Building Materials and Construction Technology
jakma032: Another thread about load-bearing in a segment-built Norrland house, this somewhat different from those I have seen in other threads here. Moved this spring into a 2-story house from 1971 in the Stockholm area. According to source, the lower floor is carpentered/masoned on site and then a Norrland house ("Bräckevillan") has been placed on top as the upper floor. The house measures about
cpalm: [citat] That it is "normal and natural" is probably true, but the question is whether it corresponds to the quality/sorting you ordered. I have the impression that "Carrara Bianco C" should be white with a certain acceptable level of gray inclusions, but I'm not a marble expert. But your slabs rather feel the other way around, gray with white inclusions.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, but if you need to apply a bit more at a door, I recommend you secure a plaster mesh first, because the vibrations from slamming a door can cause most materials to crack.
hempularen: You need to hire an engineer to calculate it. But I think it will be quite a hefty beam (about 40 - 60 cm high), even with a 6m span. You should probably consider a steel beam instead.
Emmagundstedt: [citat] Can't you place metal washers closest to the outer wall as spacers in a wall screw behind a metal profile?
Jacobbbbbb: The gift that keeps on giving… During the summer, I took the hose and watered the windows again, and it became apparent that water was getting in between the window frame and the sheet metal work. I suspected that the silicone seal wasn't tight enough, so I added more silicone. But now in December rain, I can conclude that it wasn't enough. The next step is to fill soft sealant under the window
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] I would say it's unnecessary as long as there is an air gap..
Mats-S: [citat] You glue the particle boards when laying the floor, so you don't need to glue the noggin before that.
villasuperstar: To close the thread, I put up plywood boards on the wall and attached them to the steel studs (well-invested money to buy a good stud finder!). Then I attached the climbing wall to the plywood and so far it seems stable! It will mostly be children climbing on it, but I can hang on it myself without any problems :).
fribygg: [citat] OK Personally, I wouldn't care about a 5 mm tilt on a quay cladding when the ice pushes the dock; it can easily move by a decimeter or more...
jonaserik: [citat] If it's a fabric-stretched ceiling, it's only secured around the walls. It can look a bit strange when it rises and falls as you open a window. If it's a Baracuda plastic ceiling, it's the same, which was popular a number of years ago. However, if you're unlucky and there's an open flame, the whole ceiling can fall down like a fireball and ignite everything. Fabric ceilings can be
Andreas_eds: [citat] Hi. Planning to do something similar to what you intended. Do you have any tips to share before I start?
janwide: Five-year-old grout didn't cure very well. Have to bite the bullet and spend 150 kronor on new grout. Buuuuäääh 😭
fredand44: I have now tried the new drill. Attached is a video clip for anyone who wants to see. Worked really, really well! Many thanks for all the tips. Best regards, Fredrik [bild]
PeterFalun: I would probably use 95mm actually like about 70mm
Nosq: In principle, it is also attached to the side walls, here is a picture of a corner. The idea was to place studs under the ceiling to support it, tear down the wall, and then attach brackets there at an interval of maybe 50 cm? Then put up a new board. Do I attach the brackets directly to the ceiling?
Niklaspe: [citat] The middle part is an existing garage/economic section where I'm going to open up between, hence the beam! So it will be open between the new and old garage!
MVJK: [citat] Yes, it is a solution, but we don't have crown molding in other parts of the house, and it doesn't really fit in.
Gunnar Gran: To follow up on the thread, I can inform you that I tore down the whole thing all the way to the foundation and patched up the roof. Quite an easy job, took a total of two long days from when I built the scaffold to when I dismantled it. Nice to get rid of the åbäke.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Isn't it enough with regular beams of 45x225 that you cross-brace? It is customary for freely supported wooden beams with spans between 3000 and 4000 mm to be laterally braced in one row in the middle. For larger spans and continuous beams, the floor structure is braced in two rows, usually at the third points. Sheet bracing of nail- or screw-laminated floor chipboard or K-plywood are
daskind: [citat] Thanks for all the wise advice and answers! :)
Johan Gunverth: Happily noted that Biltema has started to restock the mentioned wood screw assortment on the shelves. Not as extensive as when it was in yellow paper packaging, but still a small comfort. Hornbach's assortment is unbeatable in this case and only slightly more expensive.
MultiMan: You must have a supporting post under each rafter if you have the hammarbandet lying down (or whatever it's called here, bärlina?) because such a thin plank lying flat has practically no stiffness at all in that direction. The rafters resting on such a lying board will sag where there are no posts underneath, so you'll end up with a roller coaster.
Mashe1: I used weber wall plaster fine Works well. Otherwise, call weber directly and ask about suitable plaster.
Matti_75: Then you can pump it up if you want and cast a new plint underneath to get a level floor.
Stefan1972: Maybe a middle ground is to just polish everything so that it becomes a smooth surface?