Building Materials and Construction Technology
Perzz00n: [citat] Yes, load-bearing basement wall, but I'm not planning to tear anything down on the basement level.
TRJBerg: It might be interesting to know what the maximum weight that will load the shelf will be in the future.
Dowser4711: Ah! Gypsum is easy to cut, so I would probably make a template using masonite or something similar and simply cut it out with a utility knife. Use the same template on both sides to make it symmetrical. Or simply make a hole straight through the wall, attach a stick or screw into it with a string that is the radius of the arch you want to create. Draw the arch, cut out with a knife or saw along
Dowser4711: No, the fact that the drywall isn't screwed in with regard to the studs doesn't matter at all. You can just as easily glue renovation drywall. You're not attaching anything to the drywall. Either you use the studs behind the boards, in which case it doesn't matter how the drywall is attached. Or you attach it with anchors like molly bolts, and then you attach it through both boards, and again, it
Almost0.5acres: This is how it looks right now. The support line runs along the entire heart wall. It would have been convenient to have the vapor barrier on the underside of the intermediate floor. [bild] [bild] [bild]
nokkan: [citat] Super, thank you so much for the response!
Anton Arvanitis: [citat] Should one choose Soft, Semi-hard, or Hard Chromed Pipes (15 and 12)? What is the best? What type of pipe is in the photo (if possible)?
enyaisrave: [citat] Sorry for the necro here but I’m looking for this answer too, did you find out how to do it?
Krickolina: [citat] Hi, I'm facing the same problem now that we're installing interior plywood in birch. Can you describe how you did it and preferably with pictures?
Eld: I would also choose a mitre box with a handsaw. (Backsaw) But it is harder than you think to achieve a nice cut. It doesn't work on the first attempts.
blackarrow: Are the boards so special that there is no standard filler that works?
Zorgen: Hi, house from 1968 renovation of a bathroom with a cast floor. Previously, it was cast against the sill and raw boards against the outer wall and cast against the raw boards on the other walls. What is best to do now? Place a diffusion-tight plastic against the sill and a bit up on the plywood or glue polystyrene on the walls? Additionally, there was 50mm polystyrene between the concrete and the
Intet: It is certainly possible to place syllpapp close together. If it was done before, there's probably no reason to change something you know works.
Kardan79: Our kitchen was set up in something similar before we renovated (moved a wall, so it now has a different construction). Hadn't fallen down in >20 years.
JF.: [citat] Aha, the picture is misleading, it looks much higher in the picture I thought.
Holpers: [citat] I have a K-drawing with measurements and dimensions. The first picture is from that K-drawing. However, I want to deviate from the K-drawing and build an additional 120cm. I need it open to the roof beam because I'm going to have a beam trolley and winch. The purpose of bypassing the post is to be able to winch things up and land them on the loft.
HSP: [citat] [bild] [bild] The engine room remains in the house, in the room there are only the foundations of the cooling machines left. [bild] An empty three-phase group witnesses a bygone era "basement cooling." The house this is in was built in 1953-1954. I don't know how long there was central cooling, but many unrenovated kitchens in the apartments have an older external kulo cable leading to
returen: [citat] works fine in the joint anyway regardless of age
Anonymiserad 618974: Go to the hardware store and check the tape aisle is my best tip for buying tape. Merry Christmas!!
Oldboy: Green-tinted, then it is stone wool. (Glass wool is yellow.) It is relatively harmless. It is the handling of them that releases loose particles in the air that irritate the throat. There is no evidence that it is harmful, and yet many construction workers have handled them daily for more than 50 years. However, it is recommended to use some form of respiratory protection, (and full-cover
Ryor: [citat] On the wall in the picture, there is no color, it has been unpainted from the start. I'm considering if any action is needed, like mold removal agent. The color will probably be a silicate paint.
Nygge72: [citat] I'll leave unsaid what they agreed upon, but he wasn't happy when he got the invoices and they did it this way. He could accept that it was travel time when they came in the morning and finished in the afternoon (but if you're paying for 8 hours it should be 8 hours of work you get, then they could have added travel time on top of that), but that they would drive off and eat every lunch
Lars Karlsson2942: [citat] Yes, but then it has to go up as well :-) I think the espagnolette is tight. It's probably been replaced a few times. But it's a good thought. I'll see if I dare to remove the fitting. Old slot screws in oak. You don't want the screws to break if you haven't found a solution to the problem.
Intet: [citat] That was like ... At my place, it looks exactly like that. Since I did the same, it is of course a good suggestion 😇
Huzzbutt: Buy fine-sawn slat instead. You get a similar impression but with more consistent quality, and you can reduce the fasteners' dimensions. The slat measures 15 mm.
Screed: [citat] You're right, I meant wind barrier. But there's not much of an air gap, it's a kit with pre-built wall elements. Spoke to a carpenter today who was more leaning towards plastic, so we'll see where that lands. After all, it's "just" a garage. Thanks for the response!
