Building Materials and Construction Technology
nattugglan11: [citat] it looked good, thank you
Linus_E: Hello. The air-to-air heat pump has been installed and all the old radiators have been removed. How do I now cover up all the holes in the floors in the nicest and simplest way? For 3 of them, I can replace a piece of the floor, but in the living room, there are 3 that can't be replaced without taking up the entire floor. So tips are more than welcome... Best regards, Linus
Björn_Nilsson: Really good question. Good thinking there... In my head, it probably works as you say. But if you load the screws and the support list equally, there's no problem. However, if the cabinet "rests" on the list, the screws up there should get more outward force... Hang a bit on the top cabinet and see how it feels...
gaia: [citat] If you follow sponken's advice, you will enjoy for a long time without worrying about what happens behind the boards. Keep in mind that you haven't drained under the wall soles, and moisture from the ground can creep in and is often visible at the junction between the floor and the wall if evaporation is blocked. It's not large amounts and isn't noticeable if the wall can breathe, but if
Berra Brumm: Thanks for the tips! Now the Christmas holiday is saved. :)
daije: what kind of nonsense is that. as clear as broth that ALL the electricity is pulled before you cover walls and ceilings. your carpenter probably wants to avoid measuring the holes for the boxes. don't work backwards
Berliner: Absolutely, it should be sealed. Otherwise, you'll have moisture problems. There's a special sealing compound like Isover Vario Fugmassa DS.
Yrrol: someone must have a clue, could have called anticimex and asked.... need to get this done so I can put up interior walls & ceiling...
cheetah1: Well, then I'll have to try that. The hallway floor becomes ice cold -> not cozy when my parents, who have the bedroom next door, need to go to the bathroom at night (the bathroom is right next to the front door).
Gabbe1: I used 40mm and a dyckertpistol. Moldings and trims are firmly attached. I have plasterboard + chipboard everywhere on the walls.
hagaby: Hello. You can order LVL beam 63x200 (KERTO) and place at s=900, provided you have a felt or metal roof. If you want tiles or concrete tiles, you need to go up a dimension.
Tod: Hello! We are planning to carry out a comprehensive extension based on finalized architectural plans. I am looking for suppliers of infill wall or build element components. We live in Stockholm, but since it's about materials, manufacturing in another location might also be applicable. Has anyone done the same journey and has tips? Grateful for responses!
Krawk: [citat] If one were to be really picky, the facade and the load-bearing frame are separate parts of the building ;) Without moisture-sensitive materials, you don't have the same problems, even if the water still has nowhere to go. The best thing, of course, is to build a facade that actually keeps water out and directs it away.
jonathanGubbe: Hello! I have a space where I am planning to build a recording studio. The space is a roof of a workshop, which in turn is located in a large hangar-like building. My floor (the ceiling of the space below) consists of 22mm chipboard glued and nailed to 45x145 joists cc600, which in turn sit on 250mm I-beams, cc2400. The beams are supported by standing beams and joists of 45x145mm. Now to my
Chrissofsweden: Call the building committee and ask, they definitely know who can be classified as a "qualified constructor" :) /Christian
HakanJ: I succeeded :-) The trick seems to be not to think too much.
gaia: answers myself - NO! found answers in old threads... gaia
gadu^: If it's a construction to avoid, I guess I'll have to try to create an air gap there, but it's cramped as heck "on the other side" of the pipes towards the boarding. Worse still is probably getting the plastic tight around the pipes. I thought there might be easier ways... ;) Need to ponder a bit more... :)
Miles: ok, yeah the oak is perhaps a bit stronger than pine. cheers!
jomany: No worries. I get drowsy before things go awry. Easily end up on the couch then. :-) ///j
titanium: The mistake you made is that you did not install the vapor barrier directly. As it is now, the moist indoor air condenses on the wind barrier. A problem you can easily encounter if you build during the cold season. Take down the insulation in the part you can and spread it out on the floor. Use construction heaters as you are doing until it is dry on the wind barrier. Then quickly install the
Johan Gunverth: [citat] The chimney sweep sends a copy of the approval to the Statsbyggnadskontoret, so it's probably quite futile to bury your head in the sand.
BillyBragg: They are not the entire wall that I had to remove, so it's the same dimensions as before... 12mm thick... I don't remember the exact measurements of the studs but it was around 40-50cm... I don't think it's the chipboard, it felt sturdy anyway :)
Foffen: gluing floor joist to the parquet is another option, there's a bit about it on this page: http://www.did.se/ccbygg/default.asp?meny=artiklar&avdelning=&article=448&kat=107
yens: The latex sealant is one of the few things I've bought at byggmax that I wasn't satisfied with. If you compare it to Hornbach's for 9 kr, Hornbach's is a dream to work with. I can also recommend it...
raveper: Block and sandpaper. Goes faster than you think.
Skier12345: Marginal difference in wall temperature if you mount a plasterboard there
ih624: weld on an ear of flat iron, drill a hole in it, screw
Andersm74: It's attached and ready but doesn't get sent when I press "send reply". Why?