Building Materials and Construction Technology
Caspár: You can build with just plasterboard if you're only going to have a wall, but based on experience, I would put something 'load-bearing' behind it, like plywood or chipboard. You never know the needs in the future. Good luck.
questan: Scrapping that plan. A tight door won't be good. As you say... not good for ventilation. So it doesn't matter how thick the wall is made. The door will still leak sound anyway. Thanks for the answer!
ElSmisko: Have been out to Bauhaus and acquired these profiles now. There wasn't one with 10mm inner measurement, 12mm was the closest I found but that works too, just need to manually fine-tune a bit more. Thanks for the help everyone! d^_^b
anthorne: Glue it on and avoid all the nail holes... PL400 works well... it sticks to everything... The risk is that if you ever try to pull off the molding, you'll end up holding the molding, drywall, and wall studs all in your hand... :D
mikael1979: [citat] put drywall instead and directly against the plastic. so no furring. drywall directly against the wall studs. Not something I would recommend to others. absolutely should have put furring. it would have gone twice as fast. shouldn't be so stingy. thanks /M
Miles: Okay, well it stays there pretty well thanks to the color but it's that kind of plaster that "crumbles away" if you start digging into it a bit :-/ Is a primer needed on the color then? Gipsskiva is unfortunately not an option as it would then build too much over the edge of the sink. Cheers!
magnu: [citat] Avoid using a jigsaw. It will likely protrude around 40mm on the other side of the board. I've hit a heat pipe with a jigsaw. It resulted in a few sweaty hours with an opened floor in the neighboring room... Use a circular saw, set to the right depth, or alternatively use the reciprocating saw carefully. You can cut plasterboards with the reciprocating saw without damaging the plastic
Jan-Å: [citat] Correct, just got to learn masonry :D in principle, it's probably easier to stack stones on top of each other with mortar in between than to attach studs and screw panels actually :pCracks will occur in any case if you mix materials like sheet metal/wood/stone in one hole.
Paul-Staffanstorp: The easiest way is to use a laser to mark where you want the bottom edge of the new ceiling, then attach these profiles around the entire room; it's no problem in lightweight concrete either with the right plugs and screws. Then it's not so important to cut the studs exactly, you can cut them one cm shorter than needed so they can easily fit between the profiles. How you lay them mostly depends
Krawk: Yes. "Höjd bärande upplag" becomes higher. Then, of course, you can reduce the height if you use stronger timber, etc. At the eaves, however, the truss is poorly utilized, but perhaps one can put up with that.
BigGitt: Or tighten against old bicycle tubes. Or new ones. That's what I had for 2 years. And used chipboard that could be used afterwards. IT WAS DISMOUNTABLE. And used regular wooden battens that were cut so, that you had to tap them in (about 2mm longer). However, the sides were screwed flush against the wall with 2 screws.
anaitis: Expect that you may need reinforcements in many places. Your planned move could affect the ENTIRE roof truss, which means that reinforcements may be needed for both the floor joists and the sloping parts. Additionally, this requires a building permit.
jimmyboy_666: Had to use a trailer, found a similar door and it said 47 kg, so it feels like 2 people would have been on the edge.
gadu^: Thank you Mikael! Yes, there is a 25mm air gap behind the masonite. These are installed with at least 10cm overlap and are also screwed together at the joints precisely to prevent drafts. There is also battens in the middle of each rafter bay. Insect nets were already in place both at the eaves and at the ridge. Then it's just to continue! Big thanks for the help everyone!
Krawk: The wall is probably not load-bearing because there is no wall on the floor below. Unless there is a beam in/under the floor structure instead. However, one can never be sure just by looking at an architectural drawing. You get a little wiser if you look at a construction drawing, but you usually have to investigate on-site. You won't be truly certain until you start tearing down and see how the
miry: mattiasp What I have found is a bit too much to calculate by hand, and an approximation that gives a hint of where you might end up would be good. Could one calculate with mass and take an average temperature of the different masses (now I'm thinking of solid walls where you have whole layers and not framed walls or similar)? For example, an outer wall with panels, air gap, foam plastic, leca,
MathiasS: If you are building new, it is of course no problem to solve this. You just have to dig the drainage a bit deeper from the start. Now I assume that the situation for everyone in the thread is a bit different, whether it's bathtubs or bass boxes that need to be buried. The house stands there. The drainage is at a given level. What one can of course do is lay new drainage in the part of the
chrille112: I am going to build a "veranda" in the form of a balcony that extends 2 meters from the facade. I am considering using a sill of 45x170 and posts of 120x90. The span will be 6.3 m. Ideally, we would like to have posts only at the edges, but it's probably difficult to achieve without a glulam beam? How do these dimensions sound if we use 4 posts (approximately 2 meters between each post)?
jeppeknaster: Used short planks, i.e., 120x60 cm plasterboards with beveled edges. The only thing that needs to be filled is the screw heads. Looks really nice and can also be handled alone. Planning to try installing these on a wall as well to achieve a slightly different effect.
Paul-Staffanstorp: [citat] Ok...I've actually never encountered that. I don't build new houses, but this is what I've heard, and from what I understood, there is apparently insulation available that is adapted for this today.
Arne999: ah two 90 sounds convenient to squeeze in! thanks for the answers!
BigGitt: [citat] If you have laminate flooring or another "click" system, there are no problems. You just saw a slot under the trim. The cable will not be visible!
Danjell: Thanks for the tips! It is an enclosed staircase that makes two 90-degree angles, which means it turns a total of 180 degrees. This makes it difficult, if not impossible, to screw plasterboard underneath, as the stringers do not run parallel anywhere along the length of the staircase. So the problem remains even though I understand the principle with the plasterboard.
Henke_: Hello, We have a summer cottage (a torp from 1901) where we want to build a bathroom with a shower. The house is closed for the winter when we're not there, and it has worked well for the past 40 years. The water pipes in the house are drained with compressed air, and we have heating cables in the PEX pipes. The toilet is an incineration toilet, so there's no water there either. Right now, we
estwing: [citat] kind of what I wrote. it must not tilt too much. it's something you see when assembling. a side-hung window is more important than an H window! regards snickar estwing
ByggaNytt: I assume you have walls above ground? Plaster Isoleca Metal studs Insulation Plastic Plywood/OSB Gypsum
Kurtivan: I have started to smooth things out a bit, but I don't think it will be smooth enough to paint directly on. Can I use husfix to make the wall completely smooth, or will it become too dense then?