Building Materials and Construction Technology
peter.linkan: The house from '64, have torn up the carpet. What can I do to make it look nice again? I would have loved to fine-sand the sides to show the beautiful wood, but unfortunately, I've accidentally scraped off the wood in some places, so that plan feels ruined. Maybe sand off the remnants of the carpet, sand and paint the wood on the sides white, and then put vinyl on the tops? Open to all tips and
Jaegermeister: [citat] Thanks for the suggestion. What I haven't mentioned is that the vertical panel on the facade will be replaced with horizontal ones. That makes it feel more natural to step out onto lengthwise decking, I believe. Below the balcony is a patio with lengthwise decking as well.
OKV: Hello! Renovation of the basement floor is underway and currently, it's stripped down to the slab (non-insulated). As seen in the picture, sand was previously used for leveling (with foam board, floor chipboard, etc. on top of this). It was also filled with sand under the sill (?) as well. This is against the exterior wall, for clarity. In due time, a raised floor with plastic screws + steel
Lonne13: Hello Searched but haven't found anything useful It is like this, I have torn out a raised floor from the den and now I'm left with a concrete slab. I was thinking of casting 100mm EPS concrete and then leveling it with 20mm self-leveling compound. To save on concrete, I was thinking of placing 50mm foam on the existing concrete slab, and then casting over this. Anyone with experience embedding
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] How long did you let the plaster dry before painting? Yes, it's true that you shouldn't paint lime mortar with silicate paint, instead, you usually paint lime plaster with lime paint...
eriklj: [citat] Well, it was craftsmen who had the honor of doing it. It took two people an entire day to break away the stuff. The upper part turned out to be very massive and quite difficult to deal with. (I was home working that day and they worked actively all day). A fun surprise was that the floor underneath was intact and the stone slab that had been in front of the tiled stove that once stood
Testarn: If you plan to make beams out of spliced studs, use nails instead of screws. They are slightly flexible and are not at risk of breaking from shear forces like the somewhat more brittle screws.
JohnyS: Look for the nail that attaches the glesen... Magnet?
Tomture61: In houses with heat recovery ventilation, there is usually a certain negative pressure in the house. In such cases, using a vapor barrier is necessary. In houses with natural ventilation, a vapor retarder works just fine, cellulose insulation is preferable then. If you use mineral wool in the building envelope + natural ventilation, both types of foil work.
TessanDoo: [citat] The house was built in the 80s, and we've lived here since 2013. And yep, it's a wooden house. The floor has had unevenness all along, but right now I imagine it's gotten worse. However, we've removed a wall (non-load-bearing!) on the upper floor, and we're currently renovating up there, so it's very sparse on furniture, which probably makes it feel worse since you can now move around a
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, studying is always good; read Finja's and Weber's plastering tips. One thing to keep in mind if you're going to plaster 2 layers with, for example, 10mm, is not to make the first application too smooth, or else you'll have problems with the adhesion of the second layer. Many times, you use a notched trowel on the first layer because then the surface layer adheres incredibly well.
Odd Melin: It is a brick wall from 1895. No, the pipes are remnants of the old installation, so we don't need to worry about them.
Albinfbab: Hello, I have a terrace on which I want to lay outdoor tiles. So, remove the decking and then somehow mount outdoor tiles on top. Is it some form of cement board I should lay on the joists, or what are your opinions? I would gladly accept any tips you have, maybe there is even someone who has this on their terrace/balcony.
Daniel Riccius: [citat] Hi, Solved the problem with these drills: https://www.hornbach.se/p/borrset-alpen-profi-multicut-universalborr-3-delars/8712534/ which have tips made of tungsten carbide. Daniel
kniv: One can still hope that they've managed to dampen the sound somewhat 9-10 years later...
leo_vb: Thank you for the response! I took a look at your project. Exciting and educational to look at!
klaskarlsson: [citat] It comes from Tjällden. But reasonably the same applies for plintgrund as randgrund/hybridgrund
Dr Benz: [citat] Hello. I had completely forgotten about this thread. Started a new one not too long ago. https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/hur-skall-jag-putsa-vaeggarna-baest.537242/ Check it out there and feel free to ask questions if you wonder about anything else. But it's really starting to look good.
HEM2121: [citat] I disagree with you there, you should follow the manufacturer's installation instructions. AMA applies in old houses too when you are renovating. If the manufacturer has higher requirements than AMA, then the manufacturer's installation instructions apply. I think I'm pretty well-versed on AMA. 😉😀
evoline: [citat] Thanks for the idea. Maybe do something similar and place one behind so it doesn’t slide back toward the radiator pipes.
Josag: [citat] Thanks, it was already ruled out but it's good to have someone confirm my suspicion 😄
OSTRUNE: [citat] Hello I'm going to build a fence similar to yours. Why is it mixed painted and pressure-treated? Would you mind taking a few more pictures and uploading them? Regards Johan
Skräcksnöret: [citat] How does it handle vapor permeability and deposits?
Thebigkahuna: [citat] Yes, this will be on the second floor so the floor is wood on top of some kind of concrete foundation.
Tomture61: The temperature difference in the wooden frame of a house can sometimes be large, as can the moisture content. Wood shrinks at low temperatures, and what is heard are tensions in joints/connections. Some parts of the wooden frame support several tons, roofs, for example, tend to be heavy.
Oldboy: Permanently heated, then it's possible to have a regular vapor barrier. Personally, I believe that a vapor brake is preferable.
Bladet: After a closer examination, I see that the standing planks do not follow the slanted roof but go up and form the outer walls for the dormer. However, I cannot see if the load for the dormer is on the planks or the roof truss. What are the options if I want to remove the wall? Must I replace with a post, or is there another way to do it?
Sågar: [citat] If you look closely at the material, there are threads just like in lump, but it can't be lit with a match. Feels like this doesn't fall within my price list to fix. Encapsulate with white paint or check with the board if they want to test it so everyone knows.
teacup: [citat] Thanks for the response, I'll probably go with 8x70 / 8x75 mm instead.