Personally, I'm in the same situation and chose the local XL Bygg company. I bought moldings and trims for several thousands of kronor, so I got a pretty good discount... It was Södra, formerly Gapro, range of products they sold.
When my girlfriend and I were looking at different models and widths of the wood, we reasoned that these parts aren't something you replace often, so it's important to choose what you really want, even if it costs a bit extra. We chose between 90 mm and 120 mm height for the baseboards, but went with 120 mm because we have high ceilings and were worried it would look "insignificant" otherwise. And now that the baseboards are up (in the rooms that are finished so far), I can only say that we made the right choice! It was worth the extra money! However, we bought unfinished wood and painted it ourselves to save some money! But with a house of 180 m2, it's quite a few meters...
If anyone has a good trick for mitering colonial moldings to make it look nice, tips are greatly appreciated!
When my girlfriend and I were looking at different models and widths of the wood, we reasoned that these parts aren't something you replace often, so it's important to choose what you really want, even if it costs a bit extra. We chose between 90 mm and 120 mm height for the baseboards, but went with 120 mm because we have high ceilings and were worried it would look "insignificant" otherwise. And now that the baseboards are up (in the rooms that are finished so far), I can only say that we made the right choice! It was worth the extra money! However, we bought unfinished wood and painted it ourselves to save some money! But with a house of 180 m2, it's quite a few meters...
If anyone has a good trick for mitering colonial moldings to make it look nice, tips are greatly appreciated!
At Beijer, they have classic style moldings that are 21mm thick (I believe 21x95 & 21x120 are available). These are knotty and require some prep work and painting to look nice, but they are cheap. They are essentially identical to the original moldings in my house from 1907, so I have used these. However, their "standard" 12mm knot-free classic molding is very expensive.....
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
Maveric77:
To miter a Crown molding:
For the first baseboard, cut it straight and set it flush against the first wall. No mitering.
Now saw a sample piece, like a 10 cm long piece of molding.
Next molding: Trace the crown mold pattern from the sample piece onto the molding. Follow this: The molding that will go on the wall lies on the floor with the "front side" up. Stand (hold) the sample piece on its edge at the short end that will join the molding already in place. Trace with a drafting pencil (thin graphite). Cut along the line with the jigsaw.
Test your cutout to see if it fits "like a puzzle piece" into the pattern (use the sample piece).
Often you'll need to adjust the cut slightly the first few times.
NOTE It doesn't have to be PERFECT. Just reasonably good.
Cut the other end straight so the molding is the correct length.
Install. Start by filling the corner generously with latex caulk.
Continue around the room this way.
Installation: All screws should be countersunk, often it can be better if you pre-drill the molding. The screws are then filled with carpenter's putty. Sand and touch up the putty. Paint everything. In advance, you can prime + do one coat, then you only need to do one coat in place.
Reply if you need pictures for this perhaps not completely easy instruction...
To miter a Crown molding:
For the first baseboard, cut it straight and set it flush against the first wall. No mitering.
Now saw a sample piece, like a 10 cm long piece of molding.
Next molding: Trace the crown mold pattern from the sample piece onto the molding. Follow this: The molding that will go on the wall lies on the floor with the "front side" up. Stand (hold) the sample piece on its edge at the short end that will join the molding already in place. Trace with a drafting pencil (thin graphite). Cut along the line with the jigsaw.
Test your cutout to see if it fits "like a puzzle piece" into the pattern (use the sample piece).
Often you'll need to adjust the cut slightly the first few times.
NOTE It doesn't have to be PERFECT. Just reasonably good.
Cut the other end straight so the molding is the correct length.
Install. Start by filling the corner generously with latex caulk.
Continue around the room this way.
Installation: All screws should be countersunk, often it can be better if you pre-drill the molding. The screws are then filled with carpenter's putty. Sand and touch up the putty. Paint everything. In advance, you can prime + do one coat, then you only need to do one coat in place.
Reply if you need pictures for this perhaps not completely easy instruction...
@Niclas Jonsson
Thanks for the tip! I think I understand what you mean! So, jigsaw or coping saw as a tool instead of a miter saw!
The rooms that I'm now finished with, I have mitered in the "usual" way and (un)successfully get a gap right at the recess on the molding every time. It will have to be over-paintable soft sealant... Acrylic or what is best?
However, I have done exactly as you wrote otherwise, primed and painted once to then finish coat and patch nail holes and screw holes when they are in place!
Thanks for the tip! I think I understand what you mean!
So, jigsaw or coping saw as a tool instead of a miter saw!The rooms that I'm now finished with, I have mitered in the "usual" way and (un)successfully get a gap right at the recess on the molding every time. It will have to be over-paintable soft sealant... Acrylic or what is best?
However, I have done exactly as you wrote otherwise, primed and painted once to then finish coat and patch nail holes and screw holes when they are in place!
Member
· Västra Götalands Län
· 529 posts
Lovely with people who understand that moldings, especially more grand models like allmoge, should always be painted on site so that all screws are concealed! It's too dreary when visiting people who've bought rather expensive factory-painted moldings and mounted them with big ugly screws, and then you have to say..."oh how nice..."
Acrylic or latex caulk doesn't matter here, cheap (10 kr-junk) works fine for this.
And one more thing (but you probably already knew this). If you need to splice along the length, make the joint mitered, about 30 degrees. This joint is glued with wood glue during installation.
Acrylic or latex caulk doesn't matter here, cheap (10 kr-junk) works fine for this.
And one more thing (but you probably already knew this). If you need to splice along the length, make the joint mitered, about 30 degrees. This joint is glued with wood glue during installation.