Building Materials and Construction Technology
juggler: My chimney sweep's recommendations were to use only materials that can withstand recurring high temperatures for many years/decades when connecting to the chimney. I recall that there should be at least 15-20 cm of non-combustible and long-term heat-resistant material from inside the flue. Gypsum boards are not recommended as they become brittle(?) from heat after a number of years. What was
tobiias: Yes, the wall is framed, but not yet covered. But thanks for all the feedback. I don't know if I would call it a gamble to skip the rule though – it really feels like it will be quite stable anyway, but I wanted to check with more experienced builders if I had forgotten to consider something; rules for junction boxes and board joints and so on. But there are no problems in this case, so it
Chrissofsweden: I have thoroughly read the installation descriptions but can't make sense of what counts as radiation protection...? The stove (Jøtul 602F) will be placed in a corner, perpendicular to a log wall. That is, the short side will face a log wall and the long side towards a wooden kitchen counter. The part involving the kitchen counter (a short side) can have radiation protection built into it. But
Paul-Staffanstorp: [citat] Then you should tell him that it would have been his responsibility to build up the threshold before he laid the waterproofing membrane so he could have made a turn-up according to industry standards. It's his problem to do it professionally and take the necessary measures for this. You can't see the waterproofing membrane in your picture as it only lies under the tiles and ends where the
FiddeP: I put together the last two boards, so it became one and a half. Then I used a crowbar and roof supports, so it worked perfectly. Thanks for the help.
LLLVäxjö: [citat] Perfect, thanks. Took it from a large standalone wardrobe. Thanks to the others as well:)
Kevorkian: Hello, we have a house from the 30s and a few years ago an extension was made where parts of a new kitchen ended up. In the kitchen ceiling, they (I think) installed drywall with recessed spotlights. Now it has started to crack a little, and in a couple of places, you can see shifts between the sheets horizontally, meaning they are not quite flush anymore. From what I understand, this is due to
nattugglan11: [citat] thank you, yes a polishing should probably be done, old staircase.
nattugglan11: Yes, there are metal hinges for glass doors that you can "clamp on" I've seen, I don't think it requires drilling holes. But it's worth looking into whether it's possible to drill smoothly in tempered glass or not, I think it's possible with a small sharp tile/ceramic drill bit.
Krawk: The beam is then placed on top of the lower frame with suitable building brackets that connect the two. The lower frame of the truss thus hangs on the beam. However, keep in mind that it should also be possible to get the beam up into the attic.
akb123: Yes, it's important not to give up, even if you have a severe and fatal illness, even though society might think it would be best if I died quickly...
snuttjulle: Hard to see from the pictures, but my first reaction is that it's not a beam but a ventilation duct. Now, it might still be a problem to move it, but it will probably be easier than if it is a load-bearing beam.
snuttjulle: That you don't wet the thicker one was new info, but it's still nailed for sure, right? And a big disadvantage with hard board is that it's a hassle to put anything up on it since you need the big hammer to make a small hole. With gypsum, you just poke it with something sharp.
MTTJ: Found a calculation program on Moelven's site where I calculated on the beam under the floor joists. Got that the following would work: 90*225 Deflection 10mm 90*270 Deflection 6mm 90*315 Deflection 4mm The column load would be 21.2 kN Then columns with dimensions 90x90 at each end would work.
s60: Thank you for the answer. I'm counting on a "real" table weighing several hundred kg, but I'll check it out.. But Kerto beams are probably stronger than 220*45 and cheaper than glulam, so maybe that's what we should go for.. I'll check if I can sort out the drawings so you can get a better look at how they look..
FiddeP: Thanks for the help. Made two of those forks and it worked great. Also used a "takstötta" (jack on a leg). Perfect both for securing them and for nailing. It's amazing to get such good help so quickly through this forum. I probably searched for an hour on Google without finding any decent tips.
andersmc: It doesn't do any good there either. The purpose of wind paper is to stop wind and water splashes. You don't have that directly behind the gypsum anyway.
Guzzi: Seems like you're right... I thought it would come in different colors but it seems like I dreamed that. It is intended for concrete steps in a staircase and as I understand it, an SMP-Polymer adhesive is preferred for it. All suggestions are welcome!
akhagen: Some kind of covering/sealing primer? With the risk of trapping moisture overall. I've done it spot-wise at home where the previous owner was careless with the litter box.
Johan_Andersson: I intend to partially enclose an existing alcove with a large arch inspired by the attached image, but I have questions regarding both material/construction and the seam between the existing and new wall. Regarding material/construction, I'm considering building it with thick MDF (either thinner or grooved for the bend) and only minimally with studs, but I'm wondering what the expertise says
MaZtoR: As Stefan says, it should preferably be attached completely hidden with mounting brackets. But if it's too late, I think you should attach smooth sheets under the visible sheet metal, which you can then rivet the sheet metal into.
nattugglan11: Hmm, now when I looked more yesterday, it's also sagging in the other adjoining room along the same line. About 7 meters in total, with a wall in between. So either there are 2 beams resting on the partition wall and both have sagged, or there is one glulam beam spanning the entire 7m stretch(?). It's just strange to me if there would be a glulam beam in a townhouse precisely at this spot, I find
chris47: Hello JonathanGubbe. I just made such a wall, see picture. I was worried about the load-bearing capacity of the drywall so I started by screwing up a galvanized mesh that I bought cheaply at Biltema. You can use plaster mesh as well, but it's much more expensive. I stretched the mesh from ceiling to floor by driving sturdy washer screws into the studs. I used regular fix and started by applying a
danielr112: Why not just put a piece of wood there instead? I don't see the point of a painted stone... You can't tell it's marble anymore...
SvenD: After advice from a professional, I used Dolomite. I bought a coarse crushed variant with about 4 mm grain size, which I used where there was a lot to fill, and a fine-crushed one to fill in smaller depressions. I found the coarse-crushed at the tile company, and the fine-crushed is marketed as garden lime. The advantage of Dolomite is that the grains stick together a bit more, so it stays in
Stehpan: Hello! I used to use small beige and brown marble tiles when tiling before. These were often available at Silvan for 200kr/sqm but also a bit more expensive at Coop and Hornbach. I was planning to tile a bathroom this Christmas. Does anyone know where to find affordable tiles? I was thinking of checking Bauhaus this afternoon. Best regards, Stephan
Mäster: Regardless of what Norgips suggests, it's not fun to plaster the short sides when the plasterboard is laid down. However, with standing plasterboard, you have the recesses on the long sides to plaster in.
tompa_70: I made a mistake, I meant, of course, that I was surprised that it was equivalent to 3 pcs 45 x 220 (not 2 pcs "352 x 220).
Gurravasa: Mitering inside corners on a regular smooth baseboard must be the most pointless extra work ever... Speaking of mitering, I had a carpenter brother-in-law who mitered so that his über-profiled baseboard ended down to the floor in the corners and then some disgusting block in between... I still shudder when I think about it...