Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bulldog: To get answers, I think you should ask the question in the "Tools..." forum. That's where the fräskillarna reside...
Milkshaken: I always use the sleeve for Karmskruvar... That is, the short reversible one... It's probably me being eager, I press first during the deadlock, then I screw,,, but that's where it messes up... I want to mention that some people experience it spinning around... Probably lacking technique, as I said, I prefer the traditional... But shame on those who give up, I'll try using the ones you mean a bit
Mats: I followed the same method as the book on my latest build. If you do it like this, you have no wall plate at all on two sides, so there's no problem with that. However, I embedded a standing 45X145 at about the same height as the wall plate. (Very practical for joining the asfabord on). Then I placed a complete truss against the protruding studs. The nice thing about this method is that you get
HenrikEng: [citat] Should have humidity 30-40rf in the bathroom, it's the same in the rest of the house anyway. So I don't need to worry, in other words, just put the insulation back in place and install the flyfa panels - våtrumsgips.
Callemaja: Hello good friends. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all. I plan to start nailing some moldings, windows, and door frames after the holidays, and for this, I will acquire a nail gun with smaller dimensions. As usual, there are so darn many models and dimensions of nails. :@ The question is, screws, staples, or brad nails, and if it's about brad nails, what thickness should the wire be,
byggare henke: yes, it insulates. don't know the value. polystyrene works fine.
Anders_Nilsson: Hello! Outdoor plasterboard is usually 9mm, right? And it has a waxed surface to resist moisture. Measure the thickness; indoor plasterboard is usually 13mm. Did you perhaps buy a low-cost option? You could try to exchange it at the store where you bought the plasterboard. What does the receipt say? Otherwise, if it's not possible to exchange for beveled edge plasterboard, you might just go ahead
prototypen: If it concerns the joint of a sill between 2 blocks, it doesn't need to be joined together as much if you're building on a concrete slab. The concrete acts as one large splice. If it's a joint in a block, do as Andersmc writes; if you also glue, the wall will stay straight during the lift as well. Protte
fulingbusen: So you could use plasterboard directly on the basement wall if you first do this test and no condensation occurs at all after 2-3 weeks? Otherwise, you need to have a ventilated construction.
Johan Gunverth: There is a special 10cm wide metal strip to place between the gypsum and sparse at the short joints. You screw directly through this with a regular drywall screw.
Doldskada: How about using a circular saw to cut away a strip at the top and bottom of the wall. With the right depth setting, the risk of hitting wires should be minimal. Now you've exposed the studs - cut the fastenings and push the wall into the correct position and nail it back again. But it might not work.
per123: Thanks for the response! We have a hood on the chimney, but I'm wondering if the problem might be that it's too large and rain is blowing into the ducts anyway. I'll have a look at it...
petersson79: A friend's brother insulated the floor structure down to an apartment in the basement according to all the rules of the art... barely helped and cost quite a bit...
myrstack: One might think that it should be enough to follow the assembly instructions when the ladder is being assembled.
oskis 123: I sense interior design plans with more modern undertones. Could it be another cottage at risk of renovation attempts with stainless steel kitchens in open floor plans, air heating, click flooring, and other things that aren't quite "supposed" to be there? As you can tell, I think you should keep the chimney. Those can be spruced up to look fresh, and it will last at least twice as long as a
josmic: I know there is an air gap against the panel since the garage is part of the house, as mentioned it's a townhouse and only an outer wall is involved in this case, I plan to keep half of the garage as a storage room and the "sides" of the garage are against interior walls (mine and my neighbor's). As for the floor, I have a basement underneath so it's not directly on the ground. What I'm most
Mikael_L: If you then plaster with staggered joints between OSB and plaster, I think it's fine. Use 32mm plasterboard screws for wood studs according to the plaster's installation instructions in the OSB as if it were a stud you're screwing into. By the way, doesn't the OSB's length of 240cm match up evenly with the studs at cc60 ...? edit: I see now that you wrote gables, I read carelessly and thought the
yuphin: Probably I need to remove the nail first to be able to attach IKEA's clips for baseboards: http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/80125925
valter53: Wallpaper doors. Doors that are flush with the wall and have the same wall covering as the wall.
byggare henke: can you fix a picture or drawing of how it looks
byggare henke: appropriate amount of glue. screw as usual. no guarantees you'll avoid squeaking. nails you can forget
Ola-D: Hello, We are replacing a blåbetong wall with lecablock in our newly purchased house. If you insulate the wall externally, do you need to apply a base coat to the wall? How much should you insulate? The blocks are 29 cm thick and will be plastered internally. /Ola Daun
blackadder: [citat] Great tip! Thank you and much appreciated!
shadowfire: yep, the result turned out well in the end.. took an old t-shirt and rubbed with it at the end, then washed a couple more times with a sponge.. but it got much better after I rubbed with the t-shirt, a bit like polishing a car.. =)
petersk: Without having calculated it, I would probably advise against it. It probably holds in the ultimate limit state, but you risk large deflections and significant flex in the floor structure.
Yrrol: Bought a new chisel or whatever it's called. It went okay, but it took time and was tiring... Bought a "multimaster" but from Bosch, used the narrow saw blade which was too fine, bought "sandpaper" in metal 40 grit for this and it went okay but slowly... then took a flap disc and angle grinder and it went quickly and looked nice. I estimate that I need 3 such discs in 60 grit to cover the entire
Prosit: [citat] OK, thank you very much! I'll probably do some more calculations on that. :-) I'm wondering if one improves their situation somewhat by using, for example, linen insulation (http://www.isolina.com/se/isolering.cfm) or wood fiber boards (http://www.novator.se/kretslopp/0204/s10.pdf) inside the plastic - it might not make a difference? It may still get just as humid in the walls, but
Bonan: There is imitation brick and there is real imitation brick. The most common imitation brick is the ready-made tiles you buy at hardware stores, and you can immediately tell they aren't real. When I bricked our kitchen, I contacted a reconstruction depot. They had all kinds of real bricks salvaged from old buildings in stock, which they split into 20mm thick pieces. Then I layered them with
Hubbe2: aha, on the inside of the wall... then, as you say, it's better to remove it.