Building Materials and Construction Technology
JOW: You can have a slope on the roof/membrane, and then build a straight terrace on top.
Johan Gunverth: Some kind of polyethylene film is sufficient, for example, covering plastic or vapor barrier film. The important thing is that it is made of polyethylene. Cling film should also work.
Ola78: You can check Moelven's website, they have a design program for glulam beams. Start there and see if you find anything useful. Here is the link: http://www.moelven.com/se/Produkter-och-tjanster/Limtra/lagerbalksprogram/
Jan-Å: I made the roof and walls, with a beam placed along the edge of the basement stairs supporting the beams with a support line on top, a support line attached to the wall, with the same slope as the house roof, raw board-tarpaulin-sheet metal. Built a door with the same panel as the walls, turned out very functional and several have said it also looks nice :) A horizontal door sounds heavy,
husbåt: hi I've been working on designing my houseboat for quite some time now, and it's not long before the construction begins. I've divided it into two parts, with the first being the construction of the ground floor. I'll add the second floor later when I have more money. That's why there are two posts standing in the model :P So I'm wondering what you think? My wall construction is: outermost:
Marcus J: [citat] Where do you think I can find those? Not entirely sure what you mean. You don't mean locknut?
Dalabyggare: Hello I am working on the construction of a new garage. On top of the garage, I am building an upper floor that will serve as storage space, etc. To create good space on the upper floor, I am using glulam beams in the roof construction. The joists for the upper floor will rest on the outer walls plus a load-bearing beam in the middle of the house. The load-bearing beam will be 10 meters long and
gt_anders: Hello all experts and DIY enthusiasts :) I am planning to install a sedum roof on a low-pitched shed roof with a 6° slope. I would appreciate some help with the following questions. 1. The estimated weight of the sedum roof is approximately 50kg/sqm with a span of 4 meters. What size and spacing should the rafters be? Currently, there are 150x50 rafters with 850mm spacing, and it would be great
cederbusch: Yesterday, I did as I planned. I found some old tongue and groove planks in the same size that a previous owner had the presence of mind to leave behind. I rebuilt the wall where the door had been. I had to complete the last 14 cm with two 45x70 studs. Then I cut away the "pillar" without any incidents. It didn't feel like it was load-bearing, and the wall I built wasn't pinched either, so maybe
pbengtsson: Take out the smygarna... http://www.byggahus.se/forum/verktyg-maskiner-fordon/151331-bekaennelse-om-okunskap-en-uppenbarelse-av-tumstockens-anvaendande.html
Yrrol: I made a provisional example of how I was considering alternatively mounting the musbanden... Now both the wall piece and the rail are quite skewed... and the windproof fabric that is visible is not the same as the thick and stiff one that is at the bottom as a wind barrier. The wind barrier is pressed between the inner wall and the panel... if I stick between the musbandet, it sits somewhat
The Tor: I hope to be able to show you a finished kitchen eventually. It's in the summer cottage that we're fixing it, so it's just some weekend work now and then. Thanks for all the help!
Larsa: [citat] It's been a while since I bought, but as I remember it, these were much cheaper (like half, around 20 SEK/m). But these are moldings with knots etc. (B-quality)
mange1977: Just received a building permit for a glass section measuring 260x210cm in an outer wall, and my question is how strong a reinforcement I need and what it should look like? The house was built in 1965 with 1.5 floors, and the outer walls are about 25cm thick with exterior plaster. A friend who works a lot with steel beams has come up with a proposal that includes double L-beams with a material
myrstack: I will try to hunt down hopefully cheaper screws and bits at Biltema! I am also attaching some pictures for archiving where you can see how I have chosen to place the screws. As you can see, I will attempt to leave the carpet (which is extremely well-fixed) in place on the step when I install the renovation kits. However, since I was a bit uncertain about how tightly the carpet was in all areas,
hokanp: Clearly slab on ground. You get rid of all the problems that come with a crawl space foundation.
Kristina J: No matter how much I polish with different products on our marble table, there are still rings and stains that are visible in certain conditions. Once I had the entire surface sanded, but I can't do that regularly. Does anyone have a tip?
m5patrik: How nice, now I can breathe a little easier. I was starting to worry that I had thought wrong... How did you solve going around corners? Did you just fasten the pipe or did you use a cold bending fixture? Is this pipe with a protective tube that you've used? I thought the cold bending fixture for pipe-in-pipe (25mm) took up too much space to fit in a 45mm wall, but maybe it’s not needed?
Lycksta: Thanks, it's horizontal paneling and it won't matter if it's visible, so I'll see how I fix it up. Reciprocating saw? Might need to remove them somehow =) It was the sheathing I was most concerned about right now so thanks... I'll sort it out soon...
mrVoodoo: I would almost guess that it would be cheaper with bruk as well, what does a sack go for at byggmax? 40-50kr? In terms of bruk, I would probably go for C-bruk, unless you are certain that the walls are newer/of harder bruk.
pbengtsson: You will manage ex on 145x45, but it's a little too small for insulation, so go with the dimensions you intended to insulate.
cederbusch: This became a monologue thread, but I have to show how the finished result turned out. I know that I at least appreciate seeing pictures of finished projects.
callel: That's what I was thinking too, but because of a jungle of VP-rör, I ended up planing off 2-3mm from the glespanelen instead this morning.
på landet: [citat] Surely you can get a cat through an inspection hatch of 150x150mm :D, the question is just how to get it out again :x [citat] Yes, that's exactly what I've been looking at. So the standard for a plumbing inspection hatch is around 400*X? Best regards, //H
Kave: Ok. What do you think about e.g. 2cm Cellplast for some better insulating effect and then plasterboard on that? You're not really supposed to insulate on the inside.
lindqvist71: Aha, now I see how you do it. But my crossbars fit into the standing 70x45, so I can't let the crossbar go into the post because then it would be so different from the rest of the railing. But I'll keep it in mind for the next time I have angled corners. So I start with the crossbar all the way between the posts. But my railing turned out completely okay anyway.
psv79: Hello, I am planning to pour about 5 cm of concrete on an existing concrete slab. There used to be tar paper on this surface. After the tar paper is removed, a very thin film of adhesive remains. Can I pour concrete on this or do I need to grind off the remnants? Grateful for your response!
gadu^: Well, mentally I've decided on 6mm MDF. But should one build up with small pieces to the same level as the floor and place the MDF edge-to-edge on top of the frame, or should one build out 6mm beyond the frame so the MDF ends up underneath? Which looks best?
prototypen: Plywood is a great material to have behind drywall, so much easier to put things up. Frame as thin as possible to get a straight wall. (the studs will vary + you can place pieces of masonite/plywood/cardboard to make it straight) Protte
Johan Gunverth: I came up with the exact same solution ten years ago when I built my dad's porch bridge and have adopted this for my own bridge. I can attest that it has worked very well. Very stable and easy to take apart with a little help from a crowbar. My blocks are small pieces of oak that are urethane-glued and countersunk screwed to the posts. I also have woodworking on top that is attached in the same