Building Materials and Construction Technology
Dr Benz: The solution was like this for anyone who might be wondering. I left the old beam in place and screwed the new stud into it. Anchored with roof truss irons after lifting the collar beams as much as possible. (5-10mm). Placed a similar stud on the other side so these two now cover the entire living room/kitchen. And they rest on the chimney stack at one end and on the raised inner wall at the
AnBjaBoo: And this is how it drizzles in when it rains. It's okay, nothing gets damaged (gap at the wood) - but - we have sealed with foam sealant, is there any super foam sealant or something else we can try?
bygges: [citat] The first nail rule for the panel is about 25 cm up from the sheathing. How should it have been done, placing the underlayment behind or in front of the nailing rule and clamping it? The panel replacement was done first, and on the other side, the panel was replaced last year. It can't be unusual to lay a new roof with an existing panel?
sinuslinus: Strips under the shelves are a good idea. You can also put one at the back edge to reduce sagging. Attach a board to the wall on the right to which you screw the support strips. You won't have sufficient precision with the anchor holes in the lightweight concrete wall to attach the support strips directly to the wall.
Dublin: [citat] It is common to use a base coat first. Finja has good instructional videos for plastering: https://www.finja.se/vad-ska-du-gora/putsa/putsa-invandigt-1
G.Lindsköld: [citat] Ok, I have laid 87 stone slabs and a horizontal joist on top. It takes a while to level, but I recommend laser (y)
BirgitS: Building a wall may require a building permit. Municipalities have slightly different height limits for when it is needed, but it is common for it to be 40 or 50 cm.
tergo: Previously, when I placed wooden studs in metal bottom tracks, I only attached the studs at door openings; the rest were positioned before screwing the drywall.
BirgitS: It is not possible to say for certain based only on a floor plan; technical drawings such as a sectional drawing are needed, as well as knowing what kind of roof trusses are used. However, it is unusual for that wall to be load-bearing. Then there can be walls that are stabilizing, i.e., intended to prevent the outer walls from falling outward.
epw: Put on a windbreaker and a facade board on the outside.
Arne999: I am rinsing off the old loose white paint on the barn wall. The ambition was initially to put up reinforcing mesh and apply new plaster, but... Are there any good alternatives, I wonder... Since it is a concrete wall with some damage, can you just apply something directly on it to repair and paint, I wonder. As the picture shows, there is a clear line of cleaning. This is the part that will be
Stefan1972: I would have used asfaboard directly on the timber and then skipped battens if you're going to use Falu paint anyway. You can't think about what future owners might do.......They have to adapt to the circumstances or batten out the panel themselves then. Or buy a newer house.
ccx: Hello! We have now more or less decided to replace the sill plates while we are changing the facade of the house. The wish was to get the sill plates in the outer wall/load-bearing inner wall up to floor level. Has anyone done this and knows how it's done? From what I understand, the basic construction with plastic and foam insulation above the slab is quite a common 70s construction.
uju17771: I searched for PL400 when I was going to Biltema today since I preferably wanted to avoid visiting both Biltema and Jula. Then this "glue" came up, as if it would correspond to PL400. I'm going to glue a small piece of wood, 1.5 meters, to concrete. It was the worst crap I have tested. How can they even suggest this as a reasonable alternative?
Daniel 109: It is possible to fill large holes with putty. But you must not be in a hurry. When you apply a lot, it will take time to dry, and in the meantime, it will sink and crack. But if you allow it to do so and apply layer upon layer, it is possible to fill large holes with putty. But I have never filled holes quite that large.
Derbyboy: What also feels uncertain is if M20 threaded rod is enough. Feels a bit weak.....The height could be around 60-70 cm
EasyCash: [citat] Now I understand. Thanks. I have uploaded some pictures in my thread. If you have time, feel free to share your thoughts https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/plank-och-staket-tips.485478/#post-5239059
gaia: you risk moisture problems at the bottom where the wall meets the floor, so I think that organic material is unsuitable to use. Plaster and tiles are the safest.
din granne: Steel plate, glue plasterboard on each side. Done!
eddiw: [citat] Soil, the same that was there before it was dug up.
oddan: [citat] Thanks for a great idea!
amoreex: [citat] Great. It's 15mm construction plywood :) Good to hear. Then I can easily use 900mm drywall to handle it myself more easily.
Punderdatrullen: [citat] I have a fireplace in the next room, so if the electricity for the heater becomes too expensive, I'll use the fireplace instead. I don't want a noisy air-source heat pump near that room. It's located right next to my living room. It's a place for peace and quiet.
Hildor: [citat] There are likely those chipboard panels, see picture. Then it should be okay to just place the wardrobes on that? There's some sort of ceiling panel installed, but I think it doesn't matter much what goes up there since we're planning to renovate the hallway in the future and the wardrobes will likely extend a bit as well. We will install some sort of molding/edge on the sides and at the
Pasi K: Hello all builders! I'm planning to build a pergola on the terrace. Approximately 4.5 m out from the house facade and about 4 m wide. I plan to use sawn untreated 105x105 wood for the frame and posts. A few questions immediately pop into my head :thinking: I've seen several different methods for joining the frame. I definitely don't want to use angle brackets! Which joining method is best? Option
klaskarlsson: [citat] In any case, I don't think you will have a problem, but you could complain about them and choose some with fewer holes: The supplier shouldn't oppose that, right?
Janus82: I think it rather looks like single-phase. I don't think the boards look beveled at the bottom edge.
vattenmelon: [citat] [citat] A few not too hard blows with a rubber mallet were enough, and then cut through some paint and mortar. No major damage, shouldn't be any problem to install a new stone slab and paint nicely afterwards. Thanks for your tips! [bild] [bild]
Stensson11: [citat] It is mitered 90 degrees against a small piece that is also mitered. It looks strange anyway. A skurkloss would have done the trick there.