The fully renovated house is nearing completion.
I'm going to plaster and I have 13*900*2400mm. Now, the hired labor didn't really work out, so I'm doing the last bit myself. There are missing studs in the corners, so I have nothing to attach the plasterboard to. Would it work if I use a 90-degree steel "stud" and attach it? Put it from one stud on one wall to the other stud on the other wall and make a nice corner so I can attach my plasterboard to the steel "stud"? OK?
Once I've put everything up, should I use any tape in the seams between the boards? (I'm going to put a fiber cloth on the wall and paint on it. No wallpaper.) What type of tape?
Will some form of silicone work in the corners at the plasterboard seams? It's a bit difficult with putty there.
What screws should I use? I have a 45*70mm stud to attach to. (Except in the corners, then.)
Thanks in advance!
I'm going to plaster and I have 13*900*2400mm. Now, the hired labor didn't really work out, so I'm doing the last bit myself. There are missing studs in the corners, so I have nothing to attach the plasterboard to. Would it work if I use a 90-degree steel "stud" and attach it? Put it from one stud on one wall to the other stud on the other wall and make a nice corner so I can attach my plasterboard to the steel "stud"? OK?
Once I've put everything up, should I use any tape in the seams between the boards? (I'm going to put a fiber cloth on the wall and paint on it. No wallpaper.) What type of tape?
Will some form of silicone work in the corners at the plasterboard seams? It's a bit difficult with putty there.
What screws should I use? I have a 45*70mm stud to attach to. (Except in the corners, then.)
Thanks in advance!
During the garage construction, I forgot to put something to attach the drywall to in the corners.
I placed a 90° drywall angle, like this:
first behind one panel, then screwed the other panel into the metal.
Drywall screws for metal could be useful.
I placed a 90° drywall angle, like this:
first behind one panel, then screwed the other panel into the metal.
Drywall screws for metal could be useful.
Attempting two partial answers. Experts can correct me if they disagree:
Regular self-adhesive fiberglass tape embedded with joint compound is never wrong. I assume you have "tapered" grooves at the joints.ExoticThrill said:
Latex caulk is probably better if you want something (glue/paint) to adhere there. Silicone becomes very "slick".ExoticThrill said:
Fiberglass tape vs. paper tape is always a debated topic.
That's why I put paper tape on one long side of the garage and fiberglass on the other. The result one year later; all fiberglass-taped seams have cracked, no paper-taped seam has cracked. The cracks are thin but are quite visible on the painted walls; I don't think they would have been noticeable with wallpaper on the walls.
No one needs to doubt what tape I'll choose for the entire house.
Never use silicone anywhere other than well-chosen spots in the kitchen and bathroom. It's impossible to paint over, and it spreads if you, for example, sand it, so larger areas encounter paint adhesion issues. Acrylic/latex caulk should be used instead.
Tip: Cut the sheets (carefully!) where they meet in inward corners, i.e., no joint compound edge there. Install the sheets tightly and neatly, then skip the joint compound entirely and instead apply a thin bead of acrylic caulk.
That's why I put paper tape on one long side of the garage and fiberglass on the other. The result one year later; all fiberglass-taped seams have cracked, no paper-taped seam has cracked. The cracks are thin but are quite visible on the painted walls; I don't think they would have been noticeable with wallpaper on the walls.
No one needs to doubt what tape I'll choose for the entire house.
Never use silicone anywhere other than well-chosen spots in the kitchen and bathroom. It's impossible to paint over, and it spreads if you, for example, sand it, so larger areas encounter paint adhesion issues. Acrylic/latex caulk should be used instead.
Tip: Cut the sheets (carefully!) where they meet in inward corners, i.e., no joint compound edge there. Install the sheets tightly and neatly, then skip the joint compound entirely and instead apply a thin bead of acrylic caulk.
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I have heard that fiberglass is not good if you have a house that moves, ? I don't have anything recessed, that's why I'm wondering if I should have a strip? Part will bow out there then.
But I am going to have painted walls, no wallpaper, is it true what I've heard that I should first put up some kind of fiberglass wallpaper after I've spackled and then paint on it?
No, I think I can guess, lol... I have no intention of starting/continuing any religious war.Mikael_L said:Fiberglass tape vs. paper tape is always a contentious topic.
That's why I put paper tape on one long side of the garage and fiberglass on the other.
The result a year later; all fiberglass-taped joints have cracked, no paper-taped joint has cracked. The cracks are thin but visible on the painted walls, I don't think they would have been noticeable with wallpaper on the walls.
No one needs to doubt what tape I choose for the entire house.
Paper is surely just as good or better.Is tape needed if TS is going to use fiber cloth? I don't know. Fiber cloth, by the way, do we mean ordinary "fiberglass squares," like hospitals, or is it something else.
When it comes to bulging, it usually isn't noticeable if you're good at widespread plastering. It's there but usually doesn't show if it's well done.