Building Materials and Construction Technology
Jan-Å: I was going to buy from a scrap firm, but I don't know where they might be located in Gothenburg.
josmic: We live in a townhouse from '81 and need an extra bedroom. The houses are built on a slope and are connected by the garages (which are on the upper floor) so these are well insulated in the side walls through the connection with the rest of the building, and the floor therefore also has no contact with the ground. I don't plan to use the entire space and will keep the garage door in place, using
kraali: [citat] you can skip the blocking on cc300 with a clear conscience, do it at work, but sure, if you're doing it for yourself, you can take the extra 30 minutes it takes to do it, but what's more important is to bevel the short edges on the gypsum before you screw up the gypsum. /Thomas
slacker: I'll make sure to try a box at some point - Quite tired of plugs in general since most of them leave nasty marks in plasterboard. But considering the damage Molly causes, it's probably a good alternative. You should be able to push it into the wall when you're tired of it. I’m annoyed with Molly and the craters they leave when you want to remove them. I usually use a larger drill to bore away
Tyresö: You should not even try to measure or even attach a drill to the drill machine - you should NOT drill into the concrete slab at all!!! Instead, glue the rule with e.g. http://www.danalim.se/produktkatalog/byggeri/montage-kontaktlim/montage-ekstra-292/ But there is a jungle of all types of glue.
Tyresö: Such fine powder snow blows in through the eaves of our house and settles like a "dust layer" on the insulation in the crawl space. It's like this every year and it's obviously not good, but as long as you have good ventilation in the attic, nothing happens to the insulation other than it insulates worse. Better to have it this way than to seal the attic completely. Of course, you can build a
Gabbe1: Or you do as I did after polishing and plastering my chimney. I bought white sand and mixed it into the paint I used, which gave a very nice surface that looks exactly like plaster.
jeppeknaster: In any case, avoid doing what I did with my floor moldings. I didn't think ahead and brought in a big pile that I placed right next to a warm radiator. They stayed there for about two months, and when I went to install them, they were all like bananas :)
Tyresö: Find it hard to imagine that they cast a vault that is only 10 cm, because there are so many load-bearing interior walls - but you should never be sure, as there was a lot of experimentation in the construction industry in the 60s and 70s. Check in the stairwell how thick the vault is. If it is 20 - 25 cm thick (like today's vaults are), I see no problem with creating a doorway. It would be a
anis: OK, thanks for the advice! It sounds like we should focus on plaster as the surface layer. Hopefully, there is nothing structural that needs to be replaced, but we'll see when we start tearing down... There have been a few "accidents" with leaks from the roof over the years in the poor cabin, but now the roof is hopefully ok.
cederbusch: Okay, that sounds good. I'll probably try it over the weekend. I'll get back to you on how it went.
Kakelfog: You can either beam up so you get cc40 or you can set cross-beams to brace it, depending on how it looks under the floor. If beaming up is possible, it is the best option. Otherwise, the second alternative is to lay another chipboard first, but then you raise the entire floor and it can create issues with adjoining rooms due to the height difference and problems with doors.
Jerka_l: place the wedges at approximately 600mm intervals, and it will be great.
BGW: Great! Now I know that. Initially, I had planned to do wide puttying, but after an entire upper floor, I got tired of it, and a staircase is also quite tricky to balance in with a ladder. Thanks for the help!
eriobe: Congratulations. It always feels a little better when you've done things yourself :P
Swappe: Logical thinking and in some cases a bit of customization, I would say. For example, it is smart to install permanent interior walls before laying the floor to avoid dirtying/scratching the floor. But a temporary "loose" interior wall should be placed on top of parquet, for example, to have a complete floor when the wall is removed one day. Electrical wiring in interior walls is easiest done by
autonom: Hello, It's a Nec Pg6 xtra. Compact model ;) It would be nice to have on the ceiling, but I'm unsure.
jac: I do think I've seen such things in building supplies around Malmö/Lund, but I haven't looked closely since I haven't needed it. I *believe* I've seen birch plywood at P&G Woody in Södra Sandby. If you're headed down to Malmö occasionally, there's Fredricsons Trä in Arlöv. (http://www.fredricsons.com) Fredricsons is normally a wholesaler but also sells to individuals on Friday afternoons if
DeEss: Earlier this autumn, I installed a new front door and sidelight on the house and am strongly considering building a small roof over the stairs to protect them from the weather. The roof should cover the platform outside the door, which is about 150-160 cm wide. The idea is to replace the existing stair railing and build new ones with long posts and a handrail. The problem is that the door is on
Tyresö: Wood directly against concrete is, as we know, a disastrous solution - the wood rots after a few years. An additional tip you can do is to cast a concrete beam so that the post foundations are connected to each other underground - then there's no chance of the posts moving or leaning - you can even hang the largest and heaviest wrought iron gates without the posts starting to lean inward. I have
Tyresö: [citat] Even better with reinforcement mesh if you encase it in concrete.....
Ola78: Use aging-resistant tape intended for vapor barriers, such as T-emballage T-flex or Stockviks vapor barrier tape.
AXS: [citat] I think I'll do best! Pre-painted becomes so boring.
huggan: The bending moment at the midpoint of the load P is M=PL/2, where L is the length. The bending stress is S=M/W, where the section modulus W=bh^2/6. b and h are the width and height of the beam. Therefore, S=3PL/bh^2. P in Newton and all dimensions in millimeters will give you the bending stress in Megapascal (MPa). S should be less than the bending strength of the beam. S = 24 L = 4300 mm if you
Sandberg: OK thanks for the answer! Do you mean that I attach the VP pipe to the plasterboard with clips, fasten them there? From the ceiling, pipes come down to the box for the lamp outlet. Further down, there is an outlet with an opening on the same wall side. Then it continues downwards for another outlet but on the other wall side. What do I do with the VP pipe and the insulation there? I mean the VP
jeppeknaster: The steel beam weighs about 50 kilos/meter, so it will be around 350 kg to haul up. We'll see if we put it in the attic or on the ceiling.
prototypen: I don't THINK that the slab would crack from a heart wall. The load on the slab will be double floors and essentially double the people. Concrete is strong. The snow load will still be on the edge beam.