Building Materials and Construction Technology
evoline: Yes, the wall will be behind the wardrobe from both sides. There were 2 wardrobes before but no wall in between. Yes, it's a 45mm stud with single plasterboard only. Old studs that can be spliced together more easily, maybe it was common in the past. I don't think it is a wooden board but will double-check. Will check with them how big the wardrobe will be, maybe the wardrobe covers the splice if
anders07: Cutting it in place will never look neat without scraping off the joint and knocking off the piece. If you can remove it whole, you can scrape off the adhesive and cut using a water machine, otherwise, you’ll need to cut a new piece. However, it seems to be a brick bond pattern, so the best-looking option is to knock off all the cut tiles and then continue with the same bond pattern into the
Luc Reiner: Backer rod and acrylic joint/silicone should work. Easier to remove if needed compared to foam sealant.
JK87: Cut away e.g. 10mm of the Gips against the floor, or mount the Gips 10mm from the floor. Buy plastic spackelhörn at e.g. byggmax for around 70kr per 2.5m. On one side, cut away 12mm. Glue to the underside of the Gips, spackle, paint. Done!
Centano: You should also check which fire protection regulations apply if the remaining part of the garage will continue to function as a garage.
neo11: I would say at least 2-5 cm. And all roofs must have a stop for the "raindrop." If you have a stone roof, you saw a groove into the stone so that the drop stops there and then falls to the ground, instead of landing on the wall. If you have a metal roof, the drop stops on the drip edge.
Unikt namn: [citat] But now it will be both snow load plus a veranda construction +ramp + people that it has to support.
Matti_75: Steel studs are never load-bearing. They do not have the strength to carry any load.
BirgitS: Ask some firms to provide a quote. They should first conduct a site visit, and then you can discuss different options with them to determine what is best.
CissiLR: [citat] Thanks! I thought it was something like that which is needed. It's just the joints that need to be removed. Then a lot of spackling. 👍🏻
Stefan L: Removed the fuse box and it shows that it is a Vakominte Waco
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Gypsum and moisture are not ideal; with that said, it's better with cement-based products.
Kristoffer Clasén: [citat] Late to the party here... Yes, I saw that "wallribbon" has tracks for their panels, which would have been super convenient for the installation, clearly. It weighs in favor of using them instead of venö panels (let's pretend they're equally nice in real life and focus on the technical aspects...). I'm wondering if something similar could be achieved with DIY solutions on the venö panel
BirgitS: [citat] It's probably mortar between the blocks. It's usually inappropriate to try to attach something to the mortar. However, it should be possible to attach something to the leca blocks (if that's what it is).
Stubai: A regular right- or left-handed scissors works excellently. It is admittedly more efficient to cut with a pelican, but an ordinary pattern scissor suffices since there are no longer lengths to be cut.
Stubai: Spontaneously, it sounds like a cardboard roof is going to be laid, hence the use of cardboard screws. Probably the ts also needs foot flashing and a peephole hatch cover, they are usually made of metal.
neo11: Then the plaster just hangs in the net, after 6 months - a couple of years it cracks. And you have to redo everything. Sand off the paint and plaster. Apply fix and plaster. These are the only options, but if you apply fix, you can't paint with silicate. But if you don’t have any moisture problems, it doesn’t matter.
jonaserik: The pinnväggen just stands straight up, you might need to like or modify some of the pinnar, fall protection from the stairs. EDIT If the pinnar are attached to the stairs and they are removed, there can be flex and creaking, but there are solutions for that.
Penten: Hello When plastering over the facade brick from 1955, perhaps the air gap inside the wall where I've installed the large windows is no longer needed? I have kept the air gap on all other walls of the house, but by the large windows, I removed the black wind barrier that was between the brick and the old wooden studs where there was a gap of 3 cm. What do you think, is it okay to skip the air gap
BirgitS: Not likely that it is load-bearing since it looks like the rest of that wall has been demolished earlier without installing a beam in the ceiling. But no guarantees.
Bengt65: [citat] I also have tretex boards with a small air gap behind. If you attach 45 studs and insulate, then drywall. How does it affect the risk of mold etc. with natural ventilation in the house, open vents, waterborne heating?
Kane: [citat] Probably not. But create your own thread on this since your house is not the same as the thread starter's.
L Jan: [citat] Just supplemented something from Bauhaus, for the floor. They have for walls too.
Christoffer Hilmersson: Thank you for the response!