Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mexitegelvillan: I finally installed an under-ventilated floor. I chose the Granab system and it seems to work fine. The reason I chose under-ventilated instead of EPS is that I talked to an inspector at Anticimex who considered that under-ventilated is the best construction available. /Mexitegelvillan
isolde: Secretsavage, you can successfully use the anchor mass you already have. If it's not a commercial construction (which I don't think it is) and you only need to make a few fastenings, you can temporarily hang a heater with the blower directed at the hole that will be filled with anchor mass. Let the heater run for a few minutes, then fill it with anchor mass and bolt/threaded rod. Then let the
Enk Projektet: A building kit from, for example, Fiskarheden I believe in if you are a bit handy. Building yourself with loose timber is definitely the most fun part of the whole project, but it requires that you are quite persistent :) I haven't built anything new, but I've renovated a summer cottage and am now working on a new renovation/extension of a former summer cottage...
Vehlo: Background: In the spring, we drained around the entire house and insulated with 100mm Isodrän board. At the same time, we removed loose wallpaper and plaster in the basement to let it "breathe." The wall construction was 25cm lightweight concrete and plaster, then filled and wallpapered directly on this. [bild] Now: I plan to frame the walls with metal studs and put up drywall to then
jerk: No, unfortunately, I don't have any left. But check with theofils if they have any.
orparn: If the cardboard ceiling has no damage and is well-stretched, is there any reason at all to do anything other than repaint them?
Mangan: Now I have taken down the old wall and am busy sweeping away all the loose plaster. I will try to remove all the old wooden plugs from the wall where the old studs were and then fill the holes with plaster (I thought it was better than concrete in case someone someday wants to reveal the wall again). Of course, a problem has arisen: 1) The ceiling was lowered sometime in the 60s. The gap between
FEL_007: Consider where the spotlights should be placed before deciding where the studs and sparse paneling, as well as the electrical routing, should go. I didn't do that...
saiter: It's possible if you have the ridge beam in the center of the building. The disadvantage is that you won't get any loft (underside of the roof). And where do you have the "lyftbalken" (if you are going to have an underside of the roof)? It will probably be necessary to have a maximum of CC 1200mm on the roof beams. //AA
källare: Have removed the plaster from a basement wall made of leca blocks. The old plaster was painted with some kind of dense paint. If you poked the "paint bubbles" that were still intact, they cracked, and the sand poured out like from an hourglass. The basement wall is undrained and will remain so. The ground outside the wall consists of wet clay, so there is a lot of moisture wanting to come in
elmont: "säkervatten" are not musts and must-nots, but industry standards that the industry sets up itself. Obviously wise to follow, but not mandatory.
Forbo: [citat] No objections:-) But if you go with that option, you don't have to be so precise with the center distance either...you have 95mm to join instead of 45mm:-)
btg308: Quick tip: A small support leg down to the floor on the plasterboard side could save your night's sleep if you're uncertain and can't find a stud.
kraali: the last time I installed glass mosaic, I used a tile cutter as mentioned, but the parrot pliers are also a very good tool for mosaic, though it requires some technique
Jan-Å: Don't know what it costs, but I would still say that stainless steel is too expensive, galvanized is the most durable in relation to price, and wood is the nicest. An external staircase I would build in pressure-treated lumber; if you can attach the entire structure to the wall, it should last a very long time, but even a structure resting on the ground will last if it is pressure-treated long
Jan-Å: I have almost always had a split contract, meaning it is my responsibility to ensure it is done correctly and well. I have succeeded in doing so every time except once. It's important to have a good dialogue with the craftsman who comes, allowing them the opportunity to actually provide suggestions, advice, and expertise. I must ensure that all information is made available and that the person
pbengtsson: You can build as much as you want in height for insulation. Just wanted to point out that it doesn't increase the load capacity. If it's as you describe and there's a wall underneath, I would go for it. Common sense applies.
Jonas Falk: Thanks for the answer! It's not exactly that wall, but it is a wall that is drawn exactly the same way. I received a new drawing today. I removed part of the door frame today and then two bricks fell down... so the wall probably isn't particularly load-bearing. Thanks!
Alfredo: [citat] No, I think I can guess, lol... I have no intention of starting/continuing any religious war. ;) Paper is surely just as good or better. Is tape needed if TS is going to use fiber cloth? I don't know. Fiber cloth, by the way, do we mean ordinary "fiberglass squares," like hospitals, or is it something else. When it comes to bulging, it usually isn't noticeable if you're good at widespread
Wilfa: [citat] No, there is no such law. Insurance companies do not write laws ;). But, when everyone here in the thread talks about potential equalization, it is the same as when I wrote voltage equalization earlier in the thread. In the industry, they talk about "SUS and DUS," abbreviations that stand for voltage equalizing systems and partially voltage equalizing systems. DUS is when you have an old
Johan_2: Hello. Getting a fireplace insert installed and wondering about the curing time for the casting around the flue between the insert and the chimney. I read in the Sverigekassett's installation manual that you can start a fire the next day, but my installer says 2 weeks. 1 day sounds very short, but 2 weeks sounds very long... Which one is correct? I'd love to start a fire as soon as possible, it's
jbjorling: I haven't received a response on the forum yet. My partner and I have ordered a fireplace and installation from Eldabutiken in Haninge, and I asked them. Apparently, the chimney doesn't need to be built from fireproof bricks; the important thing is that the firebox, which has direct contact with the fire, is made with fireproof bricks. Edit: So we still don't know if the chimney is made of
Herr: Here is a PDF with stainless steel downpipes, gutters, etc. Very nice! http://www.euro-inox.org/pdf/build/rainwater/Rainwater_SW.pdf
DeEss: Hehe... Suspected it would be mounted on dense brackets or similar, but it never hurts to be extra clear. :P That thing with the compartments sounded smart! d^_^b
dagodo: For pictures see: http://www.byggahus.se/bloggar/dagodo/2555-stalbalk-tillbyggnad.html