Building Materials and Construction Technology
Johan Gunverth: It is probably the case that the bundle of rough-sawn wood was steel banded during drying, and the band compressed the wood on the outer plank.
Ola78: The way you are thinking of having only the part necessary for just the load should work, but to be safe, contact a structural engineer; other things might be affected if you do it this way. There might be a way, but I don't know if it's feasible, but in multi-family buildings with basement foundation walls and then facade bricks, I believe there is a reinforcement iron, like an angle roughly,
sevilla: Found it now, this is the one I was thinking of: http://www.novatech.nu/Novatech-367.aspx?ProductID=PROD501 It should work to fill gaps between the threshold and the floor I suppose? However, it is only available in oak, not walnut.
vojma: [citat] Stop, stop!!! If you're not going to keep them yourself, I'll happily pick them up if you live within 10 miles from Piteå
AXS: A shame to remove, I thought it was nice! At least save one. You can always build on to get a table or something similar. Fun to save for the future.
Slyngel: Have I asked the question wrong, or is there really no one who has any experience of something similar??? JW
BigGitt: And tighten with something like Biltema straps!
The Tor: We have widened a doorway, and at the top of the new opening, there is a 120mm beam to support it. There is a gap (about 5 mm) between the beam and the Treetex wall above that cannot be covered with a trim, so instead, I would need to fill it with something. I've been advised on Husfix? Or would filler work, and if so, what type? Ps. We will be putting plasterboard on one side of the wall, but
cust3000: :) [citat] Now, the dispute was about whether to use factor 10 or 9.82, and that was made clear at the end of the dispute. Enough said about this.
MaZtoR: Screw in the joint so it's easier to fix if you don't want it there anymore. Hooks that are meant for gutters are often seen used as ladder holders on garage walls. Looks quite okay to me, but you can't hang much more on them.
kalubah: Hmm, okay a good reason to keep the råspont that is on the turf today. On the other hand, I risk getting an air gap between the types of insulation, which might not be so successful. I saw a typo in my list - here's how it looks: New convection-tight wind barrier Existing Double råspont with felt in between Existing 200mm turf Existing råspont (possibly I could manage to remove this and then
nygård: Hello! Recently bought floorboards 33 mm. I thought you should lay them alternately regarding the original core position. Discovered that the tongue and groove were offset. Contacted the planing mill who claimed it should be that way. Then you can't alternate regarding the core position. Does anyone know anything about this?
Lagavulin: Interesting! I believe many of the low points will be evened out when you screw your 28mm floor. Few things can withstand the tensions of screwing. But plane off the peaks as best as you can. Good luck / Lagavulin
imported_jo: I agree that regular roofing sheet metal has a higher noise level in the rain, but the sheet metal I put on the cabin last year is this sandstone-coated roofing sheet metal from Planja. You can barely hear anything during a heavy downpour. Additionally, you avoid those ugly snow guards. Since the sheet metal is sand-coated, the snow stays in place and can't really slide... With extreme amounts of
Tocke: ...even though molly is good! Had the same problem when I lived in an apartment long ago... but I built a type of trellis with planed wood. Two horizontal pieces the same width as the hat rack and then vertical ones that went almost from the ceiling all the way down to the floor. Whitewashed it... turned out quite okay. So it took the load from the hat rack... just screwed the trellis itself up
på landet: Here are some sketches. Unfortunately, I don't have a good drawing program so they are poor power points, but hopefully, they give a clearer picture of what I need help with :) Image A: Cross-section of the construction with roof trusses, new interior wall Image B: Example of the loft's floor structure Image C: Overview floor plan of the room under the loft. And some adjustments on the
psv79: Hi, I have added 18 m2 to my house. These 18 m2 are located above the basement and were previously a patio, i.e. a concrete slab on top of the basement roof. This concrete slab has a slope, which is causing some issues for me. The area measures 5.4 x 3.3 meters. Where the slope is the "shallowest," I have 5 cm to work with, and where it is the "deepest," 10 cm. I was thinking of using the Uponor
eriobe: No, there's nothing dangerous about the paint not soaking in, but it might become streaky. If you paint once before, you fix that problem. Is it possible to glue knots in place? Well, it should work if you’re lucky enough to have perfectly round holes that have been created.
Mattias_Jo1: Hello, My garage floor right where the garage door closes has a gap of about 1 meter under the door lip because the floor appears to be approximately 1 cm lower. Is it better to use concrete filler or something else? Should I do anything to the floor before applying the filler, like making it uneven or priming it?
Mats: That's how it was done in the past, using a piece of board as a scab instead of metal plates. I used formplyfa myself for some trusses a while ago, but they were entirely home-built without any structural calculations or anything.
valthornet: I was planning to make two garage doors using the edge-gluing with staggered joints method that I read about in the forum. I'm unsure about the material for the panels, outside and inside. It is an unheated garage. Is 12mm K-plywood the right choice? Is there a better material? What kind of hinges should one choose, strap or lift-off?
maco1: Hello, we are in the middle of the construction process of our stone house (1-story) which is being built in siporex (Ytong), including the interior walls, and right now we are deciding on what to do with the interior walls. As we understand, there are 3 options we can consider: 1. Use Knauf MP75 gypsum plaster sprayed on with a machine and then leveled with a long board. This gives you a
hyweu: That was unfortunate. On the other hand, it also explains why the price was so interesting ;) Thanks for the quick response!
El_-micke: if you use regular 22mm chipboard at the ends and grooved boards in between and then cut grooves yourself with a hand router, it will probably be the most cost-effective option...because it's the turnboards that incur the biggest cost
gluecifer: Do you think there's any advantage to running a dehumidifier before I unpack the packages with pine flooring and screw it? I mean, they should stay inside for a few days regardless, but can you pull more moisture out of the flooring with a dehumidifier before I lay it down? My idea is to get as much out as possible before autumn and winter come with drier air. Or is it unnecessary?
Forrest: Yay, I now have a calculator where these functions have been mastered. d^_^b Hehe... with your help, I might even become a math professor in the construction forum. Thank you for your patience.
Crickster: If I take it down, then I remove the insulation they provide, but maybe it's not much anyway... I'm not really sure. I've heard it's like 3 plasterboards. Of course, it will be difficult to put things up on the Trextex as well because there is a gap between the Tretex and the concrete wall... or is there a good way to do it? If I instead put up wallpaper, I need some good solution for this.