Building Materials and Construction Technology
J.B.: Yes, it is even easier. I used plugs because I have Leca, which is not the most installation-friendly material.
jhenrikj: [citat] Now, it’s not the garage you should fireproof but neighboring buildings. The fire rating is to limit spread (gypsum burns poorly). Or do you think that if the garage starts burning, the residential house should just burn down too? Edit: That is, the fire protection is built in the garage, but not so that it won't burn down.
mikaelbe: Mortar B or C, http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40587-vilken-sorts-murbruk-foer-att-reparera-skorsten.html
Nusnäs: I have an old stone outdoor staircase (60-70 years old) made of sandstone that has started to loosen at the joints and some steps have come loose. My question is - what is most suitable to repair the staircase with? Mortar - concrete - other suitable joint compound? Grateful for tips.
Yrrol: not if it's that special one that tastes bitter. anticimex uses it and there's someone on the internet selling them.. unfortunately, you need odd tools to use the tubes
Ola78: Agree with forbo, better to use whole lengths and kortlingar to stiffen the whole thing. You should probably use 45*95 to ensure the wall doesn't become too weak when it gets that tall.
jivanoff: I had the exact same problem in my rec room, which I fixed with a Nivell floor. The hardest part was removing the joists, or rather, the joists that hadn't rotted away. In this floor, I also installed ventilation, so now it should be more resistant to deterioration! But if you don't have major moisture problems, you can build the Nivell floor with "natural draft" by leaving a small air gap
The Tor: Valter: Please start your own thread with your questions so I won't receive reminders via email when someone answers your questions. Thanks! :)
prototypen: Rain and snow are not the problem. When there is snow on the roof and it becomes warm and more humid in early spring, the moisture condenses on the underside of the metal/tiles. Yes, I have a garage with that small construction flaw and it drips quite a bit in some places. Protte
flygrc: You have chosen brick and aluminum-clad windows to be maintenance-free? Then why do you want a wooden strip that needs painting? I would have used metal sheeting with screws or pop rivets in the aluminum cladding.
Jan-Å: As I said, not exactly an expert :) but the plastic prevents moisture from migrating out of the house and when it is not heated, the temperature differences during especially spring and fall become so large that the ventilation cannot handle the condensation that forms. There will be moisture on the wall that molds.
TorOdd: Lifting this old thread as we have a similar problem. We had help setting up the framework for the garage, and window openings were placed according to the blueprint from the house supplier. When the roof trusses arrived and were installed, it turned out that the trusses ended up right over the windows instead of beside them as apparently intended. Now we're wondering if we need to move the
BigGitt: Strange. Before, there was no problem with buying...
mia31: Hi Fröberg, I'm a bit curious about Isorast, as we are deciding whether to build with them in Jönköping. I have followed your posts and understand that you are very satisfied with the collaboration. But I'm curious about how you solved the moisture problems, as it sounded a bit scary that the house wasn't sealed. Is Birger helpful when problems arise, or how is it handled? Please write a
verktygsgurun: Sikaflex or Bostik Multifog are suitable for the purpose as they are paintable and available in several colors.
Mats Lj: Assumes that the drawing has been followed and the column has been built in bond with the basement exterior wall. The two walls to the right (boiler room walls?) have the same function as the column, which is to withstand earth pressure. A concrete slab with a span of 3.6m does not need any supporting braces from above. One solution would be to demolish the retrofitted wall and build a wall with,
yens: I am helping a good friend with replacing the drywall on his house. It's a single-stage sealed house where, after many long negotiations with the house supplier, they have come up with a solution where they cover the whole facade and part of the drywall replacement underneath, while the homeowner is responsible for the rest of the drywall replacement. We are switching from regular exterior
Willy Sangwill: My idea was to cover the truss with insulation and wall panels; you have to build onto the truss to make it wider. In my previous post, the idea was to attach the floor joists to the truss-wall and laminated timber at the ridge. This way, you avoid altering the outer wall, resulting in a more stable floor structure. For the opening at the door, construction timber 45x220 is sufficient. Probably
Mats Fröberg: Thank you very much for the help! Will look and think.
Crebel: Standing panel with battens does not indeed have the same problem with a vertical air gap as facade standing panel. If you don't want to use under-nailing, can't you set the 95 along the roof angle on top of the regular battens (which you don't allow to reach all the way to the roof angle, but make them just over a centimeter shorter)?
martin22sthlm: it really means nothing, but sure. I have a wooden deck built in the early 70s on the property that is still in excellent condition, oiled every three years or so (not more often, at least). The problem is that high-quality timber is more expensive than pressure-treated wood. However, it's worth considering that the ventilation around the deck must be good/very good for it to work. The deck in
jeffkan: I am going to plaster a "storage bunker" that is 17 square meters, where the surface is of a coarser concrete. I know there is a specific name for the concrete but I can't think of it right now. But I am also considering plastering 1 cm and have followed the calculation that hokanp gave. (I am buying the same bag as fredand44) 170 liters/13 = 13.07.. So at least 13 bags are required for my
Suhagg: I have bought a small cabin that has been without roof tiles for some time. The roofing felt has let water through in some places, which has caused the insulation in some areas to become wet and it has been like this for about 5 years. I have started tearing this down and on the interior ceiling there are a couple of spots with a few boards that are almost completely black. I have torn this out
_chrille_: Hello! I have a chimney with a lot of frost damage (brick) that has flaked off, etc. Question 1: Can I use regular mortar to fill in and repair these holes/pieces that have fallen off... I am considering encapsulating it in metal in the future. Question 2: When repairing joints that are bad, a bit of mortar or whatever I use is bound to get on the brick... How do you remove that? I've been
Fasting65: Spontaneously, I might NOT have poured a slab on the wooden joists. Self-leveling compound: 75 kg? Insert: 300 kg Lecablock: 20 pcs * 20 kilos = 400 kg? Mortar: 100 kg? Plaster: 200 kg? You quickly reach an impressive load. Do you have a basement underneath, or what does the joist rest on? We have installed a stove. We have wooden joists with a basement underneath. We made a support change, i.e.,
ThomasN: Hello! We submitted an application for a building permit for our '40s funkis-style house. We want to change and relocate windows + plaster the facade. Unfortunately, we (not yet by the building committee) received a rejection because the city's museums commented that the house should be preserved (according to PBL 3 chapter 12§). This will be contested to the bitter end, but I am considering
bassetasse: [citat] Unfortunately, it's more than just for appearance. One at eight kilos (overweight then, huh..) and one at 6 kilos (picture without all kilos first and then with all the kilos..., unfortunately the pictures are unclear).
Ola78: I must also apologize to the TS, but it has been interesting to share some knowledge anyway. Thank you and good night everyone, lots to do at work, starting early tomorrow with walking the dog :D and then work.
Ola78: Yes, the OSB is the board you are describing, most people think it is better than chipboard, including myself, check here http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup1spalt.aspx?id= and here http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oriented_strand_board, so you might get some more info.
