Building Materials and Construction Technology
Ola78: With trim I meant that you can nail a backing board so it aligns with the framework in the wall, then you have something proper to screw into instead of using plugs. This method presupposes that it is a stud wall and not a plank wall you have. Old houses can actually have stud walls for interior walls, we have it in our house from 1924. The thickness of minerit boards, if I remember correctly, is
fsn: [citat] It's OT but still... Of course, you should have ventilation, preferably FTX, but with radon in the house, I have acquaintances who have to ventilate the entire house volume once an hour, and it costs a lot even with an efficient FTX. They often switch to defrost mode in severe minus temperatures, and then the efficiency is poor. The efficiency that manufacturers claim of 80-85% I don't
JKHANSSON: it feels like I shouldn't be too worried, as long as I don't let the air in the wall stand still. gonna start sketching a bit now =)
Ola78: Go to a hardware store and buy 22 mm panel boards that you cut down to 96 mm, which is as wide as the wall is thick. Then cut them to the correct length and nail them in the door opening. If you have 3 cm too much on each side, this way you'll get an 8 mm gap allowance, which will be just right.
Piparebo: Hello everyone, I'm wondering how "quickly" wood shrinks when it dries. Not how "much" it shrinks. The answer should be "the faster it dries, the faster it shrinks." But is that the whole truth? Or does the wood continue to shrink for a longer time after it has "finished drying"? Let's not discuss that rapid drying on the surface can cause the wood to crack. Please give me advice on the following
JOW: So, approximately 4cm from the finished wall to the outer edge of the pipe then.. since 7.5 / 2 is about 4... 8cm to the center... Thanks for the "support", sometimes it's just nice to bounce ideas around.. :)
Jan-Å: [citat] It's a hard life being a homeowner :P I myself made a mistake by the storage door so I have to dig up and insulate there when the frost has lifted, it can't be more than 2-3 months now until spring :wow:
Anna_H: [citat] Haha, no, I was tired and wrote wrong, it's the paper strips that are considered more professional, probably because it's more traditional, and harder to use. A bit like you can't really drive a car if you only drive an automatic ;-)
Alfredo: Perhaps it would work with a really thin (Japanese) saw and hand-cut. I also recall there was a variant of a "field-ready" wire saw, a kind of sharp, jagged wire with two rings at the end. I have no idea if they are good, but they should be able to bite better than fishing line at least. Found a variant here (first Google result, don't know anything about it). Another option might be to saw off
PumpTompa: Sorry Mangan, I accidentally used my wife's login yesterday. This was my response: I find it hard to believe that the moisture is absorbed beyond 2m, but sure nothing is impossible when it comes to moisture. Maybe it's better to leave this to some moisture expert...
kanalenn: Does anyone know if it's possible to get similar hinges preferably type 86201 or 86202 "available at the link below" via a mail order company? I live in Gotland and there is no Biltema here. http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/Gangjarn/Ovrigt/Smidesgangjarn-2-st/ Best regards, Peter
byggare henke: says like jeppeknaster. small mistake with the blocks under the plate
DeEss: Hello! I did a similar "addition" on an interior door - though not a closet door. I used 3 or 4 mm Masonite, glued and nailed it with a nail gun. Along the edges, I applied a strip of latex caulking to fill the gap and then patched and sanded. It has held up for two years without any cracks. :) MDF board in 6mm thickness can be found at hardware stores, or they can order it for you. If you go to
J.B.: I had placed syllpapp under the wall so you don't get any moisture up in the wall from the slab, but any rising moisture can come out into the room.
Alfredo: [citat] The new reference in measurement technology... d^_^b
norrbottenstorpet: Is it mainly convection heat or radiant heat you need to protect yourself from? An alternative might be to place mineritlister on the heat-exposed sides as well. Perhaps you could even plaster them a bit extra to achieve even tighter protection?
Mangan: Considering installing some extra pipes in the walls now that I'm renovating my son's bedroom. Thought about placing small magnets in strategic locations, but it might be foolish if someone unknowingly places magnetic media or something similar close by. Maybe a larger metal piece is smarter? Just measuring the points feels a bit uncertain. Smart suggestions?
Yrrol: m, have assembled them now without glue, there were small damages on like all the cabinets so it's a good thing I'm practicing on the laundry room's before it's for the kitchen :)
jnel: Hello, I have a 30-40 sqm so-called brewhouse on my property that I would love to be able to heat in the winter. The house consists of stone walls plastered on both the inside and outside, 5 single-pane windows, a chimney, and an asbestos roof. There is no insulation today. I've thought about adding insulation from the inside, but I would lose both floor space and ceiling height. Do you, good
Mats: Ikea? The measurements you mention are quite close to standard cabinet doors, so it might be worth a look.
Mangan: Encountered another problem: I always intended to use a metal stud against the outer wall, but the gap between the dropped ceiling and the wall is only about 38mm. HOW bad is it to plane down a 45mm stud and attach it to the mentioned ceiling and then place the metal stud below this? I could possibly place construction plastic on the side that faces the outer wall? I can't plane down the ceiling
FredrikR: You spackle as usual, but then you sand down the spackle towards the corner and thus get a nice and sharp corner.
petersson79: Of course it is... But Gyproc is probably shooting itself in the foot by setting such a high price from the start...