Building Materials and Construction Technology
WaldenWoods: As long as it doesn't smell like mold, it should be okay as you describe.
Yrrol: I have had the wood lying outside under plastic. Brought in a board, sawed it, and screwed it up against the ceiling. And now I noticed that it looks slightly sooty and that it was indeed damp... Is this something to worry about, or should I bother with applying anti-mold treatment?
Yrrol: You can see in my picture, this is exactly how you can force a drywall between spars and inner wall... Would you have extended the drywall all the way or stopped at the wall, then placed a new board on the other side... kind of silly to start fixing if the intention is to have boards all the way...
zingo: Have a split-level house. The windows are terribly small (narrow, horizontal) in certain ground floor rooms. Are the odds high that it's possible to cut larger holes in the concrete to install bigger windows, or is it not recommended? A lot of work? How do you do it?
gluecifer: I have ripped out all the junk from our cold basement which was quite damp, and installed a dehumidifier so now it feels fresher. I'm also in the process of tearing down the old basement ceiling since it was in poor condition + removing all the sawdust that served as insulation. So I'm planning to completely redo it. My question is what type of ceiling I should have; in the crawl space, I have
Ewald: The U-value of the light construction was 0.318 W/m²K and the U-value of the heavy construction was 0.33 W/m²K. The energy consumption at each location was 4452 kWh for the respective period and house with the light construction and 4206 kWh with the heavy one. Typically, however, the U-value is crucial for energy consumption. Heat storage capacity often also plays an important role.
oskis 123: Rot is probably not a major risk if it can dry out later. However, one might wonder what happens when the wood swells and therefore changes shape? Angles, measurements, and distances and such.
_bystrom_: My house has CC120 between the rafters and CC40 for the battens, which has not resulted in any bulges, etc.
Crebel: It's probably best to ask a designer about that. In the simplified two-dimensional world consisting of lines, dots, and arrows that I drew up, it's quite worse with an outer wall made of log timber, but in the real world you could certainly be right. (My note about old houses with massive wooden walls was about the solution with a beam in the ridge and, as mentioned, was just an assumption!)
Jan-Å: I put windbreak fabric on the garage last year, it's very easy if you are two people - one unrolls the fabric and the other attaches it. I used an electric staple gun and will never use felt, asfaboard, etc. after trying the fabric. I don't remember the brand, but it was green/white and kept the insulation dry during an unexpected rain shower as well.
Jan-Å: Both constructions work well? if you place platon as you should with ventilation in the baseboards. We have laminate flooring on foam boards with a platon membrane underneath, with waterborne underfloor heating in the foam. Works excellently but we had no moisture at all in our slab when we checked it, although. Tiles, as you wrote, are cold to walk on, but so is laminate without underfloor
Mats: Tape? There is special tape for moisture barriers and then it should be quite a significant overlap (can't remember exactly right now)
serramanna: After building a freestanding wall, I have some mortar left over. Is it possible to use Gullex Murbruk M 2.5 for plastering the wall as well? :)
Returia: Nacka byggnadsvård and Resin wood are two companies near Sthlm.
jawen: Fill in with concrete putty (Combimix) and treat the entire balcony with 2 flowing coats of concrete sealer EX by Combimix, then most of the water will run off and not seep through the balcony. Best regards, Jawen
jawen: It should be facing downwards, i.e., the smooth side towards the "moisture." Vira-side is the name of the other side which is a little rough, it is more sensitive to absorbing moisture and causes the sheet to warp more easily. Best regards, Jawen
Stefan Tall: [citat] OK, it is now also an "official" construction solution. It also improves the overall insulation of the construction. I agree that often where this material is cast, you see a scattering of EPS pellets, but it can be avoided if you handle it neatly. When we had moisture damage in the old apartment, the insurance company's builders didn't leave a single EPS grain behind despite casting
Ola78: Yes, it almost looks like it is kolstybb. According to NE, kolstybb is: finely divided coal, mixed with sand, clay, and tar. Kolstybb was originally used to cover charcoal piles and later used for example to provide a non-slip surface on running tracks. It's not at all uncommon to have it in the trossbotten, that's how it is in our house when I've torn up the floor. I don't think it's
Mats: 7X2.50 traveled we two men without problems so 11 meters is definitely doable. We built the entire block on the ground and attached sill bands as well. Cross-measuring is, as mentioned, important and when it's good, set a number of braces that lock the block before you lift it. A tip is to recess a beam vertically just under the wall plate. Screwed together with just the wall plate, you get a
dodo76: Hello! We have just bought a townhouse. A two-story house where the outer wall of the upper floor is set back by two meters. It is a wooden townhouse from '78. In the living room on the ground floor, there is a wall. We wanted to remove as much of it as possible. Now that the plaster is gone, a thick glulam beam is visible at the end of the wall. Directly above this is the outer wall of the upper
Matti_75: Why not insulate all the way down? Then you'll have a warm attic.
zsimpey: if more than half of the basement is underground, you should not have plastic, this is so the wall can breathe. then you should have a diffusion-open wind barrier. otherwise, it's ok as the wall can air out into the open. I would tear it up unless it is, for example, a sutteränghus.
cem77: Is it pine? If so, it is probably blue-stained. It is a fungus that attacks the sapwood if the timber is harvested and stored as whole logs for too long during the wrong season. It can also develop after sawing when it is dried in the lumber yard. It is not directly dangerous but has an increased ability to absorb moisture. [bild] [bild]
Fixar_Krille: The brochure's dimensions are good. If you set up studs along the boards, you need to have a stud under each joint cc28, but if it's across, cc60 is sufficient. I usually screw them up with drywall screws.
på landet: It all depends on what type of construction you plan to have on the inside, horizontal or vertical paneling or boards. We have horizontal paneling (without a sparse panel) and have 215mm insulation, 120cc on the rafters, and we put up the plastic for the first row with a temporary board/batten to prevent sagging. Then we installed insulation, 120mm + 95mm, in one to two rows (think upward) and
vini: I am looking for stainless steel light switches with a diode that lights up when the switch is off. They used to be available at a company called Decofrost Interiör in Svalöv, but they seem to have disappeared from the face of the earth. Does anyone know where they can be found?
gizmokatten: Hello, I am a real amateur wondering about a drainage pipe that runs from the ceiling to the floor in the apartment and I want to enclose it... it stands with a concrete wall behind it. What thickness of studs should I use and how should I attach it? Ideally, I would prefer not to attach it to the concrete floor. Then I was thinking of covering it with plasterboard.
evoline: OK, seems like glespanel will be good, a bit wider and thicker. Thank you so much for all the help.
BigGitt: Then there is a problem. They helped me a lot.
