Building Materials and Construction Technology
magnu: If you want to stabilize the wall, it must be reinforced with steel or other reinforcement. Plaster is beauty-enhancing but has no structural ability whatsoever.
Kurtivan: Exactly, here it has been more than -30 so you want to stay inside....
Paul-Staffanstorp: You can do whatever you want, but I call it stupidity... Personally, I never mix anything in a wet area with different things from different suppliers anyway... Regardless of wet or dry conditions. I know that most suppliers won't back you up if a problem arises and it turns out that you've mixed in another brand in the middle of everything. But as I said... do as you wish... it's probably
gadu^: Nothing I've really remembered that it smells like anything special, so I don't dare to compare it with anything...
JOW: The roof beams need to be resized, as they will only rest on the glulam beam in the middle of the house and the outer wall. At least calculate them so that they can handle it.
BigGitt: [citat] You can do that. That's what I usually do myself.
Suhagg: It's always a bit of a gamble, but if it offsets the big win you make, maybe you can take a chance. If it's items you might want a guarantee for at some point, it can be exciting.
raveper: I was thinking of replacing the plastic carpet on the floor in the summer cottage. I don't have much of a grasp on laminate versus parquet even though I've read a bit about it. We often walk in with shoes during the summer, so it needs to be durable. It's also during summer that the cottage is used the most. Can anyone recommend something affordable? Should I tear out the plastic carpet or lay
Leo_J: Thank you very much. I was also considering that seasonal dependencies have a significant impact since we live in a wooden house, and it has been extremely cold now, for example. This strengthens my theory that we should wait about 6 months or so to address this (with fiber blanket as you say). Then there is no guarantee that it won't happen again, but I would like it to "settle" right now before
lajsiiwan: That's also true. But you can come up with a solution using a gutter of some sort. I just mean that a papptak is an option...
Tossegubbe: Yes, you're right about that Erik, I missed calculating that part even though it's not that simple since you can't fit thousands of cubic meters in a house without back pressure, etc. My latest electricity billing around New Year was just over 2 SEK/kWh, but it can vary depending on the location and agreements, etc., of course. [citat]
lajsiiwan: Prime, arm with 5mm 100 rebar mesh, float about 3-5cm thick so it won't crack.
anaitis: [citat] You probably mean "prevent buckling"! How a column is laterally supported and whether there are moment-stiff end attachments significantly affects the possible load.
Stefan Bengtsson: [citat] They are on the internet, and I don't know if they're tied to any license. They're probably not. The places I found via a quick Google search don't sell to DIY enthusiasts. I believe that for an individual who wants to handle a single-use screw, it's easiest to contact a locksmith. I'm very hesitant to convey where such bits can be obtained. I would guess most people on this forum don't
erikssonjorgen: Place microlit fabric over the beam and plaster according to option 2. /Jörgen
_bergman_: I recognize the situation from when I was installing my projector on the ceiling! Now it's resolved for you, but I still want to take the opportunity to recommend Torx screws, they are almost impossible to slip out of with the screwdriver. Gold when there's heavy torque! They can be found at hardware stores, often sold in boxes of at least 100, but if you ask nicely you can usually pick a few
MalinW: We finally got hold of our constructor. He thought we should use Sika's Igaspistolet. It is butyl rubber-based, not latex. It is special for diffspärr and the only one that works in Sika's range according to them. There are probably other equivalent compounds, but we will test this one. Thanks for all the answers! MalinW
para: I have bought an older house with a wooden frame and brick facade that will now be expanded. It's a 1.5-story house with a basement/daylight basement and a pitched roof. We plan to extend/build on the house by extending the gable by about 5m. The extension will then be approximately 35sqm (5*7m). The facade of the entire house will be plastered when everything is done. We will outsource the
magnu: The glue you bought last summer was completely OK. The question is whether the glue I buy today is the same glue or a different type?
Nygge72: No, I would prefer them to be narrower if there is any matrial. Maybe 6mm if there is something that is good to paint on but still something to screw into.
Immobil: With risers in the lower part, it should work without a steel structure. Of course, it depends on how wide the stairs need to be.
imported_jo: Hi, I had the same in my vacation house that I built this summer, I toe-nailed a stud between at the same angle as the roof slope, so you have something solid to attach the OSB board to. Similarly up in the ceiling. A bit tricky but it's worth the effort.
Arne999: Hello I'm thinking of installing some form of ceiling in my cabin, which currently consists of tongue and groove lined with masonite. Since I don't have much height, I was considering putting a suitable panel on top of the masonite without leveling everything (since that would use up a few centimeters that I don't want to lose...). The question is, how uneven can the surface be for the result to
akhagen: Yes, and in case anyone was wondering: There was no wall. It became an incredibly beautiful and open space instead. Totally satisfied with half the job.
Stefan N: Everything depends on prior knowledge... But in my case, I would grade it like this. 1. Replacing windows 4 2. Roofing 4 2.1 Installing roof sheathing 2 2.2 Laying felt 3 2.3 Installing battens 5 2.4 Laying tiles 2 3. Casting foundation 7 3.1 Earthwork 6 3.2 Installing forms 6 3.3 Insulating 5 3.4 Reinforcing 6 3.5 Casting 6 4. Insulating and installing ceiling 6 5. Laying paving stones 6 6.
JanneL: If we are now talking about prices, why use 6 mm renovation plasterboard? Use 13 mm plasterboard in full width, i.e., 120 cm. Cheaper and fewer seams to fill.
Pedda_P: I get it, thanks a thousand for the help, here shall be simple :)
Immobil: This might be helpful: http://www.snickarlaget.se/swe/produkt/montering.pdf
daije: isolate it with regular iso. knock on an empty wall, and on an insulated one, and you'll notice the difference