That depends on what the wall is for, how thick the OSB you plan to use is, and what it will be covered with, etc.
For instance, if it's going to be tiled, the substrate must be thoroughly free of flex to prevent the grout from cracking, and therefore 11mm OSB is not suitable. Furthermore, OSB is generally not suitable behind tiles due to its relatively large movement. And behind tiles in wet rooms, it's "forbidden" according to BKR's wet room regulations. So perhaps tiles were a bad example.
But give us a bit more to go on. An exterior wall? An "important" wall? Is there going to be drywall on the OSB?
For instance, if it's going to be tiled, the substrate must be thoroughly free of flex to prevent the grout from cracking, and therefore 11mm OSB is not suitable. Furthermore, OSB is generally not suitable behind tiles due to its relatively large movement. And behind tiles in wet rooms, it's "forbidden" according to BKR's wet room regulations. So perhaps tiles were a bad example.
But give us a bit more to go on. An exterior wall? An "important" wall? Is there going to be drywall on the OSB?
Yes, oops, I seem to have forgotten a bit there. It's an interior wall in a hallway between two rooms only – probably won't even have anything hanging on it, but putting OSB just in case. On the OSB (11 mm) will be gypsum (13 mm). Then a wainscoting will be installed, and some sections will be painted and some sections wallpapered.
It feels like that will be sufficiently stable even with cc800.
Things I can think of off the top of my head that you might need that extra beam for are:
If the board joint comes there.
If you need a beam to attach an electrical box to (can be solved with a smaller piece of beam as well).
Things I can think of off the top of my head that you might need that extra beam for are:
If the board joint comes there.
If you need a beam to attach an electrical box to (can be solved with a smaller piece of beam as well).
I find it hard to see why you would need a joint if the wall is supposed to be 7-800mm wide.Mikael_L said:
Also hard to understand why you would place a possible box in the middle of the wall.
I absolutely have no problem seeing when it’s needed.Paul-Staffanstorp said:I have a hard time seeing why you need a joint if the wall is supposed to be 7-800mm wide.
If the framed wall ends there with a half sheet or something like that as the last piece, then there would be a sheet joint there.
I’m not entirely clear on what the original poster means, but it could be a wall, where 800mm remains after the doorway.
But based on the original poster’s question, it shouldn’t be the case, but best to mention it anyway.
Where the original poster wants wall outlets, data outlets and such, we obviously have no idea, but now the original poster knows that they might need something to attach it to.
Personally, I’ve sometimes forgotten important little things which resulted in extra work. But I'm just a poor amateur.
I agree with meckis, put a stud in the middle and it will be stable and good. I see no reason to skimp on the number of studs. You never know what you might "need" the wall for in 3, 5, or 10 years, so it's best to do it properly from the start.
Ok, but you don’t need to take offense…Mikael_L said:
I have big problems seeing that one needs a seam on a wall that is 7-800mm wide when TS writes as he does…
tobiias said:
Of course, it's just as easy to put one there as reinforcement if one can be bothered…Jan-Å said:
That's how I interpret it as well since TS writes that the wall should be 7-800mm wide, and then he writes about edges... which for me is more than ONE...mats_o said:
If the wall was an extension of something, then it should only have ONE edge...
At cc600, single plasterboard is used in normal home environments, which is therefore considered sufficiently stable. With an extra OSB behind it, it certainly provides the same stability up to cc800.
(However, it is just as certain that you cannot have cc1200 with the same stability)
So without any specific stability requirements or any other reasons to have a stud there, it can be skipped.
(However, it is just as certain that you cannot have cc1200 with the same stability
)So without any specific stability requirements or any other reasons to have a stud there, it can be skipped.
Tobilas has probably already finished this wall.
I would put a stud in the middle. Then you will have a cc distance of about 400 mm, which is better than 800. Not because anything will happen to the wall, but "it feels better" to put in a stud. In terms of cost, it's about 40 kronor and you know that you have now over-engineered instead of under-engineered. A lovely feeling when you go to bed and think about your wall.