Building Materials and Construction Technology
Sophiaellen: [citat] TS, what answer did you get on the test?
useless: The block looks like a piece of molding with a spacer behind it?
BirgitS: [citat] TS hasn't been logged in for more than 1.5 years.
BirgitS: [citat] What a remediation specialist would do is wet clean all surfaces and you can just as well do that yourself. But the amount would be negligible compared to all the other harmful substances, including asbestos, we are exposed to daily.
KJD: [citat] Saw this now. No exterior wall this is embedded in. Interior wall of Siporex. Pipes to the upper floor are branched further down along the drainage pipe, I think it's visible in the big picture. I have a Säker Vatten-certified plumbing company that has shown what they want, but that does the pipe installations. What deviates from the rules? Everything is concrete, what can break? :)
SågspånPappspikEternit: That is wood fiber material. They do not contain asbestos. Asbestos fibers were typically mixed in stone/mineral-based building materials, not wood-based.
GandalfMeck: Great! Thanks for the quick reply. That will be the plan for me as well. It’s in a hall for me, so it will be a bit of "striped" warming-up, so it doesn't matter much.
Viktor Dagander: wondering if anyone has good tips on what to do and if it's necessary to clean around the repaired parts of plastered walls in the basement that were previously painted. I have repaired where it was damaged and had no paint... But I have smoothed out the damage so that it "blends in" with the rest. But there are some residues above certain painted areas around the actual repair. What should be
jonaserik: There is fully threaded stainless steel at Jula, but hot-dip galvanized threaded rod is also sufficient. Available at larger building supply stores. Not electroplated. Regular rebar works as well. It is doweled into the rock 10cm and a hole is drilled in the leca, which is placed over and cast with slurry (watery concrete). The holes in the stone are 25 - 30 mm and 16 bar is good. It will last as
MartinFagerberg: I have exactly the same problem! Did you find a solution?
mattiasp: The treads will move with the seasons. I think there might be problems if you try to attach them rigidly with glue and screws. Additionally, the risers should be made with glued panels that do not have end joints in the middle of the board. It is possible that the countertop you mentioned does not have end joints, but it might be worth pointing out.
IlTotoRiina: [citat] The post is 3 years old, so I think the staircase has been dealt with in some way. I have an ugly staircase at the entrance and not many mm left to the door, which excludes covering it with tiles to freshen it up. A new staircase is obviously an alternative but also the most expensive one - trying to get away cheaper :)
Jorpen95: [citat] Yes, that thought about the color crossed my mind as well, tried to google a bit. As far as I know, wood fiberboard is somewhat flexible, this board is rigid and resembles the sound of thin roof tiles when you place them on the floor.
Tergan: Hello. I wonder if there are any professionals in concrete basements who can help us come to a conclusion on what we should choose. We have an excavated concrete basement from 1975. We don't know how the floor is insulated, but the walls are raw concrete. We are now planning to furnish it with a bedroom, toilet, and laundry room, and need to do it correctly according to all the rules. We have
Slottsfrun: [citat] Thank you so much for your reply! Appreciated! 😊
Testarn: That sounds completely reasonable. If it has worked before, it will probably work for a while longer :)
Annika21: [citat] Thanks for the reply! The columns support the joists above, maybe intended as reinforcement since there's a hayloft up there and extra heavy? I'll check out that other thread! Do you have any idea of the rough cost for removing outdated concrete + a new foundation?
Elliiiiiiii: I have removed my door trim in the hallway for the same reason as you, and it worked well for about 6 months until the right side where the door slams started to crack. Now it looks like this (see pictures). Hijacking your thread and asking for help; How do I fix this? Also wondering; how did it go for you?
sdlfkjlsdf: It worked! Thank you so much! A bit troublesome as I broke a couple of plugs, but then it worked.
fredand44: Thank you very much for the answers. Somehow I had missed your responses. But your answers were very good!
Testarn: To get the edge of the last board against the curved wall, you can measure at several points, say every 20 centimeters, and then draw along the lines and saw. Another way is to roughly cut the board and then hold a pencil against a block against the wall and trace the profile onto the board. For the cutout, measure from a known edge and then draw it on the board and saw the hole.
Albireo: Spent quite a bit of time looking for a ready-made solution. (a few years ago) Found an option that I "fell for," but when I received the quote from the local construction store, I backed out. Now I don't remember the quote in detail, and a new search has to be done to find the right one. The delivery time was 14 weeks, which meant that another "temporary solution" had to be devised. Since the
Testarn: [citat] Yes, it's not unlikely that someone knowledgeable will check in now that the thread is no longer in "unanswered" 🤪 I know glue is strong, but regular white glue is not so flexible, and the force will come along the glue joint, so it might cause it to release. Or that the fibers tear off. More advice here would be good, you learn all the time. 👍
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] The best mortar for lightweight concrete is Finjas Laga vägg since you can build thick layers and it's more durable than gypsum plaster, which is quite soft in outer corners.
Oldboy: Is the trellis intended to be mounted up and down every year? If so, it's practical to have it foldable, otherwise, it doesn't matter, just nail it where you want it in the configuration you prefer. If a panel is unmanageable, it also works to make a couple of "katter" (spacers) to keep the same distance all the time. Cut diagonals from 45mm timber, and both directions are aligned at the same
Heidina: [citat] If you want to keep the nice open fireplace but get more heat, you can insert a fireplace insert. Before we installed ours, it only got warm about half a meter right in front of the open fireplace. Now the whole room is heated.
Göran Jonzon: How do you easily place and fix insulation inside the edge beam? L-elements are excluded.
Olf Oggler: how did it go with this bjälklagsinklädnad. I have the same problem. I would like to clad with oak panel. It's such a small amount that's needed. But I can't find any oak panel. Does anyone have any tips?
Rooolle: I am planning to convert to a waterborne underfloor heating system and am considering whether I need to lay insulation boards above what we believe is an ERGE floor structure before I use self-leveling compound. There is a small crawl space under the floor structure, and we estimate it's about 40 cm deep (we haven't made a hole in the floor yet or have drawings to confirm this). Some builders say