Building Materials and Construction Technology
Charlotte Andersson: In general, one should think that if a building is warmer indoors than the outdoor temperatures for most of the year, a vapor retarder should be used because the vapor pressure from inside is greater. If the building is cooler indoors than outdoors for most of the year, a vapor barrier should not be used on the inside as the vapor pressure is higher from the outside. If there is occasionally high
Charlotte Andersson: It is difficult to say when you have not specified what the roof consists of. Metal roofs, whose fastenings have started to give way, can vibrate in the wind. Other details on the roof can also make noise, such as roof hoods, plates on bargeboards, around skylights, plates at the eaves, etc. Perhaps if you film with sound and show it to a building consultant, you can get closer to a solution.
Charlotte Andersson: An important consideration when adding insulation on top of existing attic flooring is to ensure air can circulate underneath the roof decking across the entire interior of the roof. This is achieved by installing a baffle with spacers, using materials like oil-hardened hardboard, specially treated paper, inorganic fabric, or similar. It's advisable to have a hygrometer in the attic to ensure
Charlotte Andersson: To get an answer to this, you need to check what the manufacturer indicates is possible.
Charlotte Andersson: Lowering the interior floor level may compromise the stability of the structure. To avoid the risk of any settlement or collapse, you should consult an engineer who can examine your particular house. Adding insulation on the inside with lightweight concrete sounds like a better idea than framing and insulating with fiberglass, as it involves introducing a vapor barrier/vapor brake into the
joakim_j: [citat] Yes, exactly. It's the protective plastic around the beam that I mean.
zingo: I want to build a sleeping loft in the small guest cabin. The distance between the interior walls is 5000 mm. The loft will be about 2400 mm deep with c/c 600 mm Do I need a central post in the span for the 220 mm beams to support a bed and two adults in the loft? Maybe I can relieve them by having posts attached to the rafters? And then maybe I don't even need 220 mm?
sturnus: Most wood on the market is C24. So what's the problem?
Claes Sörmland: Plywood. Sooner or later screws and nails always come out of chipboard.
Avemo: I can't see any problems with that. Just ensure that the plasterboard doesn't have the joints in the same place. When two plasterboards are edge to edge, they should both be screwed into the same OSB board.
vix79: [citat] Thanks for your response!! Now it's not as green as in the picture, though damp, which makes it essential to pull these up if possible. Fortunately, it's only this one that was adjacent to the toilet where a pipe leaked.
lärjungen: [citat] Thanks for the response! I will not paint them as they are white waxed.
Daniel 109: But if there is vapor pressure from the inside, an expensive permeable film would actually lead to even more moisture in the wall, not less.
Fixerskan: Thank you so much for the quick response. That was what I was planning to do with the net and nail it into the joint, but when I asked for staples at Bauhaus, the guy there said it wouldn't work "to nail into concrete." I got the feeling that he wasn't quite sure about his claim. So, is it okay to nail the staples into the joint between the stones? What size/type should one use in that case?
Pasi K: [citat] Hi! Haven't done anything about it yet. Together with the ground contractor, we have decided to place some really large stone blocks on the flat area where the rock meets the gravel and build up a stone slope. It will be a continuation of the stone wall that already exists. It will be a slightly narrower flat area than originally planned but it will look best that way. Good luck!
Sofie.D: [citat] Thank you! We will fix the electrical work and get help from an electrician with it 👍🏼
MathiasS: I would chip away what is loose and then mix a bucket of plaster and restore. It is quite easy to work with for an enthusiastic amateur.
Elspet: I got a recipe from the concrete supplier we used when pouring our foundation. I have mixed a total of 3 cubic meters with the same recipe now. It corresponds to C25/30 with a w/c ratio of 0.66. The recipe was in kg but I simply measured the amount in 10-liter buckets which gives this: 4 buckets of concrete gravel 2.5 buckets of 8/16 macadam 20 kg of cement 9.2 liters of water 0.12 liters of
Lunatuna: [citat] Great, I'll glue it then! Sounds better with something a bit more elastic in a humid environment.
torparavgrund: I would probably start with an angle grinder with a wire brush. Concrete can withstand quite a lot.
Hodie: We have OSB+double plasterboard in the walls of the garage and my question is whether it's enough to screw Cembrit/Swisspearl Multi Force 9 mm or 12 mm into the OSB or if you necessarily need to find the studs? 2550x1200x9 weighs about 33 kg and the same size in 12 mm weighs about 45 kg. My idea is to put them up with 60 mm mounting screws without having to "guess" where the studs are behind
Kenneth Nilsson4: [citat] Hi, The house was built in 1964 with a flat roof. Reinforced asphalt felt on the exterior and self-supporting trusses with insulation. Standard tongue and groove wood towards the ceiling, then there were battens and the "paper ceiling" was attached to them. When we lowered the ceiling earlier, there was a foil between the battens and the ceiling which the carpenter removed when he set up
para: [citat] It became stable. Reinforced every or every other layer and anchored frequently to the wall behind.
Summertime.: Anyone else have ideas or even better pictures of something similar? :)
Oldboy: [citat] Nail straps are useless for hanging anything other than ventilation pipes. They break for nothing, so sturdy brackets are a must. Assuming the studs are nailed/screwed/glued together. It increases the breaking strength with a coarse continuous piece of wood compared to two unconnected thin studs, even if in theory it doesn't make a difference. (This is because wood is a natural material
z_bumbi: You can easily stabilize by attaching a board to the screen wall that follows the wall along the floor (in both directions). Think of it as a false skirting board. An angled bracket from the board up to the wall makes it even more sturdy. If you want the TV bench, you just need to put a support at the higher edge against the screen. Whether it is an angled bracket, an inverted steel bracket, or a
BirgitS: Particle boards did not contain asbestos. If one wanted a fireproof board, an eternit board was used.
mxjolle: [citat] Found a thread with instructions https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/plocka-bort-vattenburet-element-tillfaelligt.308103/ Preferably have a plug on hand and turn off the circulation pump. Close the return Close the thermostat Loosen the nut at the return, bowl and towels underneath Loosen the nut at the thermostat Seems possible to do yourself. However, I hadn't planned on plastering