.com/se/essve/videos/essve-konstruktionsskruv-et-t-12015 Very nice, no visible fastenings! Check out the ESSVE website. https://www.essve.com/sv/produkter/bygg--och-traskruv/konstruktionsskruv/et-t/konstruktionsskruv-et-t-corrseal/
Nära nog: Strange with round patterns that are so clear. When did the spots appear? Depending on where you live in the country (temperature) and if it occurs in connection with, for example, showering, cooking, or if there are suddenly a lot of people indoors, I would guess it's condensation water from the inside of the window/frame. But at the same time, it should be noticeable from the beginning in the
Sanazin: I know there will be double replies in a row, but I couldn't edit the post above. Now we know how to proceed in any case, thanks to you for the thought-provoker! Passepartout! Looks really nice around the "frame" and doesn't really disturb since they are so thin, so awesome!
it-snubben: Unfortunately, I can't find any pictures from the construction of it, it was so many years ago, so the only thing I can contribute with are pictures of how it looks today. But it's not a difficult construction, just a regular framework but only at half height. OSB board on both sides and gypsum on that. [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild]