I've just torn down an old trätex wall that was mounted on top of an old wood panel, which was mounted on horizontal (suck) studs on the inside of a stone exterior wall.
Now, when I'm going to mount an interior wall on this wall, I assume I should use steel (sheet metal?) studs and then put drywall on them to avoid moisture transfer from the exterior wall.
I had hoped to find some metal profiles with suitable holes for running cables/pipes for electricity, but that seems to be the wrong approach.
Of course, I want to minimize the thickness of the interior wall while still accommodating electricity, preferably without chiseling into the stone wall.
Any cheerful tips, instructions, "think about this"?
Now, when I'm going to mount an interior wall on this wall, I assume I should use steel (sheet metal?) studs and then put drywall on them to avoid moisture transfer from the exterior wall.
I had hoped to find some metal profiles with suitable holes for running cables/pipes for electricity, but that seems to be the wrong approach.
Of course, I want to minimize the thickness of the interior wall while still accommodating electricity, preferably without chiseling into the stone wall.
Any cheerful tips, instructions, "think about this"?
Found a very good guide here:
http://gyproc.se/gör+det+själv/så+här+gör+du/innerväggar/innerväggar+med+stålstomme
http://gyproc.se/gör+det+själv/så+här+gör+du/innerväggar/innerväggar+med+stålstomme
All the metal studs I have installed in my house have had pre-made "holes"/electrical conduits at regular intervals, so when you do an entire wall, you get them in the same places....perfect for running flex conduit in...
/
M
/
M
Now I have taken down the old wall and am busy sweeping away all the loose plaster. I will try to remove all the old wooden plugs from the wall where the old studs were and then fill the holes with plaster (I thought it was better than concrete in case someone someday wants to reveal the wall again).
Of course, a problem has arisen:
1) The ceiling was lowered sometime in the 60s. The gap between the existing wall (brick with a new bathroom on the other side) and the lowered ceiling is about 35-40mm. Therefore, I cannot attach a metal stud in the "real" ceiling. Should I put a wooden spacer in the old ceiling so I can get down to the height of the gypsum ceiling to have an even base to attach the metal stud to? I was thinking of finding a suitably sized piece of wood and putting some of that asphalt board strip (or whatever it's called) on the side facing the bathroom.
2) The floor consists of wooden flooring (which is almost flush against the old wall), some sort of board (which is 2-3cm from the old wall), and then the floating click-floor I installed a few years ago. In other words, I don’t have an even base to attach the metal studs here either.
Solution proposals
2a) Cut away enough flooring to expose 45-50mm of floor surface to attach the stud. I assume I can do this with the help of a circular saw with adjustable depth.
2b) Place spacers between the old floor and the metal stud so that I raise it to the height of the current floor and then attach.
Of course, a problem has arisen:
1) The ceiling was lowered sometime in the 60s. The gap between the existing wall (brick with a new bathroom on the other side) and the lowered ceiling is about 35-40mm. Therefore, I cannot attach a metal stud in the "real" ceiling. Should I put a wooden spacer in the old ceiling so I can get down to the height of the gypsum ceiling to have an even base to attach the metal stud to? I was thinking of finding a suitably sized piece of wood and putting some of that asphalt board strip (or whatever it's called) on the side facing the bathroom.
2) The floor consists of wooden flooring (which is almost flush against the old wall), some sort of board (which is 2-3cm from the old wall), and then the floating click-floor I installed a few years ago. In other words, I don’t have an even base to attach the metal studs here either.
Solution proposals
2a) Cut away enough flooring to expose 45-50mm of floor surface to attach the stud. I assume I can do this with the help of a circular saw with adjustable depth.
2b) Place spacers between the old floor and the metal stud so that I raise it to the height of the current floor and then attach.