Building Materials and Construction Technology
Gabbe1: Yes, it should work perfectly, balksko is probably preferable in my opinion.
gzq2dx: We have a timber frame house built in 1988 - two stories in split-level. On the ground floor, there is a masonry heart wall with several openings for doors and the like. Between two of the larger rooms, there is a larger round masonry arch with an opening of about 1.5 m. Since we are now changing the floor plan, I no longer want/can use the full width of the arch but only have a standard door on
Peek: Night owl 11, do you have a picture of what you described with brick stones?
jonathanGubbe: Hello! I am looking for a track system to lift a heavy door. I am building a recording studio and in one of the rooms, I need to have a wall that can be lifted. I have a 5m ceiling height, so the wall section, which will be 2-2.5m high and about 3m wide, could be lifted straight up. I have looked at garage doors but haven't really found a good system. Are there systems where you can just buy the
Patte: We can forget this, it's called "dörromfattning" and I have found a white painted 100mm at K-rauta in Bromma.
tompa_70: Have done this and proceeded as follows. Fastened the vp-pipe securely with clamps. Wetted the plaster with a masonry brush/large brush. Plastered with gipsputs/Gypsum and pressed firmly so the paste surrounded the entire pipe/hose. When it dried, I plastered the entire ceiling (I don’t know what finish you plan to use tbh).
anaitis: I only have tables for statically indeterminate two-support beams. Then it becomes easiest with calculation software.
Fiero: [citat] Raising old thread. What are the prices today per m2 including paint approximately? Doing the work myself.
Ronaboy: My wife and I are about to start building a modular house with a crawl space. The foundation will stand with one long side on existing ground and the other long side on filled ground (about a 2m height difference). Initially, the plan was to fill, vibrate, and be content, but now the head contractor suggests that I should install concrete pillars from the "original" ground to the foundation slab
cem77: My suggestion of a steel boat to live in was not meant for you to build your house on top of a boat but rather to live in the boat. It can be quite cozy, and if it has a small wood-burning stove, you can keep moisture and cold away reasonably well. If you are to build what you propose in your vision, there is only one way to manage the foundation, which is to create a cast pontoon with built-in
jaso: [citat] I have no possibility to build a proper construction from the inside in this old house. There would be so many specialized solutions against the existing floor joists and similar to get it perfect. In that case, external insulation it will be. Next on the list is FTX ventilation and triple-glazed windows, so unfortunately, facade insulation is a little further away financially. Perhaps
joama73: Maybe I'm just being super paranoid, it's easy to become that way with kids in the house, and the more you surf around and search for information, the more confused you become. Probably there are many things that are at least as risky that we do daily, but these are more accepted in daily life. What I'm trying to convince myself is that if it were as dangerous as some people/sites (mainly
PerKr: I'm going to put decorative stone on the chimney breast. I chose Dekora Highland Earth, and tomorrow I plan to clean up the joints and start getting the stones in place. But they need to be cut so the width fits better, and I'm considering suitable tools for this. I have a stone cutter (basically a very large angle grinder) in the garage, which seems to be the first thing I'll try. The only
Zombocom: Hi! I am planning to expand my existing storage with an extension of about 4 square meters (2.2*1.9) into the carport. The question is, how should I handle the foundation? Currently, there is flat asphalt, so my idea was to first place natural stones at each corner + the middle just to lift it off the asphalt, then a layer of (oiled) masonite, on which I would place joists (pressure-treated)
ålesund: We swapped at our country house built in '69 almost 10 years ago. Maybe don't remember all the details. We were three people, one of whom was a carpenter (not me). Opened the interior wall a bit up, removed the insulation, sawed off the sill at each stud. Placed noggings between the studs, which we then lifted the house side with. Sawed away the pieces under the studs with a reciprocating saw.
Mikael_L: Staple gun for staples with a narrow back (5.7mm) recommended. This type of gun is often a combined staple/finishing nail gun. And leaves marks in the wood when nailing with nails. :(
Returia: Image search "concrete sink" and you'll find lots of beautiful pictures of concrete sinks along with plenty of information. Here are some of my favorites.
nybyggarbjörn: Thank you for all the answers. The reason I'm considering installing asfaboard is that it's on the rest of the house and to avoid placing spacers on the battens so the panel aligns with the existing panel. The reason I initially used windproof fabric is that I wanted to seal it quickly and didn't have asfaboard at home. Now I've made a decision, and it will be asfaboard mainly because I want it
Mäster: Regular plasterboard is a bit heavier to carry, but it usually ends up being cheaper and slightly smoother if it's very uneven behind. Renovation plasterboard has the disadvantage that it often looks a bit ugly around the screws, while regular plasterboard conceals them better. If you have more rooms to do, I think you might consider using regular plasterboard. A convenient alternative is 90
v-g: Bitumen sheet around the pipe, available self-adhesive at e.g. mekonomen. Dampens due to its weight and makes it very effective. It is used, among other things, to prevent the sheet metal in the car from yielding when you have some stereo, can also be used for general soundproofing.
Roundup: I don't think the difference in level is an issue even with quite strong textured wallpaper in some places. If the level differences are visible, you can simply putty a bit more broadly.
pärzon: I spoke today with a guy at EPS cement and according to him, it should not be a problem to cast on top of a platon mat. The methodology is exactly the same as for a floating construction with the only difference being that the construction plastic is replaced with platon.
Jansson77: Is it possible to use a regular fully matte ceiling paint for lecavägg indoors? Many people paint the chimney with regular indoor water-based paint. & in this situation (indoors) I'm not dependent on the paint needing to breathe ?????
Berliner: Hi, use Rothband instead of foot glue if you already have plaster on the walls, available for purchase at Cheapy. Works excellently.
joflopp: Fun to see how it turned out and that I could be of help. :)