Building Materials and Construction Technology
Oldboy: Air gaps between the rooms should be avoided/plugged. Fluffy insulation doesn't significantly dampen sound. Gypsum in the ceiling should dampen more than just fabric. However, if there is a sparse panel between the rooms, the space between the spars must be plugged between the rooms. If there's a closet wall on both sides, perhaps the actual wall has been eliminated? Meaning only closets back to
O: 👍 [citat] First and foremost: I don't think the important thing here is the person's gender. And I see nothing in the post that indicates TS means that. However: It easily leads to a lot of fuss here on the forum. So I'm writing how I perceive the matter directly. To the point: Always fun to see how others do it! 👍
ImTheBeast: [citat] What do you mean? Then the ceiling lamp's position will be completely wrong. I have to find the rule that might not correspond with my desired position.
Octavianus: Request a quote for new roof trusses from a supplier. That way you always get drawings. Then you build according to them.
torparavgrund: Is it possible to get an overall picture? Do you need to change the plaster behind the stone, or can it be joined before? The "fake stone" is essentially a tile. The answer is no, unfortunately, it's rarely a good idea to take these down and put them back up again. The adhesive mortar often adheres very well, so the likelihood is very high that some tiles will break when trying to remove them.
Stensson11: The plasterboard is 12.5mm. If the moulding doesn't work, you'll have to split what you need.
Himmelsfararen: [citat] Here you can compare with what you have if you can see the thickness of your studs. A bit to fill in, but try your way forward. https://www.byggbeskrivningar.se/dimensionering/golvbjalklag-inne/
Thomas_Blekinge: Depends entirely on your local conditions. Your mountains provide good conditions for building a cantilevered pier without piles in the water. It requires sturdy beams, but you can simplify it with tall poles at the pier's attachments and cables from the front of the pier over the poles to an anchor on land. Like a suspension bridge. Read the book "Bryggan" by Claes Dymling. Very valuable. Here
Bengt_Salmose: What I filled inside the Pool with Heydi Express is presumably still there. It's covered with a liner so it's not possible to check. However, I realize that I probably didn't need to fill it because the unevenness of the pool walls wouldn't have been noticeable. The filling I did in the utility room, using cement + a little water, hasn't come off except in one spot where there's a slightly larger
JF.: Wasn't really paying attention when I got the order confirmation for my Lindab Båstad click roof, I've received a ridge plate that's meant for roofs with an angle of 26-40 degrees and my roof is 19 degrees? Is it a trip to a tinsmith to have the plate bent? Or what to do?
Himmelsfararen: Hello, I want to recommend these posts, they are available in different heights and at www.bygma,se you can get them with an embedded nut for a 20 mm post shoe. The small ones, 400 mm high, weigh about 50 kg each and can be lifted by hand. I bought 12 pieces that I laid down last fall for my new project. I plan to use double 45x195 mm pressure-treated beams as a foundation for the floor joists.
Herr Klocka: [citat] Ok, thanks. Why would you not use thinner? Is it because the wood becomes too weak and unreliable? Ideally, we would have preferred to use this thickness (15x70) namely https://www.byggmax.se/15x69-planhyvlad-furu-p08315069#913=80997
heimlaga: [citat] It's also not very popular among residents when there's a fire behind the stove, and you have to jump out the window to avoid burning inside, shattering your knees in the fall. Wooden beams are too soft to place a masonry fireplace on. Sooner or later, the fire will escape through a crack. Such constructions were popular for a short period around 1900 but resulted in too many fires.
z_bumbi: I would keep the spalje until the children are older, paint it in some more fun colors to make it more child-friendly.
bozze4evigt: [citat] Did you figure out what is causing the smell?
Småbrukaren: Our house from 1938 has a standing plank frame, about two inches thick and tongue-and-groove planks. Exterior walls are generally load-bearing, but that doesn't mean the load on them is very large if distributed over a longer span of the overhead joists. At least not the gable walls. How large an opening do you want to make? Do you have better overview pictures and possibly some drawings of the
Fridzor: [citat] Thank you very much! Well observed. That sounds like a very reasonable theory. I completely missed that the information was in the basement section.
Dowser4711: [citat] Well, if you can buy aluminum sheet from another source at a better price than the manufacturer's, then it doesn't really matter who made them. But, even if you can get a "clean" sheet cheaper, you should keep in mind that you need to bend your sheet around the pipe and ensure that it really lies flat afterward, so you'll probably need to make some kind of jig and put a lot of work into
Josth: Likely a thin particleboard. Drill a small hole and it will quickly show if it's particleboard or gypsum and you can also measure the thickness with a wire.
rhdf: In the house, built in the 70s, they chose during construction to use rough-sawn, tongue-and-groove paneling for the ceilings in all rooms. Over the years, some rooms have had a bit of white paint slapped on, and the hallway and rec room have been tastefully stained in the house's overall color theme (4 shades of brown). I plan to tear down a wall to what used to be the boiler room/storage and
b8q: Tear everything down, frame with slats, plasterboard+spackle+paint?
Gusten82: Hello, I have plastered a cellar inner wall with base plaster, then plastered with C mortar (kc) with reinforcement mesh. However, the finish didn't turn out quite right and there are some minor unevenness. Therefore, I would like to apply another thin layer and am considering Finja plaster mortar C fine. Is it okay to spread this on, or does the plaster need to be applied by trowel to adhere?
williamspäron: Hello! A year ago, we replaced our garage doors because the old ones, which I would have liked to keep, had warped a bit too much and weren't particularly well insulated. During the installation, I chose to keep the old frames and mount the new ones on them. The old ones were very sturdy and I was worried a lot of plaster would have fallen off if I attempted to remove them. Anyway, the trimming
masc71: Hi, I'm planning to plaster the garage wall (outer wall above ground) but I'm wondering if I need to address the transition between the aerated concrete and the wooden beam (see image) in some way? There's a strip between the wall and the ceiling that I want to remove in order to plaster the entire wall. There is a fiberglass mesh on the wall today. I will be using a gypsum-based plaster.
Missionshuset Roslagen: Ok. Thanks for all the valuable input. Upon further consideration, it will likely be a solution where the bearer beam is moved down instead and the notches are skipped.
myrstack: In principle, yes A standard slab is typically constructed with thicker edges that bear most of the house's load, and in some cases, thicker sections under load-bearing walls where certain loads are supported. Other sections are meant to support their own weight, some load from furniture, interior walls, etc. Exposing pipes as has been done is normal, and as long as it's re-cast as expected and
StrukturalAB: Hello! Are you still in need of a konstruktör? I am.