calculate a bit on it and it turned out not quite as I initially thought with the costs because what you would need to shop at the lumber yard is about 8-10,000kr cheaper with the bearing steel construction that I sketched before than if you use a pure wood construction, but then it can't handle as heavy lifts, but it should still suffice and then I have a steel beam in the middle of both with supports downwards, and what I counted on was that he has full attic space without trusses that are in the way, and it was around 70-75k SEK for the wooden frame if done without insulation and without a moisture barrier inside in both cases but with roof decking and underlay felt and metal roof on it and all screws and brackets and also a full floor in the attic in roof decking 22mm so you can walk and put things up there too
so it's not so cheap, but with about 3500lm roof decking and screws to that, it goes up, and if you skip the floor and remove the studs in the steel proposal, it's another 12,000kr off, but that part can't be removed with the wood construction, so if you cut corners and remove some things so it doesn't have the same functionality and appearance, you can cut down the timber with accessories to around 30-35,000kr with a steel construction, but then about 40,000kr + VAT adds in steel, and then some welding is needed, but it's all about the level of requirement if he wants a bare metal roof so condensation will run on it and be cold and damp in the winter, and also lose load-bearing if he frequents it a lot with heating or if he wants to make it cozier and warm and comfortable in the next step when everything is ready so he can insulate everything without unnecessary additional costs
(I've probably missed something, but with the climate you have and a metal roof, it will hold for snow load, but I haven't calculated for wind load, but it usually is secondary in most cases I've calculated on, but I threw together a calculation on Buildingmax's website and might have miscalculated on the amount of something but it gave an approximate picture of price)
so it's not so cheap, but with about 3500lm roof decking and screws to that, it goes up, and if you skip the floor and remove the studs in the steel proposal, it's another 12,000kr off, but that part can't be removed with the wood construction, so if you cut corners and remove some things so it doesn't have the same functionality and appearance, you can cut down the timber with accessories to around 30-35,000kr with a steel construction, but then about 40,000kr + VAT adds in steel, and then some welding is needed, but it's all about the level of requirement if he wants a bare metal roof so condensation will run on it and be cold and damp in the winter, and also lose load-bearing if he frequents it a lot with heating or if he wants to make it cozier and warm and comfortable in the next step when everything is ready so he can insulate everything without unnecessary additional costs
(I've probably missed something, but with the climate you have and a metal roof, it will hold for snow load, but I haven't calculated for wind load, but it usually is secondary in most cases I've calculated on, but I threw together a calculation on Buildingmax's website and might have miscalculated on the amount of something but it gave an approximate picture of price)
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Ok miry I thank you for the answers.
Anyone else with suggestions? Preferably a designer.
Anyone else with suggestions? Preferably a designer.
Is there really no one else on byggahus who can give some suggestions?
Make it simple, it's the easiest way...
You have three walls, back wall + two gables (+ possibly a front wall).
The building is about 6.5m wide, and there are trusses that can handle that without any problem. (Free-spanning. Without support in the middle.)
You can buy trusses for 800-1000:-/each (Only built on-site if labor is free.)
If there is a steel beam at the top of the front/back wall, weld something on (e.g., UNP or angle iron) that you can easily screw the truss to.
For heavy lifting, you can install an HEA / HEB / IPE beam in the ceiling. This doesn't need to affect the roof otherwise.
If you have partition walls, put a support there, e.g., KKR, or similar.
If there is a long distance between these supports, make a temporary support that you set up when you need to lift something heavy (which you then remove, so it’s not in the way).
If you are going to have a heavy load on the loft, let the "lifting" beam below also serve as support for this.
Questions?
//AA
You have three walls, back wall + two gables (+ possibly a front wall).
The building is about 6.5m wide, and there are trusses that can handle that without any problem. (Free-spanning. Without support in the middle.)
You can buy trusses for 800-1000:-/each (Only built on-site if labor is free.)
If there is a steel beam at the top of the front/back wall, weld something on (e.g., UNP or angle iron) that you can easily screw the truss to.
For heavy lifting, you can install an HEA / HEB / IPE beam in the ceiling. This doesn't need to affect the roof otherwise.
If you have partition walls, put a support there, e.g., KKR, or similar.
If there is a long distance between these supports, make a temporary support that you set up when you need to lift something heavy (which you then remove, so it’s not in the way).
If you are going to have a heavy load on the loft, let the "lifting" beam below also serve as support for this.
Questions?
//AA
saiter: Thanks for the tips, but what do you think about my proposal then? I mean, erect posts on the existing foundations. Lay beams along the entire length, about 20 meters... Weld on Posts, (Columns) and up to a ridge beam (Square beam) set at 45 degrees... Weld on ears on both sides running down outside, about 2000mm between them.... raise ridges from outer wall line to the square beam... Dimension about, 45x 185 mm... Fasten the ridges with through bolts, both at the top at the ridge and at the bottom at the wall, where we have placed a wooden batten as a wall plate, or a smaller HEA with ears on... Then add 45x 70 battens, then sheets.......
Is it enough with 2 meters in between or should one go with 120.....?
For the sub-roof, just frame as usual with 28X70 sparse, c/c 30... of course shooting into the steel at the height you want the sub-roof...
Is it enough with 2 meters in between or should one go with 120.....?
For the sub-roof, just frame as usual with 28X70 sparse, c/c 30... of course shooting into the steel at the height you want the sub-roof...
It's possible if you have the ridge beam in the center of the building.
The disadvantage is that you won't get any loft (underside of the roof).
And where do you have the "lyftbalken" (if you are going to have an underside of the roof)?
It will probably be necessary to have a maximum of CC 1200mm on the roof beams.
//AA
The disadvantage is that you won't get any loft (underside of the roof).
And where do you have the "lyftbalken" (if you are going to have an underside of the roof)?
It will probably be necessary to have a maximum of CC 1200mm on the roof beams.
//AA