Building Materials and Construction Technology
Stefan1972: Maybe a middle ground is to just polish everything so that it becomes a smooth surface?
janwide: Classic problem in basements. The wall is likely painted with dense plastic paint. There is always moisture in the exterior walls of basements. If the moisture has nowhere to go, it will eventually cause the paint and plaster to detach. This can happen even if the wall is not painted, but it takes longer. There are many threads on how to handle this if you search around on the forum.
Wester92: Hi, does anyone have experience with dalahus with warm foundation from the 80s? Regards, Jacob
Dankerz: This one is quite similar to how it might end up looking, but instead of being open to the left, our rörspis would be there. Image borrowed from the internet. [bild]
Andreas Kneg: Ok so along the sparsely spaced panels, in other words. Should you cut between the short sides to make it easier to spackle? Like the wall? Anything else to consider compared to the wall?
rexpex: [citat] Hello Liljeros and thank you for your input! I will most likely need to connect the docks with a strong steel beam along the short sides to prevent individual movement. There are quite large forces when a wave moves perpendicular to the docks, and I prefer to absorb this force as close to the center as possible. [bild] [bild] Force absorption in the footing vs an external beam The docks
Friteradräka: I was thinking of sanding the floor in the kitchen. However, when I removed all the layers on top, I discovered that there was about 3 square meters missing of the wooden floor in one part of the kitchen. There are particle boards nailed to planks. These are level with the linoleum floor that lies on top of the wooden floor (not asbestos according to tests). 1. Should I tear out the particle
HEM2121: [citat] Go to BKR.se and read or call them tomorrow and ask. Do according to the industry regulations so it is done correctly; if you sell, you have much to gain. I see all too often in house sales, bathroom renovation is done, then it turns out that what has been done is only replacing tiles and nothing more. Even sometimes they have neglected to change the floor drain. Those houses are not
Hybro: Yes, why then a dehumidifier at my place? The house from '82 and up until 2002 had all the exhaust air in the residence directed into the foundation, to release heat. To what benefit, one may ask. Furthermore, dust, grease, and other things were blown down even if most of it was caught in filters. Then the exhaust air was drawn from the foundation up to the attic with an idea of air recovery...
ecceman: Here is a floor plan, hope it tells you something. I have seen a drawing of all the walls, etc., somewhere when we bought the house, can dig it out if it adds anything.
Pierre C: We have just started renovating the stairs and are considering installing an acoustic panel on the wall that the stairs to the upper floor are attached to; therefore, the panel will need to follow the shape of the stairs. Has anyone tried something similar?
Matti_75: No, they are made of MDF which also molds. The best is to plaster the walls and paint with an open paint.
Matti_75: The plastic from the ceiling that has been folded down to seal against the wall plate.
BengtH: And here is the support for "takåsen" [bild]
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Is it just for the workshop or something that's carried around and travels in the car? Also, are they mechanic tools or building/renovating house tools he will have in it?
fribygg: How are the walls constructed? If it is a similar construction to sawdust insulated walls, hopefully, you can add insulation from the attic.
Magnus_Anderssonn: Note: Almost every gym facility has mirror glass with safety film on the back, it is rarely tempered for the above-mentioned reason among others, and a film works just as well. The principle becomes almost like laminated glass but without double (or multiple) glass panes.
måns hagberg: Treetex has both advantages and disadvantages as wall cladding compared to plaster. It insulates, provides softer acoustics, but doesn't offer the same fire protection and is often difficult to attach heavy items to. Behind the treetex, there can be a variety of things depending on the house's age. We had one with lime mortar on timber behind the panels. Sometimes you had to use long screws (75
zarkov: I built a similar wall a couple of years ago to install sliding doors in front of our wardrobes. Back then, I attached the studs using molly plugs and extended screws in both the ceiling and the walls. However, I didn’t need to screw anything into the floor; the rail that the sliding doors run on is attached with double-sided tape. If both ends of the horizontal stud (is it called "syll" even
Testarn: It won't feel solid until you've installed the underfloor and parquet. To make it as solid as possible, I would glue and screw the chipboard onto the joists with staggered joints and then lay parquet on top. To dampen impact noise to the floor below, some form of insulation is recommended between the joists, preferably something dense like rock wool. We have a span of about 380 cm and 45x220 at
joakim_j: But what is the point of the installation layer? Isn't it just as easy to run the electricity through the cellplast? The reason I was thinking of having some surface-mounted is because I was planning to use branddosor for the recessed and it becomes so expensive... so in the workshop, it will be surface-mounted.
jehr: Yes, a gate is planned in the long run... right now I'm thinking of just casting him down and hoping for 15 good years. 💪🏾
kniv: Soft sealant to seal? And if you don't like that look, you can always put crown molding on it.
fribygg: [citat] I would think that a bag of concrete costs 60kr, but it's definitely worth it if it solves the problem...
Nygge72: [citat] Hi, I didn't get further than just thinking about it 😁 So please try it and let me know how it went 😂😂
Kardan79: [citat] As topmount already replied - buy cheap sheet materials and a bunch of suitable crappy mats in a second-hand store/flea market. Regarding the impact on the indoor climate, the effect of your measure depends, among other things, on how much insulating material is removed and the size of the cooling surface. The size of the house in general and heating also matters. It is therefore
worgen: [citat] Yes exactly. The hole visible in the picture is the pipe to the duct. Okay, I didn't know that 😅